Cheers YISC. Yep, skills and time can be semi-interchangeable. In my case not a lot of skill so it take me longer but I now enjoy the voyage almost as much as the arrival.
Modding the BIL mill to take the 880
- Thread starter BobL
- Start date
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Cheers YISC. Yep, skills and time can be semi-interchangeable. In my case not a lot of skill so it take me longer but I now enjoy the voyage almost as much as the arrival.
Remote throttle update - throttle lock
I thought I just post that the remote throttle has now been used to mill a couple of logs and is working really well. The throttle lock ( brass bolt on the end of the throttle) is dead easy to use and being able to lock the throttle WO and vary the hand holds on the mill helps reduce arm and shoulder aches/stiffness (older codgers like me seek comfort as much as speed!).
One problem was that the locking knob was constantly vibrating off but the techo at work showed me a trick with a tight fitting O-ring.
Like this.
The big blue ring is a schematic representation of the channel the cable rides in.
The white circle represents the inner part of the throttle handle that turns
The cable throw is reduced to about 1/8 turn (CS basically runs either at idle or WOT anyway) so this leaves space in the end of the cable channel for a threaded brass lug to ride in so the throttle lock bolt clamps down onto the throttle handle. The lug is actually slightly curved to ride snuggly in the cable channel. When not using the lock the tight O-ring stops it from vibrating off.
I thought I just post that the remote throttle has now been used to mill a couple of logs and is working really well. The throttle lock ( brass bolt on the end of the throttle) is dead easy to use and being able to lock the throttle WO and vary the hand holds on the mill helps reduce arm and shoulder aches/stiffness (older codgers like me seek comfort as much as speed!).
One problem was that the locking knob was constantly vibrating off but the techo at work showed me a trick with a tight fitting O-ring.
Like this.
The big blue ring is a schematic representation of the channel the cable rides in.
The white circle represents the inner part of the throttle handle that turns
The cable throw is reduced to about 1/8 turn (CS basically runs either at idle or WOT anyway) so this leaves space in the end of the cable channel for a threaded brass lug to ride in so the throttle lock bolt clamps down onto the throttle handle. The lug is actually slightly curved to ride snuggly in the cable channel. When not using the lock the tight O-ring stops it from vibrating off.
Last edited:
Another BIL mill handle
Some might accuse me of being an ergonomic nutcase but another place I always reckoned a handle would come in handy on a CS mill is along the top of the mill rail opposite the operator.
Like this.
Which one is it you may well ask? - why it's the shiny newest looking one in the middle of the picture.
This is a lot easier for an over size guy like me to access than leaning down and grabbing hold of the whole mill rail (which in my case is pretty chunky) and makes it a fair bit easier to lift the mill, especially when the 60" bar is on the mill. Now I'll be able to grab the CS wrap handle and the new one and "hoik".
Closer up.
It's made from 3/4 diam 1/8 wall ally tubing with 5/16" all-thread running up the middle and locking onto the T-track on the rails with some flat steel toggle nuts.
Heres the view location opposite the operators standpoint.
The more I look at it, the more it looks like a wardrobe door handle.
Some might accuse me of being an ergonomic nutcase but another place I always reckoned a handle would come in handy on a CS mill is along the top of the mill rail opposite the operator.
Like this.
Which one is it you may well ask? - why it's the shiny newest looking one in the middle of the picture.
This is a lot easier for an over size guy like me to access than leaning down and grabbing hold of the whole mill rail (which in my case is pretty chunky) and makes it a fair bit easier to lift the mill, especially when the 60" bar is on the mill. Now I'll be able to grab the CS wrap handle and the new one and "hoik".
Closer up.
It's made from 3/4 diam 1/8 wall ally tubing with 5/16" all-thread running up the middle and locking onto the T-track on the rails with some flat steel toggle nuts.
Heres the view location opposite the operators standpoint.
The more I look at it, the more it looks like a wardrobe door handle.
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dave k
Addicted to ArboristSite
But a very pretty one ! I understand what you are saying about making it easier to lift the mill as I have found the way I mounted the new hand throttle to my mill made a big difference when lifting.
As usual great workmanship.
A quick question Bob, how long are the depth posts on your mill ? I am having four new 24" posts and four 4" extension posts made up for my Logosol since at the moment the original post only allow 8" depth which is fairly limiting.
Thanks.
As usual great workmanship.
A quick question Bob, how long are the depth posts on your mill ? I am having four new 24" posts and four 4" extension posts made up for my Logosol since at the moment the original post only allow 8" depth which is fairly limiting.
Thanks.
Cheers Dave!
The uprights are 32" long but the crank drives and cross bar at the top of the verticals use up 2" of length and the uprights extend 6" below the bar so that they act as legs for the mill and keep the saw and muffler extension off the ground so all up I only have about 20" of cutting depth variation.
This will give you an idea of what the set up is for the 076
An this is the situation with the 880 - I can't afford to put the mill down and have that exhaust pipe touch the ground - fortunately the plastic wheels on the end of the legs give me about an inch ground clearance.
Just to make sure I never put the mill down on an irregular surface and even made myself a service table that I bring along with me when I'm milling - the legs sit in chain lube container caps screwed to top. Much easier to refuel and re-oil, sharpen and service etc
Bob,
I think I'm going to try finding a MC wrecker around here to change the throttle on my mill. I'll bet it's easier on your hand?
jerry-
The action is very short - about 1/8 turn to go WOT. The wrist action is also reversed from a MC - one has to roll the wrist forward. I thought it might be awkward especially as I have ridden a MC for many years. However, being the left hand it feels quite natural.
The kill switch is conveniently located and accessible - better than having to reach down and fumble for the switch near the regular trigger.
I think I'm going to try finding a MC wrecker around here to change the throttle on my mill. I'll bet it's easier on your hand?
jerry-
The action is very short - about 1/8 turn to go WOT. The wrist action is also reversed from a MC - one has to roll the wrist forward. I thought it might be awkward especially as I have ridden a MC for many years. However, being the left hand it feels quite natural.
The kill switch is conveniently located and accessible - better than having to reach down and fumble for the switch near the regular trigger.
Yep of all the remotes I've made it's the best one.
Bob,
I have a friend who is a motorcycle gearhead. He's going to find me a motorcycle throttle.
jerry-
PP4218
ArboristSite Operative
Hey guys, I know this is old but any chance to bring the pictures back?
OK I put all my pics back - at least all those I could find which is all bar 1-2.
Most of the other members that posted pics I think have long gone from these forums.
Hope you find them useful.
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