drmiller100
ArboristSite Guru
Freakingstang said:Not a pro Anything. Thanks
so are you a welfare case, or a trust fund baby, or???????????
Freakingstang said:Not a pro Anything. Thanks
Easy now That won't get you anywhere.drmiller100 said:so are you a welfare case, or a trust fund baby, or???????????
manual said:Easy now That won't get you anywhere.
How about what you did with your carb After the wash test
drmiller100 said:you guys DO know how to read wash, right??????
Freakingstang said:Sorry, NOT A PRO WELDER. lol.
Not a pro Anything. Thanks
Four Paws said:I think it would be a BIG help if you would post pictures of your piston after your test. Then, explain to those who don't understand how to read wash what to look for, how to diagnose jetting from reading wash.
Freakingstang said:At least I know how to take a pic....
vegaome said:drmiller100,
Now are you fixin to make some corrolations betwen what and how a man earns his income and mechanical knowledge? Do take it easy.
v/r
Mike
drmiller100 said:on freak's piston, that is WILD. The top of the pic to me looks like the intake should on these should. but the ring gap is at the bottom.
I've never seen a ring gap on the exhaust side of the piston. it makes no sense to me. Do you have the ring rotated around?
In any case, that is too rich. It is consistently too rich as well. The wash (cool gas WASHES carbon away) is too big. The piston is in NO danger of melting, but free performance could be had by leaning down the big end slightly.
Some people would be "happy" with that jetting, but you can easily and SAFELY lean it down slightly in incremental steps.
FWIW, it takes 5-15 minutes of run time to build carbon depending on type of oil and gas.
04ultra said:1. Get new spark plug, but don't put it in yet.
2. Warm up motor to operating temp on old plug.
3. Install new plug.
4. Accellerate with throttle pinned.
5. When you hit the top , hit the kill switch
6
Oh my. I have no doubt this works on some saws. But I wonder if this is going to work on all saws. In particualr, as saws start getting cleaner epa wise, squish starts working, and more saws have rev limiters this method will have less consistency I would think.
As an example, what happens if we run a slightly hotter plug? what happens if we get a batch of gasoline where the residues burn at a hotter temp?
also, personally, I really don't care how my saw runs at WOT under no load. It won't cut wood without the chain in teh wood.
I think I'm most likely to burn down at WOT cutting a big log, so I think you should jet your saw correctly for that condition.
I'm new to saws, and I'm for sure willing to listen and learn the logic on this technique though.
Freakingstang said:Ring was broke. Good eye. the broken gap is at the exh side of the pic.
It was set rich, as it was intended to be a mill saw. The piston was a "new" piston with approximately 2 hours run time on it at differant carb settings.
drmiller100 said:Currently I'm a professional firewood deliovery guy in the winter, and professional landscaper in the summer. At one time in my life I was a professional computer support person.
I know professional ditch diggers. I know professional mothers, professional fathers, and I've talked on the internet to a couple of professional saw modification guys.
I believe you can be professional at whatever you do to make a living.
saw mods are a new hobby for me. mebbe that is what freak meant.
drmiller100 said:ok, for a milling saw where you shoudl be VERY worried about heat, I could totally see that jetting.
so hard to tell on teh picture. is the top outer edge of the piston shiney?????? does it have little hen pecks around the outer edge????
what does the exhaust side look like?
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