Milled With The Revised Mini-Mill Today Post 1

[820wards]

I'm interested in building a mill like yours and I've read your thread on how to build it. I've also read a lot of threads to find out how to start cutting.
How do you get the first straight flat cut? Do you measure up from the center at each end?
Do you have to unscrew the rails from the log with each cut?
Is the piece of wood for the rails a 2x6 or something you made just for this?
I've never seen a CSM and to me it seems that first cut would need to be perfectly flat as it determines the rest of the cuts.
Thanks
Rick

Rick,
You should also go through BobL's Tips/Trick for milling.

http://www.arboristsite.com/milling-saw-mills/93458.htm

It has very good information from various people as to how they setup for making cuts. When you then see the pictures I post you'll have it figured out.

jerry-

 

[Hillbilly Rick]

Jerry,
Thanks for the info. I've searched the other threads for hours and can't find anything on the very first set up with a CSM.
I look forward to your pics, heck, wish I could be there.
How does taper help when starting?
I've found that often people forget to include the "obvious" things when giving instruction. Like, hitting enter after a command on the computer, but if you've never used a computer before how would you know? This happened to me in a computer class. I had never even sat in front of one before.
Excellent instruction on the build, I like the details, especially for the remote throttle.
Thanks for your help,
Rick

 

[820wards]

Jerry,
Thanks for the info. I've searched the other threads for hours and can't find anything on the very first set up with a CSM.
I look forward to your pics, heck, wish I could be there.
How does taper help when starting?
I've found that often people forget to include the "obvious" things when giving instruction. Like, hitting enter after a command on the computer, but if you've never used a computer before how would you know? This happened to me in a computer class. I had never even sat in front of one before.
Excellent instruction on the build, I like the details, especially for the remote throttle.
Thanks for your help,
Rick

Rick,

Just checking my email before heading out this morning to mill. Hopefully by the end of the day I'll enough picture for you to see how I setup my logs to mill.
jerry-

 

[BobL]

Jerry,
Thanks for the info. I've searched the other threads for hours and can't find anything on the very first set up with a CSM.

Do you mean how to start a log?
The simplest way is to tek screw a 6 x 2" board to the top of a log and go for it?

There are many other set up

Eg this timber frame setup,
http://www.arboristsite.com/milling-saw-mills/93458.htm#post1454419
and this.

Ladders and Unistrut
http://www.arboristsite.com/milling-saw-mills/93458.htm#post1454512

More unistrut
http://www.arboristsite.com/milling-saw-mills/97620.htm

 

[820wards]

Do you mean how to start a log?
The simplest way is to tek screw a 6 x 2" board to the top of a log and go for it?

Bob, that's the part I forgot. I do tek screw the rail board to the top of the log or cant.

jerry-

 

[820wards]

Mini-Mill Setup 1

Jerry,
Thanks for the info. I've searched the other threads for hours and can't find anything on the very first set up with a CSM.

Rick,
Here is how I set my mini-mill up today.

Victim Log before trimming

Log trimmed on top to create a flat surface to mount rail board

Rail board mounted with tek screws to top of log. I used shims to keep the board level. I buy the package of door shims because they are real thin and allow me to fine adjust the rail board. I use 4" square head tek screws and pre-drill holes in the rail board prior to mounting. I used my big mill later in the day for the larger logs.

I used a small stump, blocks and wedges to steady the log so that it wouldn't move while milling. Worked great!

Here is my neighbor Simon starting the first side cap cut.

 

[820wards]

Mini-Mill Setup 2

Simon making the first cut and the dust deflector working good!

First side cap cut finished.

Grain looks good and cut is smooth.

Making second side cap cut.

Log was unscrewed and replaced on flat side of log to make the 3rd & 4th cuts.

 

[820wards]

Mini-Mill Setup 3

All four sides have been cut and are square.

Square cant is positioned on scrap wood at a 45* angle for milling with quarter saw attachment. The 45* angle keeps the saw and guide plate positioned so the plate rides on the surface of the wood and to keep the nose of the bar from hitting the ground or in my case the driveway.

Here the quarter saw plate is attached to the mini-mill and adjusted to 3-1/8" thickness.

