McCulloch Chain Saws

[ozflea]

Well goodness crasious me this story is bigger and longer than Ben Hur .... read as the never ending story parts 1, 2 3 and 4

Sounds like you need Randy Mac to surface from the bottom of the ocean when he gets his leg free of that anchor he's attached too

 

[paccity]

890 in redwood today.

. on the gov thing i disabled mine and tuned it so theres no prob.

 

[leeha]

890 in redwood today.

. on the gov thing i disabled mine and tuned it so theres no prob.

I likey a lot.



Lee

 

[rwoods]

8 pin DL count

How many DLs are needed to compensate when going from a 7 pin to an 8 pin with 3/8" pitch? Ron

 

[Eccentric]

How many DLs are needed to compensate when going from a 7 pin to an 8 pin with 3/8" pitch? Ron

One, and that's a maybe. Depends where in the adjustment range the bar and chain were at with the 7 pin. Sometimes you have enough adjustment left to make it fly without adding a DL. What length bar and what DL count are you running with 7 pin now Ron?

 

[rwoods]

81DL 24" Ron

 

[joeymt33]

81DL 24" Ron

I've got a 8 tooth sprocket and a 24" bar. I'm pretty sure I had to add a link but I'll count for you and make sure.

Joey

Also, I used a new chain. Maybe a stretched 81DL chain could fit.

 

[RandyMac]

yep, add one with new chain, changing back to a 7 pin shouldn't much of a problem with the same chain, for awhile anyway.

 

[OldDeadWood]

Flywheel Magnet

It did. Fixed the throttle problem and now no spark. It had weak/no spark even when it was grounded to the cylinder, outside where there is no compression.

Use a screwdriver across the flywheel magnet to make sure it has plenty of pull.

I had a flywheel magnet loose it strength and it caused low and intermitant spart.

ODW

 

[rwoods]

Thanks, Ron

 

[joeymt33]

81DL 24" Ron

82 links on my sp80 with a 24" sprocket nose McCulloch 10-series bar and a 8 tooth sprocket

 

[heimannm]

If any of my saws started and ran like this 795L cut off saw I just finished I would have a lot more time for other activities. Photo's tonight...

Mark

 

[leeha]

I assume you have an HL on it?





Lee

 

[promac850]

Did a little tweaking and got her to bark. Quite a bit more reliably as well.

What I did when I got the flywheel off, is check the points over again. They were opened up a little bit, so I reset them and put a couple very small dabs of grease on the cam and the wear spot of the points rocker.

Then you have that metal plate that covers the two wires. I took that off, and coated the wires with dielectric grease, only where they go under that plate.

Next, I took the condenser off and sanded the paint off of the side cover where it mounts. Got it to bare metal then put it back together.

Put it all back together and put the flywheel on, pulled her over twice, and she fired up and ran. Didn't prime of anything since the warm weather put pressure in the tank, which there was a little fuel in the cylinder. (could smell it when I was pulling it over to check the spark)

Fast forward to just a few minutes ago, tweaking the carb in attempt to get the idle governor to do it job failed to yield the results I'm looking for. Looking for that chain stop/start thing we all have seen is supposed to happen with an idle governor.

Then the flywheel nut came off. (yes, I tightened that securely when I put the nut and everything back on) Thankfully, all that came off was the nut and washer. I heard a 'clank cla cla clank' and quickly shut it off.

Now that nut will receive a good dab of blue lock tite and I'll be putting it back together after checking that the key isn't sheared.

It sounds nice, idled and revved up well. However, there were a couple of times where it wouldn't come down to idle after revving it a little. It's definitely not at wide open throttle though, it sounds more like 1/3-1/2 throttle.

 

[promac850]

I fixed the flywheel nut and put it back on. (notice the three triangles on the nut?) I took a punch and re-deformed the threads in those spots. Snug as a bug in a rug now. Shouldn't have any incidents of this kind occur again.

Anyone have a good picture of about where the governor vane is supposed to be set to begin with? I adjusted it so it doesn't contact the flywheel when you pull the trigger to wide open throttle. Is that where it needs to be, close to the flywheel as possible without allowing contact?

 

[RandyMac]

Just take it off Kyle.

 

[leeha]

Who's going to be the proud owner of the 890 on the bay?
I know someone on this furum needs a big heavy Mac geardrive
for there collection. It didn't look to bad. Seen much worse.




Lee

 

[promac850]

Just take it off Kyle.

10-4... going out to work on it and fire it up again afterwards.

 

[dce1843]

And now one of the later style caps with the brass inserts. These are my favorite to work of as they are just so simple to repair. Grab with the pliers, twist and pull (notice that these brass inserts have already been in and out a time or two), replace the old duck bill valve with the new one, and you're finished. If the spring is damaged or destroyed in the process, I have been successful stacking 3 pieces of #0 o-ring over the nipple to take the place of the spring. I can't say if they are calibrated the same as the spring to "pop off" if the tank pressure is excessive, but for my purposes it works.

Notice two o-rings in the hole and one stuck to the duck bill valve

And finally my least favorite, I have a hard time getting the plastic insert out of the cap without damaging it, as you can see.

However, just drop in the Homelite duck bill valve, install the spring, and press it back together and you are finished.

There are several other styles of fuel caps found on 10 Series saws, but I have not figured out yet how to get them apart to make repairs.

Mark

Thanks alot. Ive bought a couple 30$ gas caps in the past. I didnt realize you could take them apart. That was super easy to fix.

 

[rwoods]

FAVORITE PM 800 - apart.

This evening I took my just rebuilt favorite PM800 out to tune it with a sharp chain. Ran great except it smokes a lot - must be burning bar oil as there has been plenty of time to burn off the assembly lube. Good thing as it must have a massive air leak as well. I could no more than get the idle adjusted and then after burying the 24" bar in my red oak testing stub (it cut great BTW), you could blip it - sometimes it would come back to idle and sometimes it would race on it's own while smoking like a freight train. Repeated this drill over and over until I was statisfied that it wasn't my adjustments or linkage causing the problem. I took it down to the cylinder and crankcase. Piston still looks brand new - no marks at all on the grey piston coating but it sure was wet with oil as was the muffler. That was a relief because one time it really took off and the switch didn't kill it until I scrunched it around some. Upon disassembly, I noted that the intake boot had twisted and probably didn't seat properly. I'm going to build a vacuum and pressure tester this week just to make sure. I'll replace the oiler seal while I am in there. Switching to socket head screws sure made disassembly a lot easier - so I think I did at least one thing right. Ron