10-10.I don't have any McCulloch saws yet. Just started collecting (mostly Pioneer, Poulan, and a couple old Sears).
What's a good McCulloch model to start off with?
10-10 would be great as suggested. And for the reasons mentioned. Then go bigger. Steer away from the mini macs for a spell. They can be cheap but man do they test ya.I don't have any McCulloch saws yet. Just started collecting (mostly Pioneer, Poulan, and a couple old Sears).
What's a good McCulloch model to start off with?
It takes a real man to work on a Mini Mac...10-10 would be great as suggested. And for the reasons mentioned. Then go bigger. Steer away from the mini macs for a spell. They can be cheap but man do they test ya.
10-10 saws are still relatively easy to find, and fun to repair/run. Any of the 10 series saws are great with lots of part interchangeability.I don't have any McCulloch saws yet. Just started collecting (mostly Pioneer, Poulan, and a couple old Sears).
What's a good McCulloch model to start off with?
Thanks! Air leak, as in like a vacuum leak on a car engine? Still learning 2-strokes, is this what people are describing when the engine speeds up if turned to one side or the other?It started on prime, so it has enough compression to run, I guess I wouldn't worry about a compression test at this point. Carburetor cleaner will probably work better to clean your tank. I would change the fuel filter for sure and inspect the gas line ( a pressure test of the line and the carburetor would be ideal). It sounds as though it might have pulled some of the Marvel Mystery oil out of the tank when you started it, so your carburetor might be pumping and metering fuel. You might have a runner! If it does run then you can determine what it needs further attention. Be especially mindful of air leak symptoms.
Thanks! Haven't had enough fuel/oil in the tank yet to sit above the gasket level, other than sloshing it around, but doesn't seem to leak when doing that. I assume I'll be doing new fuel tank gasket and line anyways though since I'm going to pop the top.W
Welcome to the group.
You found the right place for help on this saw.... I'm attaching the IPL for your saw so you have part numbers etc... Best bet would be to go through the fuel system. Did you see signs of leaking at the tank seal or where the line goes through the wall of the tank? These are common issues. Good chance the carb will need attention. The carb should be an SDC 44 based on the IPL. Definitely clean the tank of any loose material or you'll always have issues with fuel flow. Best way would be pop the tank top and scrub it out (Id bead blast or use a 3M scrub pad) if you see loose materials in there.
Carb Kit https://www.oldsawshop.com/Walbro-K-10-SDC-Carburetor-Kit-p612067466
Fuel Line https://www.oldsawshop.com/McCulloch-10-series-Molded-Fuel-Line-p629879062
leaker kit including tank gasket/fuel line https://www.oldsawshop.com/McCulloch-10-10-Deluxe-Leak-repair-Kit-p611977389
IPL info on these has 82-98 for the date range they were offered. Easiest way to date your saw is by looking at the numbers stamped on the carburetor. If its original its likely going to give your closest build date.
Special edition Goose sticker for the 10-10s was offered during an anniversary year. Saws are all exactly the same with that being the only difference.
Full disclosure oldsawshop.com is my store, built on the premise of helping others maintain Mac saws..... My first mac was my dads, went through the same process your going through, and found it was a blast to get it running again. This gave me yellow fever, and here we are...
Brian
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Yes definitely some cleaning to do!Slap a carb kit in that 10-10S, clean the fuel tank, remove the recoil side engine cover and clean all the gunk and sawdust, and I bet it will run sweet. I love my 10-10S.
That's the majority of what this one will see, is firewood use. We've only got a handful of trees on our 1/2 acre, but I'll be bringing it with me to my wife's family's "camp house" an hour away that we spend several weekends at a year. I forget how many acres, but it has collectively about 3-4 miles of trails cleared that we like to walk/ride on, and it seems every time we go, there's at least a couple fallen or about to fall trees to clear - good mix of pine and some hardwoods too. My FIL usually just runs his Stihl, but I've got a feeling something louder and yellow will be out there too soon!My cutting buddy, Brian Thacker, has a 1010S. It is fun to run and is a great firewood saw.
Ron
10-10S engine with the flat muffler and quite a big outlet
A position sensitivity such as you describe is certainly one of the symptoms that can be caused by an air leak. A vacuum leak on a car engine will cause the engine to run poorly, but on a two stroke engine it can cause catastrophic damage. All of the lubrication that a two stroke gets is in the gas mix; it's mixed in at a ratio of (usually) 32:1 to 50:1, then the carburetotor introduces it into the engine at approximately 15 parts fuel mix to 85 parts air. This already is not much lube, so any air leak added to that quickly becomes a concern. Other guys on this forum can tell you more than I can about the burn rates/heat generation of lean fuel mix, but it's not good, so that adds to the issue. Adding more oil to the fuel mix isn't an answer either, as that can result in carbon buildup that brings it's own set of issues.Thanks! Air leak, as in like a vacuum leak on a car engine? Still learning 2-strokes, is this what people are describing when the engine speeds up if turned to one side or the other?
Oh, so MUCH bigger issue than running hot or pinging if not addressed quickly.A position sensitivity such as you describe is certainly one of the symptoms that can be caused by an air leak. A vacuum leak on a car engine will cause the engine to run poorly, but on a two stroke engine it can cause catastrophic damage. All of the lubrication that a two stroke gets is in the gas mix; it's mixed in at a ratio of (usually) 32:1 to 50:1, then the carburetotor introduces it into the engine at approximately 15 parts fuel mix to 85 parts air. This already is not much lube, so any air leak added to that quickly becomes a concern. Other guys on this forum can tell you more than I can about the burn rates/heat generation of lean fuel mix, but it's not good, so that adds to the issue. Adding more oil to the fuel mix isn't an answer either, as that can result in carbon buildup that brings it's own set of issues.
I like the sound of these a lot after looking at a few videos. That's a nice one! Do these normally come with the reed mufflers, and is there anything I should address on mine?
I will take one of each Mark, lolI would suggest you try to find one of the 10 Series saws with the left hand start as your first McCulloch. You can graduate to the RH start once you gain a little experience. Clutches, starters, etc. for the RH start saws can be trying for someone with less experience.
View attachment 1224235
There are no empty spaces on the shelves now...
Mark
If you want to see a good pressure/vacuum test check out Married with Small Engines on YouTube. Mostly Stihls though.Thanks! Air leak, as in like a vacuum leak on a car engine? Still learning 2-strokes, is this what people are describing when the engine speeds up if turned to one side or the other?
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