well, chainspeed must be less on the 201T than the 200T then or are the standard sprockets different, there ain't no limited coil on my 200T's, they rev out to the extreme, lean and mean, if the cylinder fins aren't glowing in the dark you're not running them properly, on these saws more chain speed means less effort cutting small stuff, which is what they're made for anyway. Running 16" bars on tophandle saws is chronically degenerative behavior, but sounds like they're gearing the 201T towards losing zip and gaining chugging power instead. boooriiing
Modding the new MS201T - The truth inside
- Thread starter blsnelling
- Start date
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With these simple mods, the 201T will be both faster and stronger than a 200T.
I haven't done one in a while. Nothing's changed though.
KenJax Tree
Terraphobic
Hey Brad how big was that hole you drilled in the muffler? And did it tach 13,200 in the cut after you leaned it out a little to get 22% gain? Thanks.
Just for the record, the owner of every 201 I've modded has loved the saw when they got it back. Some of them are in professional use too. There have been no reliability issues. It's not my fault that Stihl replaced the best top handle saw ever with a saw most hate. Why else do you think 200s sell for such rediculous money on Ebay. When I'm done with my mods on a 201, it finally has the throttle response the user expects, and is stronger than a 200. It's a shame that the saw has to be modded to run like it should have been right out of the box.
I know I should keep my mouth shut....
I'm retired (read old), cut a few cords of firewood in the winter with my buds (read non-proffesional), and last year bought a 201 (rear handle) as a limbing saw. Out of the box, other than starting first or second pull, this saw was almost un-useable. I should have researched this forum before I bought the saw! For 50 bones and a nice senic drive I now have a saw that has great throttle response and surprising power for it's size, thanks to Brad.
Oh yeah, I've never met the man personally, just his work.
I'm retired (read old), cut a few cords of firewood in the winter with my buds (read non-proffesional), and last year bought a 201 (rear handle) as a limbing saw. Out of the box, other than starting first or second pull, this saw was almost un-useable. I should have researched this forum before I bought the saw! For 50 bones and a nice senic drive I now have a saw that has great throttle response and surprising power for it's size, thanks to Brad.
Oh yeah, I've never met the man personally, just his work.
Okay...that's enough. I think the guy gets the message. Let's back off and see if things get better.
Sometimes when a guy gets started off on the wrong foot it takes a long time for everybody to get over it. ...but we need to and we need to move on.
I'm deleting all the useless garbage and keeping the rest of Brad's thread intact.
No more arguing...from either side, please.
Sometimes when a guy gets started off on the wrong foot it takes a long time for everybody to get over it. ...but we need to and we need to move on.
I'm deleting all the useless garbage and keeping the rest of Brad's thread intact.
No more arguing...from either side, please.
defensiblespace
ArboristSite Operative
I recently bought a 201. I runs far worse than the non modded saw in the first post. The lag in the throttle is very noticeable. It also shuts off every time I hang it from my saddle. I can't even seem to break it in, because I just keep going back to my 200. Any ideas what may be causing these issues and how to fix them. Thank you.
If you have a warranty, use it, otherwise it sounds like you could be running lean which needs corrected otherwise you would risk engine damage if you continue and use it.
fir
ArboristSite Operative
Im new to this tread but we have a 201 at work. I use it and I am into moding saw I can't leave anything stock. We have two other arborist that use the saw. How much did you advance the timing. The shop did the muffler on it but I think they hacked it open way too big. It has poor response but I think its a real good saw. Nice work by the way.
MreeceC
ArboristSite Lurker
I would love some detail on the timing advance. Maybe a few pics and what tools that might be needed.
BTW this is my first post. I want to say that this forum looks well maintained and there are a bunch of good guys with some great knowledge. It great to be apart of what is going on here.
BTW this is my first post. I want to say that this forum looks well maintained and there are a bunch of good guys with some great knowledge. It great to be apart of what is going on here.
All you have to do is remove the flywheel and remove 1/3 of the width of the cast in key, such that the flywheel can be advanced CCW that same amount.
And it makes for a strong 35cc. Mine will cut 8-10" rounds with ease, although it can't clear chips very well on the big stuff. This saw likes the L screw on the lean side so if it cuts off at idle, positional idle issues or dies out of the cut, lean the L screw until it improves. It also HAS to be tuned in the cut.
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beastmaster
Addicted to ArboristSite
I am willing but not able to do the timing advance. Call me stupid but I can't get the flywheel off. Is there a special tool? I don't want to brake off some fins or damage something by jamming a screwdriver in it. Do you jam something in the spark plug hole?
Im not shy about jumping in feet first, but I'd hate to do damage to my brand new saw out of ignorance. A little heads up would be nice. Thanks in advance for any,"positive'' advice.
Im not shy about jumping in feet first, but I'd hate to do damage to my brand new saw out of ignorance. A little heads up would be nice. Thanks in advance for any,"positive'' advice.
tech413
New Member
Hi Brad, new to the forum. I have been looking for a new top handle saw for a while. I was wondering if you would be willing to ship a modded saw to Canada? Please let me know.
Thanks, Adam
Thanks, Adam
rymancm
ArboristSite Operative
Stick a piece of rope in the spark plug hole to stop the piston, then loosen the flywheel nut but don't take it all the way off. Then get a loop of cord/small rope behind the flywheel (easy on the 200T) and hang the saw by the flywheel a few inches off your bench. Then put a socket on the flywheel nut and whack it with a hammer. Should come loose very easily. Don't try to pry the flywheel off with a screwdriver as you may damage something.
beastmaster
Addicted to ArboristSite
Thanks a lot. I am pretty good at machanics and what not, but I'v also messed a few things up everyonce in a while. I was waiting for some instuctions before attemping. Appreciate it
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