McCulloch Titan 50 57 lines

[leecopland]

You guys are awesome!! Brokenbudget, when you say tie wire what exactly is that and where could I get some. Also, does that mean that the crush-able clamps are not available? The switch module on mine has been messed with. The on switch was replaced and glued in place. I'm hoping the module will still come out by removing the roll pin. It would useful to I can separate handle and engine. Thanks again,

Lee

PS switch came out without touching the roll pin. The pictures above mainly show the oil lines. The the fuel lines come out the side of the tank but the tygone line doesn't fill the holes tightly. Do you need some type of grommet?

 

[briantutt]

Clutch

The oil lines on mine are hard as a rock and the one with the spring is cracked right in half. Do you need a special tool to remove the clutch? Goofy nut head on this one...

 

[StihlyinEly]

Well, I just picked up a 57 for $20, and it appears the only problem is the fuel lines are disintegrated. Now it looks like I better make up my mind to pull this sucker WAY apart and replace all the oil and fuel lines.

Ah well, at least this thread is a nice help!

 

[brokenbudget]

The oil lines on mine are hard as a rock and the one with the spring is cracked right in half. Do you need a special tool to remove the clutch? Goofy nut head on this one...

as said before, you don't need to pull the clutch.

 

[Wagnerwerks]

Clutch tool.

If this clutch nut is the same as the 4600, a 5/8 12pt fits. I know it's odd, but it works great. (Not saying you need to pull it for the lines:smile2

 

[briantutt]

If this clutch nut is the same as the 4600, a 5/8 12pt fits. I know it's odd, but it works great. (Not saying you need to pull it for the lines:smile2

Yep Socket took it right off. On a side note. If you pull the oil pump off you will be staring right at the main bearing. I am going to pop the cylinder off and clean this one out but if you aren't ready for it you will get crap in the bearing for sure.

 

[brokenbudget]

Yep Socket took it right off. On a side note. If you pull the oil pump off you will be staring right at the main bearing. I am going to pop the cylinder off and clean this one out but if you aren't ready for it you will get crap in the bearing for sure.

this is one of the reasons i tell people you do not need to take the oil pump off. good way to ruin a seal. more than enough room to get even the bigger set of hand in there with the clutch still on:smile2:

 

[briantutt]

this is one of the reasons i tell people you do not need to take the oil pump off. good way to ruin a seal. more than enough room to get even the bigger set of hand in there with the clutch still on:smile2:

Good point, when I get the seal and pump cleaned up I will look at the seal under a microscope for damage.

Is there a way to get that spring inside a new oil line?

Is the smaller black line coming from the manual oiler supposed to be rock hard?

 

[brokenbudget]

Good point, when I get the seal and pump cleaned up I will look at the seal under a microscope for damage.

Is there a way to get that spring inside a new oil line?

Is the smaller black line coming from the manual oiler supposed to be rock hard?

use a good quality line and you don't need any spring in it. mcculloch would send us line with the anti-kink coil in it already. never have had any issues with using the yellow 'tygone' fuel line.
that black rubber line should be pretty supple. change it out aswell.:smile2:
the crank seal is easy to get from any bearing and seal shop.
and make VERY sure that oil pump is sealed well. it's a good spot for an airleak.

 

[briantutt]

Boy this saw sure is a goofy thing. It's worse than the Johnny 590. At least it's made of metal...

Thanks for the pointers on the oil lines and seal.

 

[leecopland]

Good point, when I get the seal and pump cleaned up I will look at the seal under a microscope for damage.

Is there a way to get that spring inside a new oil line?

Is the smaller black line coming from the manual oiler supposed to be rock hard?

This black oil line is a hard plastic no need to replace if it's OK. But you do need to clamp the tygon line, from the manual oil pump, to it or the pressure will push them apart. Reuse existing clamps or tie wire.

Regards,

Lee

 

[brokenbudget]

This black oil line is a hard plastic no need to replace if it's OK. But you do need to clamp the tygon line, from the manual oil pump, to it or the pressure will push them apart. Reuse existing clamps or tie wire.

Regards,

Lee

yup! wasn't thinking while typing.:msp_rolleyes:

 

[leecopland]

yup! wasn't thinking while typing.:msp_rolleyes:

Don't I just sound like I know what I'm talking about!!!:msp_rolleyes:

Regards,

Lee

 

[leecopland]

parts needed

Brokenbudget

Steve here is a photo of the rubber fitting a the screw that I need as well as the switch unit. If I could get the switch unit with the wires attached that would be great as someone has butchered mine. Please let me know what I owe you and we can work out the best way to get it to you. Paypal or cheque in the post?

 

[brokenbudget]

Brokenbudget

Steve here is a photo of the rubber fitting a the screw that I need as well as the switch unit. If I could get the switch unit with the wires attached that would be great as someone has butchered mine. Please let me know what I owe you and we can work out the best way to get it to you. Paypal or cheque in the post?

ahh. that rubber.....:hmm3grin2orange: now i know what you mean!:smile2:

 

[old 040]

Spent the last couple hours figuring out the fuel, impulse, and oil lines on this saw. Ended up tearing a second down as a cheat sheet. Line needed is 1/4 OD 1/8 ID (fuel) and 6" of 3/16 OD 1/8 ID (oil line). I will add, there is limited area for several lines so the lengths have to be at a minimum.

Couple pics for future adventurers to cheat off.

just relined my titan 50 yesterday, took almost two hours, i wasn't going to fix the saw, but it allways ran great, it was the oiler that quit, due to the old lines breaking, i had replaced the fuel lines about three years ago, these saws wouldn't be worth repairing if they wern't youre own, but i'm glad its back in action, did a slight mm while i was in there, it really runs well now

 

[leecopland]

ahh. that rubber.....:hmm3grin2orange: now i know what you mean!:smile2:

Hi Steve,

With the fuel tank breather, I'm guessing that just a short piece of Tygon going straight up would be OK. I think I also may need a washer/spacer on the clutch shaft as the hub moves back and forth more than what looks normal.:msp_unsure:

Cheers,

Lee

 

[leecopland]

just relined my titan 50 yesterday, took almost two hours, i wasn't going to fix the saw, but it allways ran great, it was the oiler that quit, due to the old lines breaking, i had replaced the fuel lines about three years ago, these saws wouldn't be worth repairing if they wern't youre own, but i'm glad its back in action, did a slight mm while i was in there, it really runs well now

What bar and chain do you run on your Titan 50?

Regards,

Lee

 

[old 040]

What bar and chain do you run on your Titan 50?

Regards,

Lee

hi lee, i've had this saw for allmost 15 years now, it had a 20" b/c with 3/8 pitch, i'm also changing the drive sprocket today, all i could find listed was .325 drive sprockets listed, and only 3/8 pitch bars?, but the sprocket is the rim style, so i'm going to use a 3/8 rim, also going to run a 16" bar and chain, it allways was able to handle the 20" with no problem, just want to ease the load some to make this saw more fun to run

 

[briantutt]

Ultrasonic cleaner made the titan cylinder look Nos.

Brian