McCulloch Chain Saws

[cpr]

Geesh... I'm glad I don't have time to even try to start mine right now with the track record you guys have going...

Oh, but the rewards...

ARRRR.
[video=youtube;4Xkb6DSA7h4]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Xkb6DSA7h4&feature=player_embedded[/video]

 

[Toolslinger]

So what do you guys do with all those thin little disks of log from all your testing... You could go in to business selling end grain cutting boards...:msp_biggrin:

-Tim

 

[a. palmer jr.]

So what do you guys do with all those thin little disks of log from all your testing... You could go in to business selling end grain cutting boards...:msp_biggrin:

-Tim

Bust 'em up and put 'em in a wood stove..but not now!

 

[cpr]

Yup. Sawdust for animal bedding and the cookies get torched in the OWB.

 

[paccity]

 

[psuiewalsh]

I like the saw in the top picture. Looks like it is ready to go to work.

 

[Ambull]

I'll take a rusty roller nose over a clean hard nose any day.......

Nice saws man!!!!!

 

[dieselsmoke]

Ron, oops I thought 850, oh well, nice saw anyway. your saw should run for a moment with a squirt, and WOT, even if the carb is buggered. A bright blue spark is good, so maybe a timing issue?

Kyle, my old 740 did not have a plastic sleeve under the points plate, the insulation had worn enough that it caused intermitent grounding. It would run fine one day, then no start the next. I had disconnected the stop switch wire to eliminate that possibility. Only then did I dig into the wiring from points to coil.

I have one tip for you guys with a sore arm, Go-Kart starter. I'll post a pic when I get home tonite. A quick spin with the spark plug out and grounded will show if spark is constant. With the plug in and a squirt of fuel I hit the start button and the saw WILL run. If it doesn't, then it's time to tear into it.

Nice gear-drives Frazier, Is the lower pic of your 1-6X?? Kinda looks familiar.

 

[promac850]

Ron, oops I thought 850, oh well, nice saw anyway. your saw should run for a moment with a squirt, and WOT, even if the carb is buggered. A bright blue spark is good, so maybe a timing issue?

Kyle, my old 740 did not have a plastic sleeve under the points plate, the insulation had worn enough that it caused intermitent grounding. It would run fine one day, then no start the next. I had disconnected the stop switch wire to eliminate that possibility. Only then did I dig into the wiring from points to coil.

I have one tip for you guys with a sore arm, Go-Kart starter. I'll post a pic when I get home tonite. A quick spin with the spark plug out and grounded will show if spark is constant. With the plug in and a squirt of fuel I hit the start button and the saw WILL run. If it doesn't, then it's time to tear into it.

Nice gear-drives Frazier, Is the lower pic of your 1-6X?? Kinda looks familiar.

I'd be happy to attempt pull starting the 790, but apparently the recoil spring broke as well as the rope. Was about to get it all back together and it won't tension up the pulley. The end that holds onto the pulley broke off.

I'm livid right now.

I was planning on setting a ziplock bag full of ice on top of the carb to help it cool down, maybe it'll start and run then. It almost ran yesterday. Not gonna do any more work on it for a while though... I've had enough for now.

It'll be fun once I try working on my mini Mac 110... you'll probably be able to hear my swearing. I have no doubts that they are good when they run properly and are assembled, ready to go. We'll see how long they last.

Which reminds me, I still owe you guys pictures of the mini Macs...

 

[Eccentric]

I'd be happy to attempt pull starting the 790, but apparently the recoil spring broke as well as the rope. Was about to get it all back together and it won't tension up the pulley. The end that holds onto the pulley broke off.

I'm livid right now.

I was planning on setting a ziplock bag full of ice on top of the carb to help it cool down, maybe it'll start and run then. It almost ran yesterday. Not gonna do any more work on it for a while though... I've had enough for now.

It'll be fun once I try working on my mini Mac 110... you'll probably be able to hear my swearing. I have no doubts that they are good when they run properly and are assembled, ready to go. We'll see how long they last.

Which reminds me, I still owe you guys pictures of the mini Macs...

In case you didn't allready know this..........you can bend a new end on that broken spring by heating it up to a cherry red with a torch first. Don't bend it cold....

 

[dieselsmoke]

Sometimes ya just have to step away for a while......This supposed to be fun....:msp_angry:
I know I grew some more grey hairs working my 740 (or 1-76).

 

[Eccentric]

Sometimes ya just have to step away for a while......This supposed to be fun....:msp_angry:
I know I grew some more grey hairs working my 740 (or 1-76).

