Millin' again

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aggiewoodbutchr said:
On the custom bar nut idea, would you mill them from mild steel then harden them or would you start with hardened material. I had a job in a machine shop in college but I've forgotten most of what I learned there.
sorry aggie, I'm no machinist, there are many on line here who are, you might ask elsewhere, maybe in the non-chainsaw area. I would tackle this by going to onlinemetals.com, getting a harder grade of metal, something equivalent to grade 6 or 8, then machine it from that. I have no experience hardening other than doing a little quick and dirty heating and quenching on my chisels. When tweaking and fixing things like your situation, I often compensate for harder material by making the existing part beefier, often a bit larger. Usually that works for me. Again, I'm no machinist, I'm mostly a woodworker, and ALWAYS learning there too.
 
Adrpk said:
Linseed oil does turn older wood dark. But new wood, I don't know. I use it to darken the wood a little but I don't want to keep getting darker and darker. What would you have used?

Adrpk, I use linseed oil on wood only occasionally, for something I want to keep oiling so it won't dry out, like the fence on a jig, or something outside like the handles on my wheelbarrow. For product I sell at shows, linseed oil doesn't dry fast enough for me, not even boiled, which drys faster than raw, and also it does darken all wood, new and old, and as it ages it will get even darker, especially in sunlight. I initially use Danish oil on almost all my product except things that touch food like bread boards. (they get walnut or sunflower oil). After a day drying, I can finish with lacquer or other. Danish oil will bring out the beauty and color of wood, and although it will darken it, more so for some woods like cherry or walnut, not as bad as pure linseed oil, and it won't continue to darken as much as linseed oil will.
 
Adrpk,
I use Tung oil alot(used to build humidors during the cigar craze), it initially darkens slightly, then stabilizes, forms a good protective barrier and can be sanded/repaired without re-doing the whole piece. I just apply it with a rag. The can will solidify over time if you don't use it up.
RD
 
MotorSeven said:
Adrpk,
I use Tung oil alot(used to build humidors during the cigar craze), it initially darkens slightly, then stabilizes, forms a good protective barrier and can be sanded/repaired without re-doing the whole piece. I just apply it with a rag. The can will solidify over time if you don't use it up.
RD
Got me. That was my next question. I have some tung oil. Thanks Motor. And I'll try that Danish oil someday too, thanks Woodshop.
 
"milling again" is correct...

It just doesn't stop... I just got a call from my Father_in_law, a black walnut tree blew down in his back yard last night, and "do I want any of it"? Guess what I'm doing after work this eve...
 
Oh you lucky woodshop. Get those pics of the inside up as soooon as posible. Love the inside of those slabs! Happy forth to all you arborsitsities. I'm off to the woodlot for some cabin building. OH, Boy!!
 
NOT "milling again"

Parts to fix the mill haven't come in yet.:angry2: :mad: :angry:

Maybe they'll be here tomorrow but I'm not holding my breath.
 
Adrpk said:
Oh you lucky woodshop. Get those pics of the inside up as soooon as posible. Love the inside of those slabs! Happy forth to all you arborsitsities. I'm off to the woodlot for some cabin building. OH, Boy!!
Have the take pics today and post. Anybody ever run into any black walnut that is not anything even close to brown, but a dark greenish black? I've run into purple colored walnut, and many shades of brown colored walnut, but never a dark greenish black like this. I figure it was some mineral in soil where it grew. It came from a place that was not well drained. Walnuts don't grow well in that environment. This tree was only 12" dia, and had a lot of sapwood also, but after ripping down to heartwood, still came home with 40 ft of this dark stuff. Enough to make a couple Shaker side tables if it drys OK. Even got a few nice crotch figured boards out of it. Good evening of milling.
 
aggiewoodbutchr said:
Parts to fix the mill haven't come in yet.:angry2: :mad: :angry:

Maybe they'll be here tomorrow but I'm not holding my breath.

