Milling question

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Just getting started and was wondering if a Stihl 044 is big enough to mill with? What would be the maxinum bar size?
 
Just getting started and was wondering if a Stihl 044 is big enough to mill with?

sure.

What would be the maxinum bar size?

i would guess that the largest hardwoods that you could mill without too much frustration would max out in the 16" range, softwoods you could probably go 20". so you'd be looking at perhaps a 24" bar? i'm not sure what size alaskan that would be. i'd just fab my own.
:)
 
I have a 039M which is the same size in displacement. I have a 32" bar for it which will net 26" cut when mounted in my mill. It is a bit under powered when maxed out but for 12-18" wide stuff it works fine. It will pull 32" of chain when cross cutting, it won't cut like my 075 but it will still make the cut
 
sure.



i would guess that the largest hardwoods that you could mill without too much frustration would max out in the 16" range, softwoods you could probably go 20". so you'd be looking at perhaps a 24" bar? i'm not sure what size alaskan that would be. i'd just fab my own.
:)

How much of a pain is it to build your own mill? Most everything we cut is 2' or less and I'm running a 36" bar on my 044.
 
Just getting started and was wondering if a Stihl 044 is big enough to mill with? What would be the maxinum bar size?
Definitely big enough to mill with.
As far as bar size -
It's not the size of the bar, it's the size and hardness of the wood your going to stick it in.

A muf modded 044 (71cc), in otherwise good condition, should be putting out about 5.5hp. My JD CS 62 puts out about 4.4HP. I easily milled 15" red maple, slowly milled 20" red maple, using a 28" bar, didn't attempt anything larger.

So I would put out a SWAG that if everything is right, sharp chain, good saw, opened up the muffler (relatively easy) clean filter etc. you should be able to do up to 25" on occasion, 20" routinely.

Now how big a bar you need depends on how you are milling it. A MK-III with a 30" rail set will do 26" and requires a 32" bar for that cut. If you go home-built with holes thru the bar you could probably get by with a 28" or 30" bar.

Now I don't know about your wood, but due to curves and crotches when I was doing 20" wood I was using every inch that I could get (I think about 22") with the 28" bar on the MK-III.

Note that over on chainsaw forum there was a discussion about longer than needed bars, and I got this response:
<snip>
gemniii - awesome looking bars - but what did you do to the one in the foreground that it is in splints? :laugh:

attachment.php


That's right, the portion of that long bar sticking out beyond the cut requires very little energy to drive in comparison to the portion that is doing the cutting. So if you want a longer bar just in case, it won't cost you much in gasoline (but it may get in your way). If you choose to run a long bar in small work, your chain will last longer without loss of cutting speed. But your saw better be rated for the long bar in case you use the full length!
<snip>

So if you get a bar that's a little long, no problem as long as you don't bury it in the cut.

So if I was youse I'd be looking to get at least a 32" bar, if not a 36", but 42" like on mine in the pic, would be overkill.

But then there's this:
I know Ive posted this a couple times but I think youll get the Idea. Stock 032 41" bar skip chain 30" dry doug fir. Would I do this on a regular basis? never But it shows 4" of bar prolly wont be a deal breaker.

/edit - I was composing this as the OP posted he had a 36" bar.
Look to the original post for a good video of an 032 cutting w/ a 42" bar.
 
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