McCulloch Chain Saws

[vinnywv]

Wow!!! What a badazz sumbeach he is!!! Not a chance in hejj id do such a thing. Lmao

 

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

Wow!!! What a badazz sumbeach he is!!! Not a chance in hejj id do such a thing. Lmao

Yeah nahh think that goes for all of us

 

[vinnywv]

2 things id not do. 1 is jump out a helicopter onto a deer and wrestle the thing down. 2 is mess with that guy. He is tough and crazy and would likely beat the tar out of you just because...hahaha

 

[MacAttack]

The chain is nos zipp-penn safe t chain. I saw a post a few back about it. View attachment 1221487

My old 450 has non-safety Zip-Penn chain on it. Never seen that brand before.

 

[heimannm]

Those humps were intended to reduce vibration, several chain manufacturers tried similar designs. In actual use some folks began to notice there was less tendency for kick back and thus the evolution of "safety chain" was started.

McCulloch Pintail chain was intended to reduce vibration with that tail sticking out around the nose of the bar.

Pioneer Dura-Cut had a big rooster tail for the same purpose.

The Oregon 84 (.404 power sharp type chain) has a similar anti-vibration bumper.

Saber and others also had similar type designs.



Mark

 

[Syncop8r]

I probably should aquire a tester. Because yeah your right pulling on the cord isn't exactly accurate

Compression tester and pressure/vacuum tester are on my wishlist... along with a place to work on saws.

 

[Doug]

Got a 10-10 auto at auction recently. The saw I really want is the right-side-recoil 10-10 from the mid sixties. But I haven't come across one yet, so this one will do for now. This will be my first attempt to revive a vintage saw. The air filter is intact, surprisingly clean in the air box, throttle & choke linkages are good. Motor turns but is way too stiff, even with the plug out. Squirted WD down its throat, which helped a little bit, but still feels too stiff to me. What could be going on there? Rust on the crank & bearings? Or on the rings? Varnish in the crankcase from evaporated gas? Maybe just immerse the entire saw in gasoline for a week or two?
The tanks are clean, only a drop or two of oil in the tank. Gas tank is clean and dry, but I spotted a few spots where the paint is flaking off. How to deal with that? It's not my intent to do a full restoration here, just want to get it running for now so I can use it for eventual sell or trade toward a right-side-recoil saw.
Maybe just vacuum it out and keep a lot of fuel filters on hand? Try to remove all the interior paint chemically? I really don't want to take the tank apart for fear it might be difficult to get it to seal back up again. Hard to tell just looking in the tank, but appears to be a cork gasket. Would be a challenge to make one.
Aluminum id tag inside the air box says "Mod 600002 U, s/n 10-60070"

ALSO would appreciate any thoughts on comparative value. Assuming saws of equal condition, would the right-side-recoil saw be worth any more, or less, or about the same, as compared to the left-side-recoil saw?

 

[MacAttack]

Turning over stiff makes me a little nervous.... it's a chrome bore (nope...actually a cast iron bore) so it could just have a little corrosion on the rings. But if your bearings are corroded enough to be stiff they're toast.
It does look like a nice saw, maybe it's worth the effort to take it apart and look at the internals.
But I would make sure you don't have something in the clutch or flywheel that's dragging before you tear it down.
These are tough, excellent saws, one of my favorites.

 

[heimannm]

10-10 of that vintage is still a cast iron bore. Pretty likely the cylinder has some rust, but it is certainly possible that the bearings are rough as well. You can try starting with more lubricant in the cylinder and spinning it with a drill to see if it helps. Get some lube or mix into the crankcase as well and see if that helps loosen things up. You really need to pressure/vacuum test the crankcase and that will involve removing the muffler which could easily lead to a full teardown. Getting the muffler off is doable, but getting it back in place under the shroud with the gasket located properly is a challenge.

For the tank, just put a handful of small nuts in there (8-32, 10-24, etc.) and shake it around for a while. That should knock off any loose paint, after that keep an eye on the fuel filter. Viton fuel tank gaskets are available from Traverse Creek (AKA The Duke), on eBay, from HL Supply, and elsewhere and are not too expensive. You might find it faster and easier to just order a tank gasket and open that one up to clean it out. If the fuel line is still flexible but doesn't fit snuggly in the hole through the tank, you can put several wraps of Teflon tape on it to improve the fit and seal.

