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I have an oak down on a job. Like it fell out of heaven. Funny thing, I had been telling the customer that this particular tree was the one to fell in their woods. It was a leaner and was the tallest. Blocking all the light. Strong wind blew it down. Micro burst. Buried the 36 inch bar on it today. Might be hollow, bummer.
I'll see tommorow. I wasn't able to get the chunk I cut out of the trunk. Oh, ya Aggie you have some nice toys. Keep feeding us with the pics. Love it.
 
Aggie is that osage orange I see stickered to the left in the pic ending 3399? ...maybe Mulberry? ...or is it just the way the light is that it looks yellow?
 
woodshop said:
Aggie is that osage orange I see stickered to the left in the pic ending 3399? ...maybe Mulberry? ...or is it just the way the light is that it looks yellow?

Boy I wish it was.:) Nope, just pine.
 
Adrpk said:
I have an oak down on a job. Like it fell out of heaven. Funny thing, I had been telling the customer that this particular tree was the one to fell in their woods. It was a leaner and was the tallest. Blocking all the light. Strong wind blew it down. Micro burst. Buried the 36 inch bar on it today. Might be hollow, bummer.
I'll see tommorow. I wasn't able to get the chunk I cut out of the trunk. Oh, ya Aggie you have some nice toys. Keep feeding us with the pics. Love it.

Thanks.

What kind of oak is it? Oaks down here are all over the spectrum of physical properties. Beware of reaction wood since it was a leaner. If you look closely at the cell phone pics you can the ends of the loose board is raised about 1/2". As the cut went down the length of the cant, the board raised itself over an inch at the end before it was cut loose. If the pressure is in the opposite direction it could cause the saw to bind. At the very least your cut quality will suffer because the chain on the return side will gouge in. Driving wedges into the kerf every few feet will prevent this.

Have fun and post pics!
:cheers:
 
aggiewoodbutchr said:
Thanks.

What kind of oak is it? Oaks down here are all over the spectrum of physical properties. Beware of reaction wood since it was a leaner. If you look closely at the cell phone pics you can the ends of the loose board is raised about 1/2". As the cut went down the length of the cant, the board raised itself over an inch at the end before it was cut loose. If the pressure is in the opposite direction it could cause the saw to bind. At the very least your cut quality will suffer because the chain on the return side will gouge in. Driving wedges into the kerf every few feet will prevent this.

Have fun and post pics!
:cheers:
Not sure what kind it is. Red oak, yes but what red oak I haven't looked into it. I don't have any close ups of the leaves. I have seen the raising board action but thanks for opposite direction idea. I'll get back to it Monday, too messed up a day for that today. I'll post a new thread once I get to slabbing.
I have to sneak it though. The customer dosen't want me playing chainsaw when the retaining wall sits unfinished.
 
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Adrpk said:
Which one do wish it was? We have tons of mulberry around here. Is it good for something?

Ether one. I've seen mulberry lumber and it looked nice. Never worked with though. Osage orange is nice too but hard to find anymore. Most people cut it down because the fruit is a nuisance.
 
Adrpk said:
Not sure what kind it is. Red oak, yes but what red oak I haven't looked into it. I don't have any close ups of the leaves. I have seen the raising board action but thanks for opposite direction idea. I'll get back to it Monday, too messed up a day for that today. I'll post a new thread once I get to slabbing.
I have to sneak it though. The customer dosen't want me playing chainsaw when the retaining sits unfinished.


Red oak from your parts is usually nice. I hardly mess with it here anymore because it checks & splits horribly.
 
Adrpk said:
Which one do wish it was? We have tons of mulberry around here. Is it good for something?

Mulberry is nice wood to work in the woodshop, not too hard, but hard enough for small furniture, frames, things like that. It has a pleasant yellowish color, not as yellow as osage orange, more towards light tan but with a yellow tinge, and nice looking grain patterns. In some circles, good pieces are worth a nice chunk of change. At one point the Japanese were paying a lot for it.

Osage orange on the other hand, is pretty stuff, and I grab every little piece I can find. In this area, usually that means small logs full of voids and defects, and I have to work to get useful pieces out of them. It is hard, and you can sand/buff it very smooth to where you can almost get a hard durable glossy finish with just oil and a coat of wax. I use it making jigs where I need a small piece of hard tough wood as a fence or a stop.
 

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