miscellaneous Husky 61 Q's

[SawTroll]

They are still on the Husky web-sites at least in some South American coutries, and the last time I checked, also in other third world coutries.

Some exemples; the 61 is sold in Mexico, the 268 (and the 262xp) in Russia, and both in Brasil. I have no idea of the prices.

They have been discontinued for several years here, the last to go were the 61, in 2002/2003.

The 61 was a simplified version of the 162 SE, and if my memory is correct, it came out 30 years ago, in 1976 - the Rancher a year or so later.

 

[coveredinsap]

SawTroll, I also have seen this documented in at least one, web-posted "manufactures" data sheet. Like you say, it described the 61 as ~.4 hp higher than the Rancher 61. That's actually quite a bit and I'm curious why. The only saw I've got to compare with is a 55 Rancher, which the 61 stomps all over <G>.

You're right about the sprocket; I should have changed it out sooner.
You see, I thought I knew something about saws, but I'm finding out how ignorant I really am. Only after reading many of the archive posts from this site, as well as others, did I tear the saw down for a closer look. The sprocket was beat-up, but, otherwise, the old 61 is in quite excellent shape. Still using the factory plug, which shows dark brown and black electrode, and, no signs of carbon or scratches anywhere else. Didn't measure ring end-gap or clearances or compression, BUT.. with new bar and chain, really, I swear she cuts as good as new.
Partly I attribute this to the fact I've always run a 1:25 oil mix, and, also I've always been careful about overreving. Ahh, I give myself way too much credit and not enough to Husqvarna!

Recently I got the bug for a little more power. That is my nature anyway: I'm into power-anything!
Being more of a backyard hobbiest than professional, I'm learning a bunch from the more experienced senior members here. To me, that's the fun part.
Thanks a lot for the reply.

Pardon my interruption & confusion, but....you replace the sprocket but don't replace a $2 spark plug? Most chainsaw owner manuals I've read say to replace the spark plug every 6 months whether it 'needs it' or not. $2 seems a small price to pay for such an important part of the engine.

 

[Freakingstang]

Pardon my interruption & confusion, but....you replace the sprocket but don't replace a $2 spark plug? Most chainsaw owner manuals I've read say to replace the spark plug every 6 months whether it 'needs it' or not. $2 seems a small price to pay for such an important part of the engine.

If a saw us tuned correctly, changing the plug doesn't do anything except waste your two dollars. Besides, round here most plugs about about 5 bucks a piece.


Put it this way, if the saw is too lean, you will have too clean of a plug. If it is too rich, there will be a fouled plug. And then their is just right. I agree, that it is a long time one one plug, but why make a big deal of it? Spark plugs don't go bad, owners go bad. lol

 

[SawTroll]

.... Most chainsaw owner manuals I've read say to replace the spark plug every 6 months whether it 'needs it' or not. ....

Maybe, but they usually last a lot longer than that.

 

[romeo]

So, which of these mods, the "268" or the "272" is a direct bolt-on?
...

Either one will bolt on. And the most efficiant mod for your muffler is duel port (2 oposing holes) the volume of both holes equaling aprox. 75% to 80% of the opening at your exhaust port. Here is a picture of a 2100 muffler to get an idea with.

 

[jbqwik]

Romeo - most excellent exhaust mod info. From this I can calc what I need to do.

Covereninsap - what a great handle <laughing>! If I may expand upon what SawTroll and Freakingstang offered: A plug can suffer from insulator 'deposits', which are in fact semi-conductive, and a worn electrode, and, much less often, cracked porclain. When things are right it can be amazingly long-lived. I agree with you, I'm pushing it, but, as long as it's firing, well,,, it's firing!
Oh, but, wait a sec.. there is potential for problems with certain electronic ignition modules when the plug gap gets too big. Oh yeah, I remember a certain Sears saw I had I think -it was a "2.5", something like that- anyway, it would just quit, every so often. Traced it down to the ignition mod. After a couple times of this I kept a spare on-hand.
Actually, that wasn't such a bad saw, if you could just deal with it's poor rubber-tube oiler desiqn, and, the aforementioned ignition weirdness...

