Mini-Mill #4 Post 1

[BobL]

Jerry, Thanks for the detailed photos and explanations. I always find your posts informative, very clear and easy to follow, a pleasure to read and something for newbies to learn from, both in terms of what you post and how you post it. I think you should add a post to the milling 101 thread that shows a couple of picture of yourmills and also points to your builds.

BTW I'm surprised your throttle assembly doesn't wear the trigger away, when I tried a direct metal contact like yours on my 076 I eventually wore away the trigger and had to replace it.
I tried all manner of padding and found the best thing was hydraulic hose but even that has eventually worn a dent in the new trigger. This is why I used a direct cable connect on my 880 remote.
What's your secret? I wonder if it's because my spring is fully compressed @ WOT?

 

[820wards]

Jerry, Thanks for the detailed photos and explanations. I always find your posts informative, very clear and easy to follow, a pleasure to read and something for newbies to learn from. I think you should add a post to the milling 101 thread that shows a couple of pictures of your mills and also points to your builds.

Bob,
Thank you for offering your post to add some of my photos and links to my builds in. I'll do that as soon as I can.

BTW I'm surprised your throttle assembly doesn't wear the trigger away, when I tried a direct metal contact like yours on my 076 I eventually wore away the trigger and had to replace it.
I tried all manner of padding and found the best thing was hydraulic hose but even that has eventually worn a dent in the new trigger. This is why I used a direct cable connect on my 880 remote.
What's your secret?

Bob,

I have a stash of shrink wrap tubing that a friend gave me that I use for the trigger contact points. I added it today because I had forgotten put it on the day I took pictures. I have been using it on my triggers of my other mini-mills and I haven't seen any noticeable sign of wear. The shrink tube material is pretty thick and has a clear adhesive that melts/seals when heated so it doesn't slid off.

I wonder if it's because my spring is fully compressed @ WOT?

I don't use real heavy spring tension on my secondary return spring. Your big mill also runs for long periods of time which I can see would want to wear the triggers. The mini-mills I build and use, don't run as long as yours. Have you though of making a trigger from aluminum, or, what about using a small needle bearing on the shaft. You could double the bearings side-by-side to make the bearing surface wide enough for the trigger with. Hummm, I think I will try that on the next build. Isn't this fun stuff?

jerry-

 

[Dan_IN_MN]

Thanks for the kind words everyone. My hopes is that someone aspiring to build their own mill will see these pictures and give it a try. Seeing a picture may give them an idea on how to build something for themselves. I built this mill for a friend and he can't wait to use it.

jerry-

Your friend must be a GOOD friend!

I would like to build such an animal! I like this idea instead of just a 'U' shaped piece of steel running over a 2X4.

What did you build your tracks/rails out of? I didn't see any thing mentioned in your posts.

I take it this is your 4th mini mill you've built. What other things have you built? You can keep it to a 'nutshell' if you want.

 

[John D]

Awesome work! Very nice welding, engineering and detail ! Makes most store bought ones look unfinished...

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk

 

[Old Blue]

Great work and a very nice post Jerry !

I didn't even know that I wanted a mini mill until I read this Your use of silver solder for the fine parts is a nice touch.

I'll bet that anyone who has done any milling would love to have the remote throttle and your design is nice and clean. I hope to incorporate it into one of my own.

Thanks for taking the time to share this with us

Old Blue
Apparently not taxed enough cause I still got change in my pocket, in....
Kali-bone-ya

 

[820wards]

Your friend must be a GOOD friend!

He's a real good friend, I worked with him before I retired in 2007.

I would like to build such an animal! I like this idea instead of just a 'U' shaped piece of steel running over a 2X4. What did you build your tracks/rails out of? I didn't see any thing mentioned in your posts.

* My rail board is a 2x6x8' redwood board that I ran through my joiner to get on edge straight.

* I then set the 1" rail that has the saw bar bolted to it so that it is flush with the outer edge of the mill rail and jointed edge of the board. Use a couple of clamps to keep it flush with the edge.

* I used two pieces 3/4" x 3/4" angle iron as my guide rails.

* I then drilled each angle iron piece about every 7"-8" the length of the iron. I made my guide rail board 8' long. If you plan to mill beams or lumber to 8' long I suggest that you use a 10' board and angle iron.

* With the mill rails clamped to the guide board I put the angle on the inside of the mill rail and put the first screw into the board. Then I released the clamp and slid the mill along the board keeping it flush with the jointed edge, and put in the next screw. Keep doing this the entire length of the angle iron. Once I had the first piece of angle iron attached the length of the board I was ready to attache the second piece.

* BEFORE you start screwing down the second rail, you need to be sure your rails are square. The measurement between the front of the rails needs to be the same as the back or the mill will not slide smoothly along the guide board.

* Once you have squared the mill rails your ready to start attaching the back angle iron rail to the board. I used a clamp on the front mill rail to the 3/4" guide rail to hold it in place while setting and screwing the back angle iron down.

* Once both rails are attached you can then tune/adjust the mill rails to slide the length of the guide rail board. Angle iron isn't perfect.

Here is a picture of the guide rail board with one of my mini-mills in operation.

I take it this is your 4th mini mill you've built. What other things have you built? You can keep it to a 'nutshell' if you want.

If you look at my signature you will see my large Alaskan style mill and my first mini-mill builds and how I milled using them. There is more detailed descriptions/dimensions/pictures covering the builds and use of the mills.

Enjoy

jerry-

 

[820wards]

Awesome work! Very nice welding, engineering and detail ! Makes most store bought ones look unfinished...

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk

Thanks John, I've had many years to practice and get it right. My Dad taught me right, I had no choice, he was an engineer.

jerry-

 

[820wards]

I didn't even know that I wanted a mini mill until I read this Your use of silver solder for the fine parts is a nice touch.

I'll bet that anyone who has done any milling would love to have the remote throttle and your design is nice and clean. I hope to incorporate it into one of my own.

Thanks for taking the time to share this with us

Old Blue
Apparently not taxed enough cause I still got change in my pocket, in....
Kali-bone-ya

Old Blue,

I've found that the remote trigger pieces that I've made, clamps to the handle fits my Husky and a Stihl chainsaws. They must make most saw handles with about the same size and taper. Once you have a remote trigger, you will find it so much nicer to mill with and you are back farther away from the chain/bar.

jerry-