Somewhere in these milling threads I saw someone who had built a log lifting rig similar to the one I made yesterday. I used 1-1/2" 1/4" wall tubing, some 1/2" thick x 2" wide x 3" long flat bar stock and a cement stake that is approximately 7/8" diameter. I cut the bar stock about 4" long and on one end cut them at a 45* angle. I was running low on argon so I stick welded it all together with some stainless steel arc welding rod.

 

[820wards]

Mini-Mill Setup 4

Side view of log lifter in use. Sure beats trying to move the logs with bars.

Looking down the boards you can see the mini-mill can make very straight cuts when you set everything up correctly.

Stack of Wood
Top boards were cut entirely with the mini mill. The bottom boards were capped with the big mill, then side caped on one side and then milled into slabs with the big mill. Middle boards were cut entirely with my big mill. All boards were cut to 3-1/8" thick. Over all, another fun/tiring day in the CA sun milling oak logs with my friends.

Rick, hope this helps. I've adapted this method from what others have posted here on this site. I seem to learn something every time I login.

jerry-

 

[BobL]

Nice set of pics - Thanks for posting Jerry.

 

[Hillbilly Rick]

Nice set of pics - Thanks for posting Jerry.

+1 Great pics and info. I had the impression the cut for the top was like a type of guide where every cut after that would be only as good as the first. I assumed(yeah I know)the first cut for the rail board would have to be perfectly straight and flat, and that would have to be done freehand which would be difficult at best.
Are you cutting 3 1/8" to resaw on a band saw or did you just need that size?
Thanks for all your help, I look forward to making my own soon.
Rick
PS I also learn every time I log on.

 

[820wards]

+1 Great pics and info. I had the impression the cut for the top was like a type of guide where every cut after that would be only as good as the first. I assumed(yeah I know)the first cut for the rail board would have to be perfectly straight and flat, and that would have to be done freehand which would be difficult at best.

Rick I forgot to mention that before I mount the rail board on the log, I look at the growth rings and rotate the log to see where I will get the best pieces of wood. I then mark the center pith with a sharpie and use a level to mark the log horizontally across the log. Then I will use the level and make a vertical line from top to bottom. I do this on both ends working off the center pith and once this is done you can then measure from the center line up where you want to make your first cut. Really what you are doing is marking cross-hairs on each end of the log you use to layout your cuts. Bluerider taught me that using the center pith to layout cuts will illuminate your wood from looking like you just cut plywood.

Are you cutting 3 1/8" to resaw on a band saw or did you just need that size?

Actually both. the live oak I milled wants check when it is milled too thin. By milling at 3" it reduced the the checking/cracking. You still get some, but not as much. The extra 1/8" allows for shrinkage. This wood I milled will be stored in a friends wine barrel room and will dry slow like I want. In about three years I hope to have figured out what I will be doing with it.

Thanks for all your help, I look forward to making my own soon.

The basic mini-mill I built took maybe an hour to cut the pieces out. The only piece that you really need to pay attention on making is the 1/2" thick piece of steel for bolting the chainsaw bar to, it must be welded on straight and parallel to the bottom of your rails. A good square is all you need. As for handles, use you imagination. The kids in my neighbor hood bring me their old bikes that I pilfer parts from.

jerry-

 

[820wards]

Nice set of pics - Thanks for posting Jerry.

Thanks, my neighbor has become my star model/operator. He's retired to so his wife lets us goof off together. The only time she got mad was when he pinched his finger in my log splitter. Fingers between wood and a 1" thick steel plate don't get along to well.

Hey, that cement mixer seems to be working out better for you. I've done the, mix cement in a bucket deal before and it's not fun. Hope you are keeping hydrated at the end of each day?

jerry-

 

[Hillbilly Rick]

820ward,
Thanks again, I can think of only 1 more question, have you had any problems with the throttle assy slipping on the handle?

 

[BobL]

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This wood I milled will be stored in a friends wine barrel room and will dry slow like I want. In about three years I hope to have figured out what I will be doing with it.
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Jerry, I hope the wine barrel room has enough ventilation. Unless there is some sort of dehumidifier in that room, if there is not enough ventilation green wood could go mouldy.

Now the real question is, does the room just have barrels, or do the barrels have something drinkable in them?

 

[820wards]

820ward,
Thanks again, I can think of only 1 more question, have you had any problems with the throttle assy slipping on the handle?

