I have a chance to buy a fairly good 250 less bar and chain. I'm wondering what would be a good price to offer, the fellow says he had it running some time ago, it's been sitting in a shed ever since.
McCulloch Chain Saws
- Thread starter Bruce Hopf
- Start date
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gmax
Addicted to ArboristSite
Yes it looks to running well, here's my Super 250,
[video=youtube;Nv4ALEQ5TC0]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nv4ALEQ5TC0[/video]
ozflea
Good ol' BP Zoom 25-1
Yours sounds good too Gmax nuthin' like the bellow of a good Mac ....................
McBob.
Thought you might like some pictures of the 5-49 tear down.
We got it to pop on a prime and tried it with the diaphragm installed but it just floods out.
We got it to pop on a prime and tried it with the diaphragm installed but it just floods out.
ap jr. - I generally would not go over $50 for one of the older saws unless it was either very good condition or something exceptional for the collection. A nice clean saw in good running condition might be worth $100 if you just had to have one.
Mark
Mark
OldDeadWood
ArboristSite Operative
Wendell
Keep the pictures comming.
ODW
Keep the pictures comming.
ODW
Possible, yes. Practical, absolutely not.
cpr
Addicted to ArboristSite
Still buckin' against this D44. I have hot spark at the plug, no sheared key to affect timing and fuel. Still no worky. Anyone with a pushrod points Mac care to verify for me if it's normal to observe spark jumping the points breaking? I'm too darn tired to check my Super 44 for this phenomenon... 
Have a chance to buy a 250 fairly cheap, are they a desireable saw? I already have a 1-40 and a 1-42. Is a 250 similar?
homelitejim
Full of Scrap
I got the ok from my machinist friend on working up a cylinder and piston for the 10-100X, I will have to come up with another 82cc crank, rod, cylinder, and piston so he can scan them into his computer and start writing the program for the CNC. If we are to use a 82cc cylinder we will have to send it out for chroming after having it bored out as he can not do this. He will try to keep the piston to a common size like 56mm and make the ring groves a standard size so rings will be readily available. He works with both steel and aluminum so he can also make the rod and pins if needed. I told him we needed to keep the price down under a certain amount but wasn't sure how much, if he is willing to go into production, the price would determine whether or not he would make more than one, if it works of course. That is all I have for now, my email is at my home page which can be accessed by clicking on my screen name. Who ever would like more info please contact me this way or through FB as I am not a sponsor and this would probably break the rules here. I will be starting a new group on FB come and join in.
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homelitejim
Full of Scrap
A standard 250 is very similar to your 1-40 and 1-42, if the price is right(under$50) I would get it, otherwise wait and save up for the Super 250.
RandyMac
Stiff Member
I have those parts, they will need to be cleaned up. Does it matter that they were worn?
It's possible this is a Super 250, I only got a glance at it while I was looking at some other saws. I can go back this week and look again. It is under $50.
homelitejim
Full of Scrap
apj - A standard 250 that is fresh will put any 1-4X saw or the 200 to shame. The porting on the 250 was more aggressive including a three hole exhaust where most of the others only had two holes opened up. McC (Scott Mueller) has a stock 250 that routinely won the vintage 5 In³ (80 cc) and under competition at Baraboo until last year anyway.
The Super 250 is another notch above the standard 250 but most were 87 cc compare to the 80 cc 250, except of course for some early models. McCulloch did like to mix thing up.
CPR - sparks at the points may indicate the condenser is not properly matched to the coil. In theory at least, if they are matched the condenser "absorbs" the surge when the points open, then reverses the current flow back through the windings to speed the collapse of the magnetic field and induce a greater voltage in the secondary windings of the coil. Sparking at the points indicates some of the energy is being lost when the point open.
Mark
The Super 250 is another notch above the standard 250 but most were 87 cc compare to the 80 cc 250, except of course for some early models. McCulloch did like to mix thing up.
CPR - sparks at the points may indicate the condenser is not properly matched to the coil. In theory at least, if they are matched the condenser "absorbs" the surge when the points open, then reverses the current flow back through the windings to speed the collapse of the magnetic field and induce a greater voltage in the secondary windings of the coil. Sparking at the points indicates some of the energy is being lost when the point open.
Mark
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Do you want to do the early model 82cc cylinder or the late model?* I can loan out a NOS late model cylinder and NOS piston. I sold my NOS older cylinder to an AS member - I'm not too bashful to ask him if he would loan it to the project for clean measurements. I have a used rod and a used crank (either old style or new) that I can also loan. I can help with some funding. FWIW, if he can make the cylinder (with proper wall thichness) and the piston, I believe that leaving the stroke as is will be the most economical route and be the most likely to be successful. If you alter the stroke then you have a lot more measurements to consider as well as the likelihood that the low end torque will be disproportionately higher and may overpower the clutch. Ron
* other than cowling mounts and location of the DSP valve, the biggest differences are the Q-porting of the later model and the larger fins on the later model's flywheel (thus the different cranks). MAC claims the later model had more HP but who really knows. The larger finned flywheel and more HP may have all been a result of the large bottom muffler that isn't so popular here.
homelitejim
Full of Scrap
I am giving him a few used up cylinders I have here to map them out. I will have to give him some duration numbers that I do not have as of yet, he does have 2 stroke knowledge but from motor cycles. There was mention of maybe doing a new cylinder to see if it would be cost effective as the old ones are getting harder to come by. We both agree that the crank and rod should be left the same to save time and money, so far we are both doing this for the "see if we can" factor and will just be paying for the material, he is comping his time and machines. This will be a slow process as we both have day jobs and if help is needed I will reach out but as of now we have everything in order.
Can a person effectively open up the center on the 1-4X versions for a gain?
Will stand by. Ron
homelitejim
Full of Scrap
I did notice the difference between the older style cylinders and the new and my eyes kept going to the older style, seems I like the look of the older style, might even be easier to machine if need be. I am boxing up a few parts this week to drop off, I will also be visiting the scrap yards this wednesday because I saw a few yellow parts in the clean mag box, I think I saw a 800 filter cover and a nice tank and rear handle, if they are still there I will be picking them up. I will also be swinging by a few small engine shops to see what they have laying around.
