Milling with Jonsered 2083 turbo

[JCJessen]

I am new to this forum. Sorry is I ask stupid questions.

I would like to get into milling (Alaskan). I have some large trees (pine, walnut, oak) on my property that I have to take down and “play” with. The largest have stems with diameter +50”, but I will probably start with some smaller ones.

I am thinking setup with 36” bar to a start.

The supply of used (affordable) large saws are limited here in Denmark. I found a Jonsered 2083 a reasonable price (350 US $). Does anyone know if this saw is usable for milling or should I break the bank and go with a fully renovated ms 660 for almost the double?

 

[CTYank]

Howdy, JC. It depends. Milling is pretty severe duty, especially starting w/36". Saw had better be in top shape & properly adjusted, then with razor-sharp chains, well-fed. What will suffice will depend on your long-term usage and ability to care for equipment. $350 for Jonny 2083 sounds very good- have you given it a thorough physical? Know its history? For starters, compression test, pull muffler for cyl. bore inspection, pull covers to see how it's been taken care of. Got a friend who can check its health?
Right now I'm getting my hands properly filthy milling NE US hardwoods w/32" bar on Husqy 576AT. Running 10 min. straight, it hardly breaks a sweat in bitternut hickory, but needs constant monitoring. Won't take much convincing for me to go for a 395XP.
You probably don't want to keep incrementally upgrading equipment as you get into this, so it's your call as to how much is enough for now. I'd suggest a saw that you can and will use for other purposes or be able to convert back into cash.
Besides the Alaskan for slabbing, you might want to look at Granberg 555 "Mini-Mill" for edging. Once you're removed a first slab, with it you can then start ripping the log down to size for further slabbing. For non-oversize logs, I like to be able to rip down the middle- the half-slabs are half the weight, more easily managed, and the straight edge makes ripping finished product simple after drying.
It's so easy to produce tons of expensive firewood, I'd suggest serious research into lumber drying and prep for that before starting. Enjoy!

 

[BobL]

I found a Jonsered 2083 a reasonable price (350 US $). Does anyone know if this saw is usable for milling or should I break the bank and go with a fully renovated ms 660 for almost the double?

J'red 2083 is a 76 cc saw probably best left for logs at 24" and under, I reckon you'd be better off with ~ 90 cc to mill 30" wood.

FWIW I use a 441 with 25" bar on logs narrower than 20" above that the bigger saws are usually used.

 

[SeMoTony]

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I am new to this forum. Sorry is I ask stupid questions.

I would like to get into milling (Alaskan). I have some large trees (pine, walnut, oak) on my property that I have to take down and “play” with. The largest have stems with diameter +50”, but I will probably start with some smaller ones.

I am thinking setup with 36” bar to a start.

The supply of used (affordable) large saws are limited here in Denmark. I found a Jonsered 2083 a reasonable price (350 US $). Does anyone know if this saw is usable for milling or should I break the bank and go with a fully renovated ms 660 for almost the double?

Welcome The biggest badest saw you can afford. I began with a ms-170 and a rig like "beam-maker" for small (12' square) post at most. This week a 661 MMWS will show up to complement my 066 on a 72" dual power head canon bar due in a few weeks. Same on Alaskan or similar (can be self made), next size wider cut than you expect. Read as much as you can in milling 101 and practice safety at every opportunity. The only question which is stupid is the one not asked. Study, learn, grow with us show what you do & we will all learn with each other.

 

[Justsaws]

The 2083/2077 are getting difficult to source parts here. The best thing about the 1122 series Stihl is the huge availability of parts available. Pistons, cylinders and cranks would be what I would check on before making the initial investment in a saw model for milling. Hopefully would never need to repair it however if needed what is the cost comparison and ease of parts between the two. Beyond that have to recommend going with the larger engine. I use a 660 for milling, no issues. Good basic 90cc saw.

 

[JCJessen]

Thank you all for your answers!

I will hold back with the J red and look for a larger engine. I have some other opportunities in sight I would like to discus with you all. I will get back soon.

JC

 

[JCJessen]

I pulled the trigger on a Stihl 064 with new cylinder and piston and some other new parts. I have only tried it a little bit but it seems to run very well (but I don’t have much experience with big saws so what do I know). The saw came with a 25” bar and regular cross cut 3/8 chain. Now the hunt goes in to find a 36” bar and ripping chain. I hope this saw will have enough power to pull it. Fingers crossed ;o)


JC