McCulloch Chain Saws

[joeymt33]

Come on down. Some Saturdays are more fun than others. Last Saturday, I mainly hauled wood. I did cut up a nice 18" cherry tree and an 18" red oak snag with the PM800 but no photos. I still have a 3' red oak to buck sometime and 4'+ red oak tree to fall and buck. Ron

Count me in too!

 

[dieselsmoke]

Great pics guys, any comment on where they were taken? Fraz's falling pic looks like N Cali?
Great pics Ron, I'm jealous. My big job is 'bout done, working saturdays for about a month.
My saws are tuned, sharp, ready to go. Next week, weather permitting, I'll be in the chips.

 

[BigDaddyR]

So today I tried starting the Mac 10-10AM that I got a few weeks ago Fter cleaning it. Rinsing the fuel tank, verifying spark etc. primes it and 2nd pull it popped and ran for about 4 seconds and died. Tried starting it and wouldn't start. Pulled the spark plug and it was wet. Cleaned it and tried again it didn't start and plug was wet again.

I noticed a few markets on the flywheel so wanted to get your opinion on it. Guess I need to check the gaps in the coil with feeler guages? I have included a few pics.

Also I think this is a points system which I'm not familiar with so will need to do some reading on that.

The fuel cap seems to be weeping fuel also. Any way that could cause not to start.

Any other thoughts on it?

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[heimannm]

Plug wet? May simply be flooding. Probably a good idea to remove the carburetor and give it a thorough cleaning and make sure all the diaphragms are in good order and the needle valve seats properly.

Coil gap should be set around 0.010". If you don't have a good spark then it may be necessary to pull the flywheel and clean and gap the points. Point gap should be 0.018-0.020".

Fuel cap leaking is not the cause of the no start condition. It may simply be that the cork gasket has dried out and letting is soak a bit will fix it. It will probably be necessary to replace the duckbill valve in the fuel cap as well as the cork gasket to stop the leaking.

Mark

 

[BigDaddyR]

Plug wet? May simply be flooding. Probably a good idea to remove the carburetor and give it a thorough cleaning and make sure all the diaphragms are in good order and the needle valve seats properly.

Coil gap should be set around 0.010". If you don't have a good spark then it may be necessary to pull the flywheel and clean and gap the points. Point gap should be 0.018-0.020".

Fuel cap leaking is not the cause of the no start condition. It may simply be that the cork gasket has dried out and letting is soak a bit will fix it. It will probably be necessary to replace the duckbill valve in the fuel cap as well as the cork gasket to stop the leaking.

Mark

I had pulled the plug and attached it to the plug wire. Pulled it and got bright white spark to the body of the saw. I was wearing gloves of course. Seems to have good spark that's why I was wondering about timing maybe. It did sit for a while so going through the carb probably is not a bad idea. Not familiar with it so more reading.

 

[fossil]

I had pulled the plug and attached it to the plug wire. Pulled it and got bright white spark to the body of the saw. I was wearing gloves of course. Seems to have good spark that's why I was wondering about timing maybe. It did sit for a while so going through the carb probably is not a bad idea. Not familiar with it so more reading.

You would do well to make sure the fuel line and filter are intact and in good shape. Put a carb kit in it. They are cheap and well worth it.

Assuming it has a Walbro carb you will find info here to Put that kit in your carb and get it adjusted.

Service Manuals

 

[ozflea]

Plug wet? May simply be flooding. Probably a good idea to remove the carburetor and give it a thorough cleaning and make sure all the diaphragms are in good order and the needle valve seats properly.

Coil gap should be set around 0.010". If you don't have a good spark then it may be necessary to pull the flywheel and clean and gap the points. Point gap should be 0.018-0.020".

Fuel cap leaking is not the cause of the no start condition. It may simply be that the cork gasket has dried out and letting is soak a bit will fix it. It will probably be necessary to replace the duckbill valve in the fuel cap as well as the cork gasket to stop the leaking.

Mark

You missed one other thing Mark the ignition switch and make sure the saw is turned on

 

[ckelp]

so i've been looking at porting my 250 (got nothing better to do with it)
i thought this was stage how it had reeds and it was piston ported aswell.. can someone shed some light on this design, because i've seen it one way or the other...

also, am i going to have to take the saw down to the bearing shop to find new seals or is there someone that is whilling to share the timkin p/n for them:msp_smile:

 

[Eccentric]

I thought the rule was Randy Mac's.

Randy's rule applies to the Red thread. Mine was just the reciprocal here (in response to Randy)...

And, on a continuing subject, I stopped on my way home from the airport to see a guy about some chainsaw bars and odds and ends of chain. I picked up 8 bars altogether and low and behold, several had the two kinds of adapters / spacers that I had mentioned a few days ago to mount a 3/8" slot bar on a saw with 5/16" bar studs as in large frame McCulloch bar on a 10 Series saw.

