Modifying a Wood Stove

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Stack up bricks all around it and on top of it, a "modular" soapstone stove effect. Remove when not needed if you'd a mind to, but proly not necessary once you get the bricks hot. That should extend heat output until you can get to reload it again.

If..I was building a new house, I would build it around a Russian masonry type setup. Massive, massive heat sinks and designed to burn the wood HOT at all times, maximum efficiency.
 
Stack up bricks all around it and on top of it, a "modular" soapstone stove effect. Remove when not needed if you'd a mind to, but proly not necessary once you get the bricks hot. That should extend heat output until you can get to reload it again.

If..I was building a new house, I would build it around a Russian masonry type setup. Massive, massive heat sinks and designed to burn the wood HOT at all times, maximum efficiency.
The masonry walls that surround both our stoves really help to hold the heat.
 
I've burned tires to stay warm... or, cut up tires.
There is those times where a fella' is gonna' do what a fella' is gonna do... it-is-what-it-is.
And I still pour my used oil over the wood stacks... can't see any reason to waste it...

Let the heat come...
*
 
i cut mine in 6 pieces i burn car,truck,trailer and lawn mower tires. i prefer lawn mower atv golf cart tires because they have no metal.
it smells terrible but they keep ya warm. but i only burn them in my shop stove which is a metal drum stove.
 
railroad ties or old phone poles are good to but i use a carbide chain to cut them because they are treated with creosote here and they are hell on regular chains.
 
i cut mine in 6 pieces i burn car,truck,trailer and lawn mower tires. i prefer lawn mower atv golf cart tires because they have no metal.
it smells terrible but they keep ya warm. but i only burn them in my shop stove which is a metal drum stove.
I wouldn't be doing that if I were you, it's too dangerous. Can't you just be happy burning inner tubes or the kids rubber boots?
John
 
i mainly burn waste oil in my shop heater its a rare occasion with a rubber tire. i run a drip line from a 10 gallon tank with a control valve. i save my wood for the house.
and white spidey i only use bias on my trailer, radials like to slide and roll with a heavy load
 
I think what we are all after from our stoves is heat and longevity of burn.
Airtight means bone dry wood starved for air.
The stove I have is great to minus 10F, but after that it doesn't do the job.

So I made a few modifications. Firstly, I replaced the 1/2" door gasket with a 5/8" gasket for a tighter fit.
With a crowbar I bent the inside latch outward so the door will fit tighter.
Also as a temp fix I plugged all primary damper holes with tin foil which I will weld closed later.
In place of the existing primary I plan on putting a threaded primary damper on the side of the stove so I can control the burn.
The mods Ive made so far have increased burn time from 4hrs to 12hrs.
The stove in question is a small Drolet. Can't wait for minus 40 to see how it does. All I expect at 40 below is that the inside temp stays above freezing.
Any thoughts?
I seldom permanently close holes in a stove, but I want to be able to close all of the inlet(draft) and almost close outlet(damper). Totally closing the damper is extremely dangerous.
 
Or simply add another stove, run them like a tag team.
That's the setup I have now, but I need to do mods on the second stove as well. I don't tag team unless temps get below minus 20F, that's about the time chit ting in a bucket is a must, but a frozen loaf takes awhile to burn and causes crapeosote in the chimney.
 
I wouldn't be doing that if I were you, it's too dangerous. Can't you just be happy burning inner tubes or the kids rubber boots?
John
Are there any old auto junk yards around? If you can find some old Mag(magnesium) wheels. Just cut them into chunks large enough to fit into your stove with some decent kindling around them. If your stove has a window glass you might wanna grab a welding helmet with a #10 or darker lense to wear around the house whilst burning the mag wheel chunks. Make sure you don't get sold aluminum wheels....as they just smolder and do not put off much heat.
 
Are there any old auto junk yards around? If you can find some old Mag(magnesium) wheels. Just cut them into chunks large enough to fit into your stove with some decent kindling around then. If your stove has a window glass you might wanna grab a welding helmet with a #10 or darker lense to wear around the house whilst burning the mag wheel chunks. Make sure you don't get sold aluminum wheels....as they just smolder and do not put off much heat.
probably gonna want some firebricks on the bottom and sides or that mag will burn a hole right through the bottom of the stove and through to the ground under your house. i always threaten to just light the house on fire when the stove wont keep up. should work for a few hours anyway
 
probably gonna want some firebricks on the bottom and sides or that mag will burn a hole right through the bottom of the stove and through to the ground under your house. i always threaten to just light the house on fire when the stove wont keep up. should work for a few hours anyway
not only that,,but once mag lights,,you can throw it into water,,and itll keep burning......oxygen in the water.....fireman told me only foam will kill it....
 
I would modify it by adding a for sale sign on it and selling it on craigslist . I know this sounds off color but Your little mods are not going to turn a sows ear into a silk purse .. Just pony up and get a new EPA unit . Longer cleaner burns and far less wood
 

Latest posts

Back
Top