Milling Picture Thread

[U&A]

The only concern I see with this “tall” setup for super deep cuts working your way up as we are talking about is you REALLY REALLY will need to do your part in keeping the saw bar parallel to the ladder. I can imagine a bit of a “swinging” effect cutting super deep if you’re not patient with the cut speed.

i can obviously see plenty of other things thst can be compounding issues. Id still like to try it at some point..

Possibly over thinking it

 

[Coralillo Lo Pro]

I think the road i plan to take with this (if the money follows) is the large diameter stuff as a portable setup.

If you have access to the large diameter stuff, it's where it's at. There are so many bandsaw mills to compete with in these parts I'd never try to sell slabs here, as they're knocking them out with far less effort in greater quantity up to 36" or so. Even for my own personal use, I don't know how many more 20-30" trees I want to mill, I have way more wood than I need for the foreseeable future in that range. The whole idea of chainsaw milling has always been to focus on the trees that most bandsaw mills can't handle, or when portable mill-in-place is needed.

I can imagine a bit of a “swinging” effect cutting super deep if you’re not patient with the cut speed.

I sort of wondered about that myself. Would have to try it and see. I'm not sure I'd want to do it more than 10-11" deep with regular posts.

 

[kenmbz]

First manual joint up with thin kerf circular saw and router.
Home made router sled to flatten.

 

[U&A]

First manual joint up with thin kerf circular saw and router.
Home made router sled to flatten.
View attachment 1187930
View attachment 1187931

Im not much of a wood worker for building stuff yet so excuse my ignorance but did you just glue that? It blows my mind what wood glue is capable of.

Or does that have the biscuit things in it too?

 

[kenmbz]

Im not much of a wood worker for building stuff yet so excuse my ignorance but did you just glue that? It blows my mind what wood glue is capable of.

Or does that have the biscuit things in it too?

glue plus 4 dowels for strength.

 

[Coralillo Lo Pro]

It blows my mind what wood glue is capable of.

If you do really perfect joints, wood glue alone is tremendously strong, especially on slabs with a ton of glue face. But it's hard to do a joint perfect enough without a jointer (and hard to run big slab halves through a jointer). A big track saw with a really good blade can about get you a glue ready joint. I don't own a jointer still, so I've never trusted any joints only to glue so far except in small projects. A good suggestion I got is cleaning up a circular or track saw cut joint to perfection by running a router along a straight guide with a long spiral upcut bit to smooth it and straighten it to glue ready. Planning to make some huge dining tables out of some of my sycamore, poplar, and white oak slabs and going to try that out. I'd really like to get to the elusive level of perfect nearly invisible joints, have done some close but always a little visible.

 

[SS396driver]

If you do really perfect joints, wood glue alone is tremendously strong, especially on slabs with a ton of glue face. But it's hard to do a joint perfect enough without a jointer (and hard to run big slab halves through a jointer). A big track saw with a really good blade can about get you a glue ready joint. I don't own a jointer still, so I've never trusted any joints only to glue so far except in small projects. A good suggestion I got is cleaning up a circular or track saw cut joint to perfection by running a router along a straight guide with a long spiral upcut bit to smooth it and straighten it to glue ready. Planning to make some huge dining tables out of some of my sycamore, poplar, and white oak slabs and going to try that out. I'd really like to get to the elusive level of perfect nearly invisible joints, have done some close but always a little visible.

I used a jointer on this countertop to do the edges . But I also used biscuits for reinforcement

 

[kenmbz]

I used a thin kerf circular saw blade 60 teeth with a straight edge.
Then a router following a straight edge with a 2" flush trim bit.
Followed by a small amount of edge sanding and hand plane to get as flat a joint as possible.

I used dowels instead of biscuits as they add more twist strength. I was less worried about the alignment as I have used my homemade router sled to flatten the whole 7 foot length.

Each slab is about 12" and only two slabs, keeping the live edge for each side.

Will sit about 40" high, bar height, when complete.

Did rough sanding yesterday, now to do finish sanding and wait for resin epoxy to arrive to fill in split, then a bunch of coats of spar varnish to finish.