And here is a truly "one size fits all".

Mark

Mark those Windsor bars look to be the UXL/TXL mount, which is like an Oregon D096 XL-12 type Homelite mount. They were intended to be used on earlier XL-12 saws with 5/16" studs (later saws in the series have 3/8" studs) as well as older midsize Poulans by utilizing the included spring and 'S' spacers.

Some of these UXL/TXL bars (including yours in the pic) have the 10-series 'oil through the adjuster hole' passages cut from the adjuster holes to the grooves. That would allow a 10-series saw to oil them. I have a UXL bar from my Poulan 306A that has those passages. That saw also uses an 'S' spacer on the studs.

MXT is the Windsor mount for 10-series Macs. It has the 5/16" slot and the correct oil passages for those saws (like an old Oregon D276). Current D176 Oregon bars are a 'catch all' bar intended to be ran on large Echos, 10-series Macs, 5/16" stud Homelite XL-12 type saws, and older midsize Poulans. Not sure why they made both the MXT mount bars and the UXL bars, since the UXL bars could be used on 10-series Macs with the spacers. I have seen UXL/TXL bars without the 'oil through the adjuster hole' oil passages. Maybe those were older UXL/TXL bars (made when the MXT bars were produced) and later UXL/TXL bars (with the added passages) made the MXT obsolete (as the D176 did for the D276).

All large frame Macs can properly oil the 3/8" slot 'oil through the adjuster hole' late style bars (that look like an enlarged 10-series bar) so long as you put the late style bar plates (that look like enlarged 10-series bar plates) on them..............or if you run the saw without an inner bar plate. The early style inner bar plates only work with the earlier 'four hole' bars (and those that have the slot cut between the adjuster hole and the oiler hole).

That GB bar looks interesting. Seems to be another 'catch all' bar, although it again doesn't look to have the 'oil through the adjuster hole' passages cut. Maybe one of those separate oiler holes lines up with the oiler hole in the 10-series bar pad. Lay a 10-series bar plate over that bar tail and you'll see if it'll work without modification....

 

[BigDaddyR]

You missed one other thing Mark the ignition switch and make sure the saw is turned on

There is no stop switch on this saw and looks like there hasn't been for quite some time. Wire going to it is taped off. I think my friend just used the choke to kill it.


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[minosi]

and low and behold, several had the two kinds of adapters / spacers that I had mentioned a few days ago to mount a 3/8" slot bar on a saw with 5/16" bar studs as in large frame McCulloch bar on a 10 Series saw. Mark

Mark, do you have part numbers for either of the adaptors?

-Andy

 

[homelitejim]

Found this little hot rod today, just couldn't pass it up.

Opened it up and it looks way better on the inside than it does on the outside, filled the tank with gas, twisted the knobs on the carb and a few pulls later I get this. I will not know for sure until I get it in the wood but it feels a bit stronger than a standard 10-10.

[video=youtube;YX8oMZ3jcsA]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YX8oMZ3jcsA&feature=youtu.be[/video]


Best dadgum $4 I have spent in a while.

 

[8433jeff]

Found this little hot rod today, just couldn't pass it up.

Opened it up and it looks way better on the inside than it does on the outside, filled the tank with gas, twisted the knobs on the carb and a few pulls later I get this.

[video=youtube;YX8oMZ3jcsA]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YX8oMZ3jcsA&feature=youtu.be[/video]


Best dadgum $4 I have spent in a while.

Can you ship it to me for 5x your money?

I'll pay the freight....

 

[heimannm]

6-10 is 71 cc, should be a lot stronger that a 10-10.

Mark

 

[homelitejim]

6-10 is 71 cc, should be a lot stronger that a 10-10.

Mark

Good to know, I had not looked it up yet but could tell it had some power, this will save me from putting one of my 10-10's into service to see, thank you.

 

[8433jeff]

Good to know, I had not looked it up yet but could tell it had some power, this will save me from putting one of my 10-10's into service to see, thank you.

OK, I'll go the $20 on the 10-10 and $50 on the 6-10. Thats the best I can do, and seems fair, at least to me...

 

[homelitejim]

OK, I'll go the $20 on the 10-10 and $50 on the 6-10. Thats the best I can do, and seems fair, at least to me...

I am going to clean up the 6-10 and put it into service, I am in need of a mid size saw to run a 20 inch bar and chain.

 

[minosi]

Looks like it will clean up nicely, awesome score

 

[stinkbait]

I Need A Part

It's the clutch drum for a 1-93 Mac. The part is the same on 1-92, 1-93, and 940 saws. The part number is 58134.

 

[specter29]

anyone have a part number or know were to get an air filter for 797 super?