Mark

 

[Rallyeguy]

Got a 10-10 auto at auction recently. The saw I really want is the right-side-recoil 10-10 from the mid sixties. But I haven't come across one yet, so this one will do for now. This will be my first attempt to revive a vintage saw. The air filter is intact, surprisingly clean in the air box, throttle & choke linkages are good. Motor turns but is way too stiff, even with the plug out. Squirted WD down its throat, which helped a little bit, but still feels too stiff to me. What could be going on there? Rust on the crank & bearings? Or on the rings? Varnish in the crankcase from evaporated gas? Maybe just immerse the entire saw in gasoline for a week or two?
The tanks are clean, only a drop or two of oil in the tank. Gas tank is clean and dry, but I spotted a few spots where the paint is flaking off. How to deal with that? It's not my intent to do a full restoration here, just want to get it running for now so I can use it for eventual sell or trade toward a right-side-recoil saw.
Maybe just vacuum it out and keep a lot of fuel filters on hand? Try to remove all the interior paint chemically? I really don't want to take the tank apart for fear it might be difficult to get it to seal back up again. Hard to tell just looking in the tank, but appears to be a cork gasket. Would be a challenge to make one.
Aluminum id tag inside the air box says "Mod 600002 U, s/n 10-60070"

ALSO would appreciate any thoughts on comparative value. Assuming saws of equal condition, would the right-side-recoil saw be worth any more, or less, or about the same, as compared to the left-side-recoil saw?

The 10-10A is an iron bore 54CC saw. Might be rust in the bore or the bearings depending on where it sat. I'd break it down and have a look. Bearings if clean are usually solid on the flywheel side for these, These are getting a bit pricy of late, but the clutch side is still easy to find, along with seals, gaskets etc...Good news you have a good air filter. They have been fetching between $40-60 on ebay.

https://www.oldsawshop.com/McCulloch-10-Series-Chainsaws-Gaskets-&-Parts-c168127023

See attached IPL to help you out with part numbers....

Brian Genrich
Old Saw Shop
Gaskets and Graphics
WWW.Oldsawshop.com

 

[Jeffrey F.]

I've recently started making the gasket/deflectors again out of aluminum for the SP125's that use the full one. If anyone is in need.

 

[Jeffrey F.]

I also have the 3-25 fuel check valves if needed. And still making the fuel metering diagram kits

 

[Doug]

OK, thanks guys. Kinda suspected that's what it would be. I'm going to go ahead and order the gasket kit and then take it apart. Probably won't be till spring though. Appreciate your input

 

[JSMississippi]

New to the forum (and chainsaws in general). I got my first chainsaw lesson (27yo, so I'm a little late to the game) from my father-in-law a few weeks ago, then got to borrow his Stihl to cut up some firewood in my backyard. Last weekend he pulled this Pro Mac 10-10S with 18" bar out of the family's tractor shed, said it had been sitting up there for who knows how long and hated just seeing it sit, and that it was my wife's great-grandfather's or grandfather's (who passed a couple years ago, so I know it hasn't run recently at all), and gave it to me. To the google I went! Found this forum quickly and decided to join - very cool to see a bunch of folks in here with this much knowledge. Looks like I've found a good bit of info already, and I printed out the IPL I found. I've piddled around with it for a couple hours so far. Here's how we looked initially:

• Had some old nasty fuel still in the tank, so I was worried from the get-go about that. We did a quick wash out with some gas, then I poured in some Marvel Mystery oil to sit a bit. I'm still going to need to clean the fuel tank for sure though. And new fuel line/pickup and rebuild the carb I'm sure.
• Turns over smooth and the DSP works
• Throttle and choke operate smoothly
• Pull cord wasn't wanting to consistently contract all the way, leaving a couple inches hanging sometimes - this got better with more use.