 

[jbqwik]

so, after a partial tear-down, and finding the internals in great shape, maybe now I'll just reassemble as is, leaving the bottom gasket out -a bit more compression, right? The muffler is pre-EPA, or whatever you guys call it. I mean, there's not much to it. Don't know what else to do here. Except, maybe replace with an expansion chamber, but, don't have a clue where I'd get one. Any other ideas anybody, before i start wrenching?

 

[romeo]

If you re-assemble with out the gasket, use good goober on it. I like to use "The Right Stuff" gasket maker. I comes in a pressurized can and is super sticky and fuel resilliant, I have heard of other guys liking the Locktite stuff. If you get an air leak there it will kill your saw quick.

 

[jbqwik]

i know the goober stuff you're talkin bout. Super thick, no set-up, no cure time. I used it to seal plumbing on a diesel, with coolant gushing. Worked! Amazing but clean-up can be messy on hands and tools. For this application I think I'll use either the (red) high-temp stuff or the black RTV.

 

[Freakingstang]

i know the goober stuff you're talkin bout. Super thick, no set-up, no cure time. I used it to seal plumbing on a diesel, with coolant gushing. Worked! Amazing but clean-up can be messy on hands and tools. For this application I think I'll use either the (red) high-temp stuff or the black RTV.

Read those labels very carefully....Most RTV's are not meant for constant oxygen and gasoline conditions. I would hate to see and air leak....


-Steve

 

[jbqwik]

good point, Freak. Hmmm I know diesel fuel will attack "Right Stuff". My initial thought was the OEM stuff has a track record; The oil should be no problem but now, I'm not so sure about constant gas vapors. Hmmm
So what do you guys do?

 

[Freakingstang]

good point, Freak. Hmmm I know diesel fuel will attack "Right Stuff". My initial thought was the OEM stuff has a track record; The oil should be no problem but now, I'm not so sure about constant gas vapors. Hmmm
So what do you guys do?

I use loctite 518. It is specifically meant for an aluminum flange sealant. We use it at work and has great adhesion properties with tons of chemicals. I have 4 saws with it on there and quite a bit of run time since. No problems. It is PITA to remove, though.

I remember a lot of people saying they liked the loctite 515 sealant.

It isn't cheap, I got mine at Grainer.

-Steve

 

[jbqwik]

cool beans. I can get Loctite stuff. Glad you mentioned that. Thanks!

 

[manual]

Gasket Maker

I have had good luck with Permatex Anaerobic Gasket Maker.
Says it fills surface inperfections and cures quickly, Ideal for aluminum and cast iron flanges. Cost 13.00 for 1.69 Fl.Oz.

 

[Mr.]

The Permatex is the same as Loctite 518. Great stuff and cleanup is pretty fast for me. Just use a plastic paint scraper.

Fred

 

[jbqwik]

ahhhh Permatex same stuff, eh. Good to know this. There's a pretty good auto parts store close by. Hope I can find the Permatex tonight because tomorrow I'm goofin off all damn day. Might even take a nap in the recliner Thanks guys.

 

[buck futter]

I've used the permatex but it is just what you can get in your area. The anerobic stuff is refered to a zero clearance, regular rtv may leave a little distance between the two mated surfaces. Like everyone has said it is not cheap but will last a long time for this purpose.

Buck

 

[jbqwik]

aw crappo. Parts store knew the Permatex stuff but didn't have it. I can order the Locktite from an industrial jobber we deal with, or, the parts store Permatex. Also, just thought of a close friend who runs the repair shop at local Toyota dealership. He might have something, and, I can pester him today.
I sure appreciate the good info you all have provided. Thanks! and Happy Fathers Day. later...