McCulloch Titan 50 57 lines

[mweba]

Spent the last couple hours figuring out the fuel, impulse, and oil lines on this saw. Ended up tearing a second down as a cheat sheet. Line needed is 1/4 OD 1/8 ID (fuel) and 6" of 3/16 OD 1/8 ID (oil line). I will add, there is limited area for several lines so the lengths have to be at a minimum.

Couple pics for future adventurers to cheat off.

 

[Modifiedmark]

I have heard guys cuss these saws before, now I can see why. What a figgin mess.

The might be a OK saw, I don't know, never messed with one myself.

After seein this,I'm not as sorry I turned one down last fall though. :msp_rolleyes:

 

[mweba]

I have heard guys cuss these saws before, now I can see why. What a figgin mess.

The might be a OK saw, I don't know, never messed with one myself.

After seein this,I'm not as sorry I turned one down last fall though. :msp_rolleyes:

I have three more here and I think this job is a deal breaker for the others to run. It is almost rediculous. Want me to send ya one LOL

They are strong runners though.

 

[briantutt]

---

I have heard guys cuss these saws before, now I can see why. What a figgin mess.

The might be a OK saw, I don't know, never messed with one myself.

After seein this,I'm not as sorry I turned one down last fall though. :msp_rolleyes:

I have one in my garage, now I see why it is in a million pieces

 

[leecopland]

titan 57 decompression

Hi folks,

My first posting, I picked up a Titan 57 and although it looks reasonable I can barely pull it over. I also have an old 380 which is an 87cc beast and have little trouble pulling it over. Is there a decompression valve I haven't found? I have no manual. Any thoughts welcome

Lee
Huntsville, Ontario

 

[leecopland]

part way there

I have my 57 partially stripped, carb off, but having a little trouble getting the handle/tanks separated from the motor. There are two odd looking screws at the front but they don't want to let go. Do you have to remove the manual oil pump? The fuel filter is an odd looking piece, long strip of what looks like felt. That came out along with the fuel line (broken) That explains no fire. There was however fuel in the carb? By the way it is now easier to pull over. It has a 20" b&c. The bar has a black coating, both seem reasonable, maybe these saws don't run long enough to wear things out! Kind of like an Italian Alfa.

Well I'll rebuild the walbro HDA while it's out, while I wait for help

Thanks,

Lee

 

[briantutt]

The one i have litteraly is in a million pieces take a pic of the screws and i will look at mine tonight and see if i can help

Brian

 

[Chris-PA]

I'm completely unfamiliar with the Titan saws - were they a separate brand for McCulloch, or just a different model range? What time frame were they produced?

 

[briantutt]

Not sure, I got my basket case from a guy at work, he grabbed four saws for $20 at a garage sale. all of them apart in pieces. I plan to get to mine this winter. The Titan's appear to be maybe the end of the actual McCullochs?

 

[leecopland]

frozen screws

The one i have litteraly is in a million pieces take a pic of the screws and i will look at mine tonight and see if i can help

Brian

The screw in question is bottom left of the wider angle pic. I believe they secure the handle/tank to the motor. A screw-lox driver fits it but they won't budge. I don't want to break anything. I was thinking of trying the screw-lox bit on an impact drill/driver.

Thanks for your help

PS just tried impact driver of course it worked. OMG what a bundle of snakes. Anybody want a parts saw?

 

[briantutt]

The screw in question is bottom left of the wider angle pic. I believe they secure the handle/tank to the motor. A screw-lox driver fits it but they won't budge. I don't want to break anything. I was thinking of trying the screw-lox bit on an impact drill/driver.

Thanks for your help

PS just tried impact driver of course it worked. OMG what a bundle of snakes. Anybody want a parts saw?

I will check mine out tonight. DO you have the IPL? I do, PM me your email.

 

[leecopland]

lines

Spent the last couple hours figuring out the fuel, impulse, and oil lines on this saw. Ended up tearing a second down as a cheat sheet. Line needed is 1/4 OD 1/8 ID (fuel) and 6" of 3/16 OD 1/8 ID (oil line). I will add, there is limited area for several lines so the lengths have to be at a minimum.

Couple pics for future adventurers to cheat off.

Hi there MWEBA, These photos are a great help. Any chance of id-ing the lines? I suppose one could leave out either the auto or manual oil lines to simplify things, as long it remained my saw. I would say you would need a couple of feet of line, in various lengths. The oil side seems to use two sizes of line. Getting this back together and working will provide a huge sense of achievement!