Had more time to tinker last night. Had to air up my wife's tires now that it's finally cold here, so that gave me an excuse to go out to the "shop room" (pretty big storage room built into our garage). Added a little fresh 40:1 to the tank with the MM oil to sit before I tear it apart to clean. Gave it a shot of fuel down the carb and tried starting, no luck. Pulled the plug and tried hand cranking with the plug against the body to see if we had spark, no-go. Peeped in at the cylinder and looked like it was getting lubrication, piston top had some carbon but didn't look bad to me. Cylinder wall (what I could see at least) looked nice and shiny, maybe some light scratching? Decided to start tracking down the no-spark issue, thought maybe it'd be easier to hold still if I used my drill to turn it over. Pulled the flywheel cover off and found the plug wire disconnected from the coil! I read these were glued into the coil originally, so I don't think I accidentally did this just moving the plug wire over to the left side when testing for spark? I'm guessing it caught on something last time it ran, pulled the wire off, then has sat since. I screwed the wire back onto the coil in hopes I'd be so lucky. Tested for spark and it was a go! Put that side back together, gave it a shot of fuel down the carb, and it came to life for a few seconds!! Did it one more time for funsies! I think it was burning some of that MM oil too because it was so smoky it set my smoke detector off lol. Called it a night. So now that I know it will run, I'm looking for some pointers from those that know much more than I do:

• I assume clean the fuel tank, new fuel line and pickup, carb kit. Anything else on the top end I should look into?
• Autozone near me has a compression tester for rent - should I do so?
• I am wanting to get it running, idling, and accelerating well before it touches wood at all, so I'll likely be asking questions later regarding oiling and clutch, etc.
• Anything else I should be checking for now, or anything I should know?

A few other questions:

• Is there a way to roughly date the saw? My understanding is the PM10-10S ran from 1982-1998 or so, but any idea how to narrow further?
• I've also seen photos of a 10-10S Special Edition that has a red sticker with the goose logo on the AF cover. Seeing that the sticker is peeled off on mine, is there another way to identify a Special Edition? This may sound dumb, but it is a running thing in our family that I love ducks and geese, so it'd be fitting if it came with that logo.

Apologies for the text overload, I'm just a bit excited about this!

 

[Rallyeguy]

W

New to the forum (and chainsaws in general). I got my first chainsaw lesson (27yo, so I'm a little late to the game) from my father-in-law a few weeks ago, then got to borrow his Stihl to cut up some firewood in my backyard. Last weekend he pulled this Pro Mac 10-10S with 18" bar out of the family's tractor shed, said it had been sitting up there for who knows how long and hated just seeing it sit, and that it was my wife's great-grandfather's or grandfather's (who passed a couple years ago, so I know it hasn't run recently at all), and gave it to me. To the google I went! Found this forum quickly and decided to join - very cool to see a bunch of folks in here with this much knowledge. Looks like I've found a good bit of info already, and I printed out the IPL I found. I've piddled around with it for a couple hours so far. Here's how we looked initially:

• Had some old nasty fuel still in the tank, so I was worried from the get-go about that. We did a quick wash out with some gas, then I poured in some Marvel Mystery oil to sit a bit. I'm still going to need to clean the fuel tank for sure though. And new fuel line/pickup and rebuild the carb I'm sure.
• Turns over smooth and the DSP works
• Throttle and choke operate smoothly
• Pull cord wasn't wanting to consistently contract all the way, leaving a couple inches hanging sometimes - this got better with more use.

Had more time to tinker last night. Had to air up my wife's tires now that it's finally cold here, so that gave me an excuse to go out to the "shop room" (pretty big storage room built into our garage). Added a little fresh 40:1 to the tank with the MM oil to sit before I tear it apart to clean. Gave it a shot of fuel down the carb and tried starting, no luck. Pulled the plug and tried hand cranking with the plug against the body to see if we had spark, no-go. Peeped in at the cylinder and looked like it was getting lubrication, piston top had some carbon but didn't look bad to me. Cylinder wall (what I could see at least) looked nice and shiny, maybe some light scratching? Decided to start tracking down the no-spark issue, thought maybe it'd be easier to hold still if I used my drill to turn it over. Pulled the flywheel cover off and found the plug wire disconnected from the coil! I read these were glued into the coil originally, so I don't think I accidentally did this just moving the plug wire over to the left side when testing for spark? I'm guessing it caught on something last time it ran, pulled the wire off, then has sat since. I screwed the wire back onto the coil in hopes I'd be so lucky. Tested for spark and it was a go! Put that side back together, gave it a shot of fuel down the carb, and it came to life for a few seconds!! Did it one more time for funsies! I think it was burning some of that MM oil too because it was so smoky it set my smoke detector off lol. Called it a night. So now that I know it will run, I'm looking for some pointers from those that know much more than I do:

