Milling Picture Thread

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The only concern I see with this “tall” setup for super deep cuts working your way up as we are talking about is you REALLY REALLY will need to do your part in keeping the saw bar parallel to the ladder. I can imagine a bit of a “swinging” effect cutting super deep if you’re not patient with the cut speed.

i can obviously see plenty of other things thst can be compounding issues. Id still like to try it at some point..

Possibly over thinking it
 
I think the road i plan to take with this (if the money follows) is the large diameter stuff as a portable setup.
If you have access to the large diameter stuff, it's where it's at. There are so many bandsaw mills to compete with in these parts I'd never try to sell slabs here, as they're knocking them out with far less effort in greater quantity up to 36" or so. Even for my own personal use, I don't know how many more 20-30" trees I want to mill, I have way more wood than I need for the foreseeable future in that range. The whole idea of chainsaw milling has always been to focus on the trees that most bandsaw mills can't handle, or when portable mill-in-place is needed.

I can imagine a bit of a “swinging” effect cutting super deep if you’re not patient with the cut speed.
I sort of wondered about that myself. Would have to try it and see. I'm not sure I'd want to do it more than 10-11" deep with regular posts.
 
It blows my mind what wood glue is capable of.
If you do really perfect joints, wood glue alone is tremendously strong, especially on slabs with a ton of glue face. But it's hard to do a joint perfect enough without a jointer (and hard to run big slab halves through a jointer). A big track saw with a really good blade can about get you a glue ready joint. I don't own a jointer still, so I've never trusted any joints only to glue so far except in small projects. A good suggestion I got is cleaning up a circular or track saw cut joint to perfection by running a router along a straight guide with a long spiral upcut bit to smooth it and straighten it to glue ready. Planning to make some huge dining tables out of some of my sycamore, poplar, and white oak slabs and going to try that out. I'd really like to get to the elusive level of perfect nearly invisible joints, have done some close but always a little visible.
 
If you do really perfect joints, wood glue alone is tremendously strong, especially on slabs with a ton of glue face. But it's hard to do a joint perfect enough without a jointer (and hard to run big slab halves through a jointer). A big track saw with a really good blade can about get you a glue ready joint. I don't own a jointer still, so I've never trusted any joints only to glue so far except in small projects. A good suggestion I got is cleaning up a circular or track saw cut joint to perfection by running a router along a straight guide with a long spiral upcut bit to smooth it and straighten it to glue ready. Planning to make some huge dining tables out of some of my sycamore, poplar, and white oak slabs and going to try that out. I'd really like to get to the elusive level of perfect nearly invisible joints, have done some close but always a little visible.
I used a jointer on this countertop to do the edges . But I also used biscuits for reinforcement IMG_7396.jpegIMG_7402.jpegIMG_7513.jpeg
 
I used a thin kerf circular saw blade 60 teeth with a straight edge.
Then a router following a straight edge with a 2" flush trim bit.
Followed by a small amount of edge sanding and hand plane to get as flat a joint as possible.

I used dowels instead of biscuits as they add more twist strength. I was less worried about the alignment as I have used my homemade router sled to flatten the whole 7 foot length.

Each slab is about 12" and only two slabs, keeping the live edge for each side.

Will sit about 40" high, bar height, when complete.

Did rough sanding yesterday, now to do finish sanding and wait for resin epoxy to arrive to fill in split, then a bunch of coats of spar varnish to finish.
 
Got back to this a bit late, but would agree with JD that any kind of multiple cut approach like that is asking to compound inconsistency. I use a ladder guide every cut just so I don't compound inconsistency. I did white oak about 9' long and 9/4 and did a lot of 28-32" slabs myself and they weren't that hard to slide off to one side and stack them. Granted, yours are going to be way heavier, but with a helper are easily stackable. Glad you figured out the minor washboarding was going too fast with skip, suspected that was most likely. There's the long held argument many CSM folks use that finish doesn't matter that much because it will have to be leveled again later, but again it's a matter of compounding inconsistency. People think that the leveling you do to take out any drying warp will take out all the washboarding at the same time. It won't necessarily. The warp and the washboarding may be compounded problems. Comes down to how much waste and extra work later one can tolerate. After doing about the same amount of work all over again as milling to router plane level a lot of my slabs, because I milled them somewhat poorly or didn't take enough care strapping and stacking and retightening the straps relentlessly, I've come to realize it saves me a ton of time in the long run to mill and dry everything as perfectly as I can.

If it's raw slabs for customers, you'll get way better money with a clean finish. If it's for yourself, you'll save a lot of work later on and waste less wood by making slabs as perfectly level and clean as you can to start with. I used to buy only skip chain when milling w the 880, wanting to get the milling done as fast as possible, but since milling primarily with lo pro I can use full comp up to 30" and get bandsaw like clean cuts and fast milling so I've lost interest in any form of skip til 30"+ slabs. Haven't ever gotten a shot at anything 40"+ so I only have theories so far on what will work best for that. Seems "double skip" may work well at that size, but yet to test any. From what I've heard from others tackling big oaks, it seems that the smoothness of full comp may offset any easier cutting that full skip gives, because if the full skip is oscillating it's taking out more of a kerf and doing more work and ultimately requiring the same amount of effort from the saw and you may not even be milling any faster. I also wonder if really fine chips from dense hardwoods are even that much of a factor as far as the clearing ability of a chain, compared to big softwood chips. Again, why it seems to me 3/8 or 3/8LP make much more sense in dense hardwoods, the chip clearing benefits of larger chain may be an non factor vs the enormously greater power that larger chain requires in dense hardwoods.
In my experience hardwood chips slow the cut and heat up b& c in the process. Square chisel skip worked down to 5-10° has worked very well for me in milling up to 60" b&c combo. Comp chain binds up with the chips in anything over 36". 30" lo pro works well once again each sharpening working closer to 5° to reduce side push of the cutter
Had a man compare my cs milling favorably to the professional band saw milling he'd done as a career. That was with 50" bar thru healthy elm log
 
