Milling a Mantle

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So over the winter, these have been in the garage drying. One has split almost from end to end on both top and bottom. Can I use a wood filler? Do I need to? Will I still be able to hang and not worry about it?

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I have a 2.5" cherry slab that did that as well and I think I am going to use this guys technique (video link below) to save as much wood as possible. Mine is almost split near in two, so there's no wood filler option for me.

Basically you table saw it apart to get rid of he cup, crack, and stress on the piece, then you can glue it back together and it'll be maybe a saw blade kerf or 3 thinner but flat.

 
[QUOTE="Yellowbeard, post: 5510331, member: 111813"I may be overly paranoid, but that's how I like to practice. I.[/QUOTE]

Yes.
 
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Seems like a lot of work to cut out the crack. I would just tape the bottom and fill any cracks with epoxy.

My first time doing this the tape didn't stay and bubbled and leaked on the bottom. Probably just cheap tape and didn't do a good enough job prepping the surface before taping.

Would consider using some reinforcement in the form of plywood next time I have a large crack to full.
 
Could you just fill one side with epoxy let it dry then flipped over and fill the other side with epoxy let it dry and be good to go

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Could you just fill one side with epoxy let it dry then flipped over and fill the other side with epoxy let it dry and be good to go

The first time I did that the epoxy eventually found its way right though the crack and glued one end of the plan onto my WW bench.
Now I use duct tape to seal the underside.

BTW to remove tha bark and still retain a natural edge use an angle grinder with a soft wire brusk on it and gently swipe at the park with the brush running parallel to the bark. It takes the bark off and leaves a very natural looking edge.
 
Wait a while
I cut a California Walnut out of our creek and CSMed it into 3-inch slabs 12-to-14 ft long (very heavy); dried it with stickers under tin roof for 3 years to make "Claro" out of it. Then used 13-inch surface planer to remove chainsaw washboard marks from a 10x3x75-inch portion of it; then chamfered one side and ends of it to make the mantle shown in the pic. I believe that end-painting to minimize checking is over-rated (especially in our dry climate -- but I do it anyway) and like BobL says: allow for each end which has checked to be sawed off. Nobody told the OP that he'd hafta wait a long while nor that end-painting won't guarantee no checking.
 

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Any suggestions on a type of epoxy? About how long does this have to cure?

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