• I assume clean the fuel tank, new fuel line and pickup, carb kit. Anything else on the top end I should look into?
• Autozone near me has a compression tester for rent - should I do so?
• I am wanting to get it running, idling, and accelerating well before it touches wood at all, so I'll likely be asking questions later regarding oiling and clutch, etc.
• Anything else I should be checking for now, or anything I should know?

A few other questions:

• Is there a way to roughly date the saw? My understanding is the PM10-10S ran from 1982-1998 or so, but any idea how to narrow further?
• I've also seen photos of a 10-10S Special Edition that has a red sticker with the goose logo on the AF cover. Seeing that the sticker is peeled off on mine, is there another way to identify a Special Edition? This may sound dumb, but it is a running thing in our family that I love ducks and geese, so it'd be fitting if it came with that logo.

Apologies for the text overload, I'm just a bit excited about this!

Welcome to the group.

You found the right place for help on this saw.... I'm attaching the IPL for your saw so you have part numbers etc... Best bet would be to go through the fuel system. Did you see signs of leaking at the tank seal or where the line goes through the wall of the tank? These are common issues. Good chance the carb will need attention. The carb should be an SDC 44 based on the IPL. Definitely clean the tank of any loose material or you'll always have issues with fuel flow. Best way would be pop the tank top and scrub it out (Id bead blast or use a 3M scrub pad) if you see loose materials in there.

Carb Kit https://www.oldsawshop.com/Walbro-K-10-SDC-Carburetor-Kit-p612067466
Fuel Line https://www.oldsawshop.com/McCulloch-10-series-Molded-Fuel-Line-p629879062
leaker kit including tank gasket/fuel line https://www.oldsawshop.com/McCulloch-10-10-Deluxe-Leak-repair-Kit-p611977389

IPL info on these has 82-98 for the date range they were offered. Easiest way to date your saw is by looking at the numbers stamped on the carburetor. If its original its likely going to give your closest build date.

Special edition Goose sticker for the 10-10s was offered during an anniversary year. Saws are all exactly the same with that being the only difference.

Full disclosure oldsawshop.com is my store, built on the premise of helping others maintain Mac saws..... My first mac was my dads, went through the same process your going through, and found it was a blast to get it running again. This gave me yellow fever, and here we are...

Brian



I

 

[Jay Hansen]

It started on prime, so it has enough compression to run, I guess I wouldn't worry about a compression test at this point. Carburetor cleaner will probably work better to clean your tank. I would change the fuel filter for sure and inspect the gas line ( a pressure test of the line and the carburetor would be ideal). It sounds as though it might have pulled some of the Marvel Mystery oil out of the tank when you started it, so your carburetor might be pumping and metering fuel. You might have a runner! If it does run then you can determine what it needs further attention. Be especially mindful of air leak symptoms.

 

[Jay Hansen]

It started on prime, so it has enough compression to run, I guess I wouldn't worry about a compression test at this point. Carburetor cleaner will probably work better to clean your tank. I would change the fuel filter for sure and inspect the gas line ( a pressure test of the line and the carburetor would be ideal). It sounds as though it might have pulled some of the Marvel Mystery oil out of the tank when you started it, so your carburetor might be pumping and metering fuel. You might have a runner! If it does run then you can determine what it needs further attention. Be especially mindfully of air leak sym

 

[MacAttack]

Slap a carb kit in that 10-10S, clean the fuel tank, remove the recoil side engine cover and clean all the gunk and sawdust, and I bet it will run sweet. I love my 10-10S.

 

[rwoods]

My cutting buddy, Brian Thacker, has a 1010S. It is fun to run and is a great firewood saw.

Ron

 

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

10-10S engine with the flat muffler and quite a big outlet