Rick,

When I made the throttle assembly, I allowed space for some adhesive backed rubber foam on the inside of the bracket so there is no plastic to metal contact. Having the foam rubber on the inside, I have found that the bracket does not slip at all once I tighten the thumb screws.

My neighbor just bought a used Husky 365 Special like mine, so I'll be building another throttle unit. If I make any changes to how I make that throttle assembly, I'll post those changes.

I'm gone until Monday.

jerry-

 

[820wards]

Jerry, I hope the wine barrel room has enough ventilation. Unless there is some sort of dehumidifier in that room, if there is not enough ventilation green wood could go moldy.

BobL, My brothers AC company set the building up just for his empty wine barrels to keep the humidity at a constant temperature and it moves the air in the building constantly. Here where I live it does get up to 108* in the summer time and it is very dry. All of the local winery's have humidifiers in their barrel storage buildings. If I remember correctly, my brother said they keep the building a 68* year round, but I don't remember what they have the humidity set at to keep the barrels from shrinking.

Now the real question is, does the room just have barrels, or do the barrels have something drinkable in them?

Empty barrels.... Darn! I know he is going to give me some wine for giving him some slabs as tasting tables.

jerry-

 

[Hillbilly Rick]

BobL, My brothers AC company set the building up just for his empty wine barrels to keep the humidity at a constant temperature and it moves the air in the building constantly. Here where I live it does get up to 108* in the summer time and it is very dry. All of the local winery's have humidifiers in their barrel storage buildings. If I remember correctly, my brother said they keep the building a 68* year round, but I don't remember what they have the humidity set at to keep the barrels from shrinking.



Empty barrels.... Darn! I know he is going to give me some wine for giving him some slabs as tasting tables.

jerry-

Jerry, I hate to be the bearer of bad news but 68* and high humidity pretty much mean mold, mildew and fungi. The barrels are most likely made of white oak which is very stable and not likely to shrink much anyway. White oak also has a natural waxy substance in its sap that helps prevent moisture damage. Air circulation may help but I would hate to see those nice slabs turned into a punky mess or a mushroom farm.
Seal your ends with Anchor seal, Green wood sealer or paraffin wax.
I have my own kiln but store my fresh cut lumber out side under a lot of weight, all sticker stacked, until it's time to load the kiln. The splits I have are normally where the pith is.I've dried green and air dried wood to 6% mc from 1" thick to 4 1/2" thick.
If the pith is included in your slabs they will most often split along it.
Best of luck,
Rick

 

[820wards]

Jerry, I hate to be the bearer of bad news but 68* and high humidity pretty much mean mold, mildew and fungi. The barrels are most likely made of white oak which is very stable and not likely to shrink much anyway. White oak also has a natural waxy substance in its sap that helps prevent moisture damage. Air circulation may help but I would hate to see those nice slabs turned into a punky mess or a mushroom farm.

Rick, good information. I have just stored wood in the past in ventilated sheds or along side my shop. I will check with this guy to find exactly what he keeps his barrel room moisture level at. The Live Oak I milled is very wet and noticed when I got home yesterday from being gone for four days has already started cracking at the pith.

Seal your ends with Anchor seal, Green wood sealer or paraffin wax.
I have my own kiln but store my fresh cut lumber out side under a lot of weight, all sticker stacked, until it's time to load the kiln. The splits I have are normally where the pith is.I've dried green and air dried wood to 6% mc from 1" thick to 4 1/2" thick.

I have sealed the wood with two coats of sealer so I hope that milling the slabs at 3-1/8", stacking and putting the weight I put on them will slow the cracking. It gets very warm and dry here where I live in the summer time

If the pith is included in your slabs they will most often split along it.

That is the place were they have cracked. The area of the slabs where the crotch is seems to be good.

Thanks for the info Rick.

jerry-

 

[Hillbilly Rick]

Jerry,
Always good to save a crotch:devil:. I think the reason they don't split as much is the grain going so many different ways.
Hot and dry should only affect the speed in which they dry, my kiln is 100- 120*F until the wood's dry and 140 to kill bugs.
Splitting seems to get me most when the slabs are thicker than 8/4", to me, split and planer snipe seem to be enough of a reality that I cut everything long in order to not ruin some choice grain figure.
I would think a full barrel would be a good trade for those crotch slab tables.