Monster 372xp Dawgs

[Engineeringnerd]

*** This thread is relocating a discussion from a Four Paws thread discussing muffler mods. I didn't want to gum up his topic with a discussion on bucking spikes ***

Rspike,

I ordered the dawgs from Baileys for $24.95. You have the choice on the 372xp to get 4 point or 5 point dawgs, mine are the 5 point.

(Click for larger picture)



I was a little surprised, to say the least, when I opened the package! I expected them to be a little bigger than stock, but they are about 1 1/4" longer. This means you lose that much of your bar, but gain great leverage and the ability to roll your cuts farther without bumping the hand guard or muffler. The picture below shows a comparison of the smaller stock dawgs versus the 5-pointers.

(Click to enlarge)


Pro's:

• Looks mean
• Allows you to roll your cuts nicely without bumping handguard or muffler
• Aggressively bites into lumber

Con's:

• Lose 5/4" usable bar compared to stock dawgs
• Saw doesn't sit flat on ground due to 5th spike

I must admit they do garner attention! I'd be tempted to get the 4 pointers if their length fell somewhere between stock and these (and allow the saw to rest flat on the ground). But then again, I'm a weekend warrior and using these is kind of fun.

I've had several mentions from West Coasters that these type spikes are very useful on big lumber. I imagine the coarseness of the bark, large protrusions, and long bars/big rolling cuts make these very useful for them.

 

[kioni]

Any idea if these will fit a 575xp?

 

[SRT-Tech]

very nice!

any idea if there are bigger dawgs available for an old Husky 61 (28 years old) or should i just break out the cutting torch and some 1/8" stock?

 

[Engineeringnerd]

Fit 575XP or older 61?

I imagine they would fit the 575. I looked on the Bailey's website www. baileysonline.com and didn't see the 575xp listed. You can give them a call and find out. My guess is that the bar section of the 575xp would use the same attachments as the 372xp it replaces.

Not sure about the 61. I'd be glad to take some measures of the dawgs if you supply some measures of your saw.

 

[Gypo Logger]

Good picture engineered. Another con is that those wicked dogs will stick you in the back of the leg when packing the saw thru the brush. Another pro is that you won't set the log on fire as easily with the added distance between the wood and the muffler mod. That's why pipes are so much better.
John

 

[Engineeringnerd]

Ouch!

You probably have a good point on the leg stab issue, hadn't thought of that one. I'm having problems imagining the exhaust starting a fire though. Have you heard of any reliable stories of such?

My older Mac dumps the exhaust right out the side next to the cuttings (when cutting low on the stump) and never had an issue, but the shavings do get warm.

 

[tek9tim]

Yup, done it multiple times. Most applicable to what Gypo was saying was bucking a punky log with an 046 with the dual port front cover while prepping a prescribed unit. Almost got it fired off early.

 

[B_Turner]

Those lawgs look a little big for a 372 for my taste. I have both the small and large stock dawgs for my 371 (west coast it is a half wrap full wrap kind of thing) and would not want any dawgs bigger than the stock full wrap dawgs.

On my 395 which runs the big stock dawgs (was a full wrap) they are longer than my 066 (full wrap dogs) and therefor big enough. So the dawgs in the pic are bigger than I personally would want for any saw. Sometimes the extra length of my 395 dawgs compared to my 066 dawgs allows me pivot farther on a really rough barked tree without the brake hitting, but any longer would be too akward and waste too much bar.

 

[Gypo Logger]

The bigger dawg are better on bigger wood. Technique!
John

 

[Engineeringnerd]

Tek9tim,

My son just ordered a TIG welder, so I may look at adding a deflector or something. Until then I'll make sure I drink lots of water before going out to cut!


B_Turner,

I have to agree they're a bit much, but I bought 'em. Maybe Santa will bring me a smaller pair for Christmas. Interesting thing is that Santa has the same credit card number as I do!