Aggie, looked at your pic again. I think this is something you could make from metal stock with just a vice, hacksaw, grinder, metal files, drill and a good tap and die set. (drill press would help a whole lot). If this is a part that might break again, you might want to make up a couple of these and stick them in your toolbox in case it happens again. Nothing worse than wasting a day somewhere after preparing, packing up, driving somewhere and then your equipment fails you to where it can't be fixed in the field. Almost as bad as when you do something stupid like forget a major part of your setup. I once drove an hour to a log, got set up and realized I had left my Ripsaw blades back in the shop. Lucky for me my wife bailed me out that day, ran them up to me, AND she even brought me a mug of hot chocolate, as it was a bitter cold day. (yup, she's a keeper).
 
aggiewoodbutchr said:
Parts to fix the mill haven't come in yet.:angry2: :mad: :angry:

Maybe they'll be here tomorrow but I'm not holding my breath.

After looking at the picture, do you think a "hex coupling nuts" would work if you id the diameter and thread size. Most coupling nuts are case hardened, come in sae and metric sizes and can be purchased at most hardware stores.

Kevin
 
flht01 said:
After looking at the picture, do you think a "hex coupling nuts" would work if you id the diameter and thread size. Most coupling nuts are case hardened, come in sae and metric sizes and can be purchased at most hardware stores.

Kevin

Thanks.

I've been looking for 10mm threaded couplers locally since these striped out but have had no luck. I guess I'll have to order them.
 
aggiewoodbutchr said:
Thanks.

I've been looking for 10mm threaded couplers locally since these striped out but have had no luck. I guess I'll have to order them.

...could you get by temporarily with several nuts welded together if you have access to a welder? Thread them onto a bolt, snug them up only loosley against one another and then run several beads down the sides. Quick and dirty, but might get you by till the parts came or you could make good ones.

Aggie, we're just trying to get you millin' again, thats all.:blob2:
 
I appreciate the concern and suggestions. I am suffering from mild milling withdraw symptoms but sharpening chains and doing some PM on the saw is keeping me stable. (sortta):dizzy:
 
Settin' up some logs for the mill

I moved some logs that I could handle from the mill yard to my house yesterday. I get on 'em as soon as I find parts to fix the GB mill or I may just pull out the home made rig it that takes too long.

Ain't machines great!:D
 
Is that red oak bark I see on that log? Maybe a bit of spalting? Is that a load of stone on that pallet between the logs? Curious what you're going to do with it and why you need to put it under roof?

I want one of them little machines to move logs around.
 
With summer vacations and all, I think we all need to learn to multi-task and fill in the voids.

So here is my attempt at filling temporary vacancies,,,,,,,,

"Wow, and you posted those pictures like your proud of your work!, what a joke!

By the end of that log , I can tell that you know nothing about how to fell a tree, maybe getting rid of your orange and white rip-off junk and getting a real saw will help?

Did you ever think that having a saw like that in the first place might have been what broke your mill?

Yaah!, keep the pictures coming and I will tell you what your doing wrong!

Sure are some losers here that think that can mill.
"



Hope this helps fill-in , we just need to get tuff and stick it out, things will be back to normal soon!

Kevin
 
These are water oaks. I knocked off the remaining bark last night to try to stop any additional decay. These have been sitting since April so there may be some spalting. We'll see soon!

Those rocks were left here by the previous owner. I put them there so I don't have to mow around them. They'll eventually be used for landscaping in the yard.
 
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ShoerFast said:
By the end of that log , I can tell that you know nothing about how to fell a tree, maybe getting rid of your orange and white rip-off junk and getting a real saw will help?

This tree was pushed over by an excavator and bucked by a contractor (not me) with a little husky & an 18" bar. But you are correct, I know nothing about how to fell a tree. I'm just the recipient of the logs.

ShoerFast said:
Yaah!, keep the pictures coming and I will tell you what your doing wrong!

HAHA. Keep responding and I'll tell you how you are interpreting the pictures wrong!:hmm3grin2orange:
:cheers:
 
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