Very true Brad. This is one of those cases. I'd leave the plug out of the saw (so it can dry out if badly flooded..........which I suspect it may be) and go have fun with something else. When I'm working on something that's kicking my butt, I like to shift over to some other project that's easily completed. A few 'small victories' can help me get back on track. I go back to the ******* project after I've had some success (and fun) somewhere else...

 

[heimannm]

When I have a badly flooded saw I like to remove the spark plug, connect it to the boot and ground it near the plug hole to check for spark then spin it over. Depending on how badly it was flooded, you forget all about the no start condition for a bit.

When I did that recently on the "no start" D-44 my younger son's only comment as I was putting out the fire was "you have done that before..."

Mark

 

[promac850]

In case you didn't allready know this..........you can bend a new end on that broken spring by heating it up to a cherry red with a torch first. Don't bend it cold....

Do I quench the end after bending it or just let it air cool?

Sometimes ya just have to step away for a while......This supposed to be fun....:msp_angry:
I know I grew some more grey hairs working my 740 (or 1-76).

It is fun. Sometimes.

The 250 so far has been the best. 850 is still burning oil. Though it doesn't smell quite like bar oil, so it may be mix from sitting flat on the floor for a few days. (forgot that these saws like to leak fuel into the cylinder when they are full and laying flat)

700 is still waiting on a handle to show up. (for less than the ebay prices that a clean decent handle goes for... I'm mostly dutch, so that's where my look on spending is... get it used if possible/feasible, and don't spend too much on it... or just fix it and use it, ugly or not)

 

[Eccentric]

Just let it cool.

 

[dieselsmoke]

Yup, no worries with theft when I carry a bunch of ugly in my truck!!!

 

[OldDeadWood]

10 - 10A Flooding

I had a little success today with my 10-10A. It's been kicking my but for over a week now.

If I dried everything out with the air hose it would start and run great for about five minutes.
Then it would start to load up with blue smoke, sputtering etc.:msp_sad:

I went through the carb about a dozen time cleaning and replacing certain part each time trying to isolate the problem. I looked for pinholes in the tank, carb and gaskets meny times with no luck.

Today with the same problems and a temp of about 94 degrees I gave up for another day and shut everything off.:msp_unsure:

It was very quiet when I went to drain the fuel tank until tomarrow. When I cracked the cap I heard a destinct PSSSST, and even saw a vapor spray of fuel shoot out.

Like the blind squeral that just stubed his toe on an acorn I realized that the duckbill in the cap had turned to mush and was pressurizing the tank untill it flooded the carb.:bang:

Recharged again I blew the whole thing out one more time, drilled out the duckbill gue (for now) and with a little effort the 10-10 is running great again.:msp_biggrin:

 

[heimannm]

Actually, the duck bill valve should allow the tank to build up pressure but prevent a vacuum.

I am not suggesting that repairing or replacing yours will not cure the current issue.

On the older large frame McCulloch saws the same duckbill valve was used in the fuel caps for many saws, as well as in the McCulloch pressure pulse carburetors. Those valves all have 6 little "tits" on the bottom end that would, theoretically allow the valve to unseat if the pressure went up too much and vent the excess. There is somewhere a Service Bulletin describing cutting 3 of the 6 little tits off to reduce the "pop off" pressure in the pressure pulse carburetor.

For 10 Series saws the duckbill is held in position with a small spring, it is very possible that the spring is also calibrated to allow the tank to vent excess pressure and avoid the kind of issue ODW has been having. If the duck bill has turned to goo (whale snot according to one of our east coast guys) it can't vent no matter what and could certainly cause excess fuel pressure related problems.

I have discovered that the little red Homelite duck bill valve (sorry, I don't have the part number memorized) will serve as a drop in replacement for the orginal NLA Mcculloch duck bill in the fuel cap for those that can be disassembled and replaced. On a few where the spring was AWOL or badly damages, I have gotten by stacking 3 #0 o-rings over the nipple before installing the duck bill and it seems to work under normal conditions. Not sure what happens if it gets very hot and creates a lot of pressure in the tank.

Mark

 

[Eccentric]

Homelite #69451. Available new from Oregon and Stens. Which 10-series caps are rebuildable (and which caps aren't)? "Nipples" and "tits" in the Mac thread.

 

[promac850]

Homelite #69451. Available new from Oregon and Stens. Which 10-series caps are rebuildable (and which caps aren't)? "Nipples" and "tits" in tbe Mac thread.

Don't tempt me to post nipple and tit pics...

Dammit. Too late.

There's a tit for ya.