In my experience hardwood chips slow the cut and heat up b& c in the process. Square chisel skip worked down to 5-10° has worked very well for me in milling up to 60" b&c combo. Comp chain binds up with the chips in anything over 36". 30" lo pro works well once again each sharpening working closer to 5° to reduce side push of the cutter
Had a man compare my cs milling favorably to the professional band saw milling he'd done as a career. That was with 50" bar thru healthy elm log
Great info. Lightning Performance also echoed the notion that full comp binds up with the chips past a certain point. I thought I'd reached it with lo pro at 30" after some trouble resawing/leveling dried ultra hard red oak (pushed too hard and snapped a chain) but that was just a matter of the chain being too dull I think. Later in softwood cypress I cut 30" effortlessly with 3/8 lo pro. Lightning said in his experience performance began to lag after 18-20 cutters were engaged. In 3/8 spacing, full comp is a bit less than 1.5". Full skip 3/8 is 2". Full comp .404 is 1 5/8". Full skip .404 is 2 3/8". While you may begin to slow from chips with 18-20 cutters engaged, I think you can run up to 24 cutters engaged before chips really start to be a problem. That equates to close to 36" in 3/8, and 48" in full skip 3/8". Obviously you can mill bigger logs than that with the respective chains, it's just less than ideal. As a rule of thumb, I think I'll try to keep 20 cutters engaged as a kind of max, which means switching to skip (or a Granberg grind) in 3/8 or 3/8LP at around 30", and switching to "double skip" (basically Granberg grind with scoring pairs of teeth completely removed) for anything over 40". Since I just plan to run full comp or double skip with my 3/8LP setups, I'll run full comp on my 36" LP bar (30" max cut) and double skip on my 48" LP bar (42" max cut). That way I can make up all my chain loops from the same roll of 3/8LP full comp and not have to buy separate rolls of full skip. More than likely for anything over 40" I ever do I'll drag out my 72" .404 bar and run double skip .404 on it.
 
I took these pictures of the Cooks 32 model electric I had them build for me a number of years ago. The resaw attachment they sell is on it in some pictures. It can do 10"8" or so with the resaw as pictured. It is basically their 16' electric package optioned with all the jacks on the side, none on the end, two taper adjusters but they have white boards in them instead that makes a deck of sorts. I think the 3 squaring arms are an extra as well, they are kind of close together. 1/4 turn up then 3 turns down gives me a 1" board and 1/3 turn up and 5 turns down gives me a 1 3/4" board which is what generally I make not counting the core piece three of which are visible in the first picture.


cooks electric milll with scrap trailer on right.jpg


cooks mill with resaw attachment.jpg

cooks mill no resaw attachment sawdust collection in clean mode.jpg

scrap dump.jpg
 
I used a thin kerf circular saw blade 60 teeth with a straight edge.
Then a router following a straight edge with a 2" flush trim bit.
Followed by a small amount of edge sanding and hand plane to get as flat a joint as possible.
Yup, a decent router does a great job of edge jointing... I do have a jointer, but a router works fine, it just takes longer.

SR
 
Cut some walnut slabs today, cut them pretty thick because they're green and I know they'll warp up some. I don't have a kiln, so I'm waiting and counting on air drying. They're short unfortunately, that's as big as my buddy's ride-on would pickup,lol
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Walnut crotch is always got character. The bow will possibly be worse than the warp. Curl comes backwards of the ring on many slabs 4 me
 
Cut some walnut slabs today, cut them pretty thick because they're green and I know they'll warp up some. I don't have a kiln, so I'm waiting and counting on air drying. They're short unfortunately, that's as big as my buddy's ride-on would pickup,lol
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What are your plans for those slabs? Did you end seal each one? May split bad if you don't.
 
Walnut crotch is always got character. The bow will possibly be worse than the warp. Curl comes backwards of the ring on many slabs 4 me
My plan is to stick stack them, put the nicer ones on the bottom so hopefully the weight will prevent them warping as bad. that's also why I cut the 4-5" thick, so I've got plenty to cut, plane, sand away to even them out after drying.
 
My buddy's want a few, other than that I don't know what I gonna do with them. What's recommended for end sealing? Google says anchor seal and such
Yes, Anchor seal or the like. I use melted wax. 4-5" thick would make good bowl blanks. Do you have and woodturning clubs in your area? Might be able to sell a few. Don't expect a lot though.
 
My plan is to stick stack them, put the nicer ones on the bottom so hopefully the weight will prevent them warping as bad. that's also why I cut the 4-5" thick, so I've got plenty to cut, plane, sand away to even them out after drying.
Good plan and there is potential for splitting tha thickness to more pieces. As far as bowl blanks ask a lot. Easier to come down as seller than go up, unless there is a bidding War lol ,the bow (cross grain) may be attractive to some bowl carvers
 

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