McCulloch Chain Saws

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I picked this up today for $65, a bit more than I usually pay for a 10 series but I did talk them down to the $65. It will need a new fuel line before I can fire it up but has great spark and saw holding compression.


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The pic tells it all with the amount of compression.

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I put in a good fuel line and it fired on the 3rd pull, I will also need to put a carb kit in it as well, sat to long with the old fuel. I also replaced the compression release as the old one would pull its self in when the saw was running.
 
I have an interesting issue. One of my 10-10's doesn't oil very well, but the manual oiler works fine. I pulled the B&C off and monitored oil flow while running (after I primed it manually so I know all the air was out), it seems to work some at idle but it doesn't really increase much at all when increasing and holding steady RPM's. I can rev it up and down and it really doesn't change from a slow drip. This is with the oiler set wide open (screw out as far as it will go). When I then go to use the manual one it takes a few squirts for it to prime itself again....WTF? I just primed it before but somehow air got back in the line in the 45 seconds it was running...? I then decided to swap auto oilers with another 10-10 which I know works good. I put that oiler in and it basically did the same thing. I then put it back in the donor saw where it came from and it works like it's supposed to again. It has a steady stream of oil when holding higher rpm's, like I would expect. What would cause a known good pump not to work in one saw but works great in another? I checked the check valve in the pickup line by sucking on the screened end and I created vacuum. I blew in it and it and it blew out fine.

Are there any check valves or any other valves in the passage ways of the case?

Any ideas?? Can one saw just give better "impulses" which drives the oiler better than another saw?

thanks!

anyone have any ideas? :confused: :dizzy:
 
JRHAWK- There is a channel in the crankcase to allow the impulse to pass to the auto oil pump, yours may be partially blocked.

Kyle - Get serious about getting that pump installed correctly and lay it to rest.

Jim - I think you are getting too many of those 5 cube gems, please send me an SP81E and an 805. Then I will only need the Super 850, DE80, and 8200 to complete my set. I do have an extra SP81 and PM800 to offer in trade...

Mark
 
The 640 Bow saga continues

I did manage to get it all back together last night but alas, too late to fuel it up for a test. I will get the bow bar cleaned up tonight and get this one finished...I hope.

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I mentioned that someone had converted this from the original flat back to Tillotson. Since this carburetor came off a front tank saw they cut AF cover stud off. The throttle rod that was on it was not going to work so I found a spare in a parts drawer and think I have something that will work.

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Mark
 
Shawn 6580 - Certainly not if everything works properly.

There were several different models with the Timber Bear handle so either add some more details or a photo to be sure.

Most probably you have a Timber Bear 3.7 (or is it 3.4) that is based on the 600 Series McCulloch saws like the 610, 605, etc. All have a crankcase pulse operated automatic oiler in addition to the manual oiler. If the manual oiler works, most likely the automatic oiler does as well since the share all the same check valves and routing.

Mark
 
Many professional saws from the 60's, 70's, and 80's had a manual oiler in addition to the automatic oiler for supplemental oil when needed such as long cuts, dirty, sappy, or sandy conditions, etc.

I am sure that some of it was just due to the reluctance of old timers to give up their manual oiler function.

I have newer saws with automatic oilers only but I am never quite comfortable that they oil enough so I am frequently revving the saw out of the cut to check for oil. On my old McCullochs, I just give a pump and feel the manual oiler working and proceed with confidence that the chain is getting enough oil.

Of course I like points/condenser ignitions and the McCulloch flat back carburetors as well...

Mark
 
Always good to hear about a MAC in another thread

Posted by John Inglis in the Stihl 441cm versus 460 thread:

go to saw
i have not used 441 cm but have tried nearly every other saw suitable for every day use and i keep picking up the 460 , there is a 372 , 394 husky . a 2094 jonny , a sweeet 660 , a big bore makita 6401 conversion and my pm 850 mcculloch that has been my favourite for over 30 years( but parts scarcity make me careful with it as i absolutely love it) .the 460 more than any other saw does it all , light enough to limb, powerful enough to finish a decent hardwood log and i mean old dead eucalypt that throws sparks in any low light . its a good go to saw.
emphasis added.

:rock:

Ron
 
JRHAWK- There is a channel in the crankcase to allow the impulse to pass to the auto oil pump, yours may be partially blocked.

Kyle - Get serious about getting that pump installed correctly and lay it to rest.
Jim - I think you are getting too many of those 5 cube gems, please send me an SP81E and an 805. Then I will only need the Super 850, DE80, and 8200 to complete my set. I do have an extra SP81 and PM800 to offer in trade...

Mark

Kyle, most likely, it is just pulling in oil from the seal. Get a spring clip kit and fix it. Or if you dare drill two holes through the case and screw it down from above. The spring fixed mine. Part number 215246. Ron
 
10-10

I picked this up for $10 at an auction a couple weeks ago in northern Wisconsin. The auctioneer was touting it as a "fixer upper". I took it back to the cabin, cleaned the very dirty air filter, and we're off to the races. It is missing the on/off switch and I have to kill it with the choke. No biggie, but I'd like to fix it. I was going to get the replacement parts but I am wondering if that hole is too damaged to keep the switch parts in place.

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Nice saw Sam. I was going to go to that auction, but had to work. Probably saved ya about $10.

If the experts deem the hole good, I have a junker 10-10 I could probably get you the switch from. Possibly the whole handle if needed, but let me lay my hands on it tomorrow to be sure.
 
It was right off hwy 63, just north of Barronett. Quite a bit of stuff. There were a few other saws, but they were pretty beat up. Thanks for checking Steve.
 
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I picked this up for $10 at an auction a couple weeks ago in northern Wisconsin. The auctioneer was touting it as a "fixer upper". I took it back to the cabin, cleaned the very dirty air filter, and we're off to the races. It is missing the on/off switch and I have to kill it with the choke. No biggie, but I'd like to fix it. I was going to get the replacement parts but I am wondering if that hole is too damaged to keep the switch parts in place.


Heya Sam - Congrats on the acquisition. That hole doesn't look to have enough 'meat' left to hold the switch mechanism reliably. I recently had my SP81 apart and IIRC the assembly relied upon the sides to be intact. I'd go for the whole handle replacement if possible. Just my $.02 ..
 


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