Thanks,
Lee

 

[briantutt]

Lee,

I failed, got distracted by the granddaughter. I will get on it tonight.

Brian

 

[briantutt]

The screw in question is bottom left of the wider angle pic. I believe they secure the handle/tank to the motor. A screw-lox driver fits it but they won't budge. I don't want to break anything. I was thinking of trying the screw-lox bit on an impact drill/driver.

Thanks for your help

PS just tried impact driver of course it worked. OMG what a bundle of snakes. Anybody want a parts saw?

I didn't even notice the PS part of this message. Just took pics and was going to tell you "yep, that screw is the rear handle anti-vibe peg." I don't even know if I have all of the parts for the saw I have but I think I will tackle this one next, looks pretty much brand new but fully taken apart.

 

[brokenbudget]

:hmm3grin2orangemg! the fuel lines on these saws are so easy a cave man can do it
i guess it's like anything else, if you do it a few times you get the hang of it. there was a year i did nothing but those fuel lines day in day out.
i see people struggling to get the lines in place, while trying to keep the 2 parts close together. this is the wrong and hard way. you need to seperate and do the lines on the handle first, then place the engine almost in place and trim the lines to fit. there is actualy quite a bit of room for the lines between the engine and handle. it isn't quite as tight as some may say. there are worse saws out there.


mweba: you need to have the 'clamp' on the pressure side of the manual oiler. otherwise the first time you push the button, you'll push the line off the pump body. it needs to be there. also, if any other 'clamps' are missing, you need them too.:msp_smile:

i can work on these with my eyes closed.

 

[briantutt]

:hmm3grin2orangemg! the fuel lines on these saws are so easy a cave man can do it
i guess it's like anything else, if you do it a few times you get the hang of it. there was a year i did nothing but those fuel lines day in day out.
i see people struggling to get the lines in place, while trying to keep the 2 parts close together. this is the wrong and hard way. you need to seperate and do the lines on the handle first, then place the engine almost in place and trim the lines to fit. there is actualy quite a bit of room for the lines between the engine and handle. it isn't quite as tight as some may say. there are worse saws out there.


mweba: you need to have the 'clamp' on the pressure side of the manual oiler. otherwise the first time you push the button, you'll push the line off the pump body. it needs to be there. also, if any other 'clamps' are missing, you need them too.:msp_smile:

i can work on these with my eyes closed.

Now I am more inspired to get mine together. Do you like the saw?

 

[brokenbudget]

Do you like the saw?

yes, however i'm a biased there a good saw.:msp_smile:

 

[leecopland]

fuel lines

Hi Brokenbudget, Thanks for the info and encouragement. Being a neophyte, where can I get those fuel/oil line clamps and is there a special tool to put them on? I picked up 2 feet of 1/4" tygone. @ a $ a foot I should have bought more I think. I purchased the thin black oil line off fleebay although the one on the saw looks OK. Looking down on the the handle there is a very short piece of line running cross ways on the right side, is that a breather? It doesn't seem to go anywhere.

A general question about fiddling with saws - what is the best way to clean all the oily sawdust off these beasts? I end up trailing it all over the house which doesn't make me popular with the missus. Maybe I need shop shoes.

Love this site and all the help that is out there.

Regards,

Lee

 

[brokenbudget]

yes that little short length the seems to go off to the right is or should be the tank vent.
if you don;t have the little crushable clamps or they fell apart, you can use small tie wire to hold the line in place. just be sure the wire is even and fully seated with no little hump where the wire is twisted together. i doesn't need to be animal tight, just tight enough you can see the wire depressing into the line. what ever you do make sure the wire isn't squeezing the line into a point at the twist, or else you'll have a leaker there.
change out ALL of the lines regardless of what they look like. you don't want to do this twice.
the line inside the fuel tank rarley goes bad. it's made of a different material that seems to last very good.

when i clean the saw, i have a bucket of hot water, a tooth brush and a sponge. i'll pull the parts off the saw and throw them into the bucket and let soak. i pull all the guts out of the pull start before i do this and the engine is blown and wiped down until clean.
do not put the coil in the water. same for the pull cord and spring.

 

[briantutt]

I use Simple Green mixed 50/50 and a tooth brush. Works awesome. I block off the intake port and the exhaust like the picture below and go to town. My wife gave me an ultrasonic cleaner last year that works awesome for anything that will fit in it, I use simple green 50/50 in that too. Blow everything off with air compressor once rinsed. For carbs I ultarsonic then blast the carb cleaner through them.