 

[B_Turner]

Tek9tim,



B_Turner,

I have to agree they're a bit much, but I bought 'em. Maybe Santa will bring me a smaller pair for Christmas. Interesting thing is that Santa has the same credit card number as I do!

Hey, you can't have too many dawgs. Just more choices. You can put them on when you feel like running with the big dawgs...

I don't want to admit how many bars I've bought for only having seven saws....Can't have too many bars either...

 

[Engineeringnerd]

Gypo & B_Turner,

I've normally run 16" to 24" with full compliment chains. Just put on a 32" bar with full skip for bigger trees on the 372xp. From the looks of your pictures, you've both had some experience with longer bars.

Any advice other than keep it out of the dirt and keep track of where the tip is?

 

[B_Turner]

Gypo & B_Turner,

I've normally run 16" to 24" with full compliment chains. Just put on a 32" bar with full skip for bigger trees on the 372xp. From the looks of your pictures, you've both had some experience with longer bars.

Any advice other than keep it out of the dirt and keep track of where the tip is?

In the past, I actually ran my 371 quite a bit with a 32 inch bar.

It's a little more than ideal, but it will do it. I say just always make sure the chain is really sharp and take your time in the cut. As soon as the edge goes, swap it out or touch it up. I bring a bag of fresh chains to the site and swap in sharp chains pretty often. The saw and bar and me are happier.

Also I notice some people seem to grib the saw with a deathgrip when using a long bar. That will take a toll on your body, and like any other activity relaxed control is the ticket. A sharp chain helps this as well.

I spend most of my time with either a 32 or 36 inch bar. In tems of keeping track where the tip is (which is more of a problem with longer yet like 42) it is no more of a problem than with smaller bars. My brother and bunch of friends are long time arborists and feel that they are more at risk doing a lot of close up work with short bars because of all the motion. The long bars tend to be out in front of you where you can see them.

One other thing that I've been taught for years and believe firmly is that whenever you stop cutting you popon the chain brake, including when you set down a running saw or even walk between cuts. I don't even think about it, but am popping the brake on and off constanly when I move about, considering the next cut.

 

[Engineeringnerd]

I'm curious to see how she will pull in a large oak tree. My intent is to use the 32" for the first really big cuts, then downsize to the 24" as soon as possible; both for a fresh chain and a more manageable bar length. I've found that the lower cuts really take a toll on the chain, I guess from all the grit stuck in the bark. I've heard you should peel the bark before starting, but have never seen anyone actually doing it in practice.

I like to get to the 346xp with a 20" bar as soon as possible as it weighs like a feather and zips through the wood less than 18" very easily.

Most of my cutting is more recreational in nature;a couple of guys getting together to get firewood, fell a problem tree, or clear downed trees after a storm. Man I love it!

You guys in WA have real trees. What kind of cutting do you do?

 

[fishhuntcutwood]

You guys in WA have real trees. What kind of cutting do you do?

You mean other than timber?

 

[Engineeringnerd]

I was wondering what type of trees, size, and method of harvesting.

Around here much of the clearing and pulp wood is taken mechanically. Mostly pine, oak, sweetgum, poplar, and an occasional maple or hickory. Seems most of the saw work is reserved for residential areas. Most of it is 24" or less in diameter, much less than 20". Occasionally you will get a large oak that is 48" or so, but not very often.

 

[fishhuntcutwood]

You don't see much mechanical havesting here at all. The terrain juist isn't conducive. Hand falling is king here. Timber can run from pulp wood to very nice veneer grade timber. Mostly fir, cedar, alder and some hardwoods. Maple here and there.

 

[ciscoguy01]

Stihl

Anybody know if you can get those for a Stihl? Or if they'll fit a 266XP???

 

[Urbicide]

Anybody know if you can get those for a Stihl? Or if they'll fit a 266XP???

Dude, give Bailey's a call.

 

[chainsaw1]

*** This thread is relocating a discussion from a Four Paws thread discussing muffler mods. I didn't want to gum up his topic with a discussion on bucking spikes ***

Rspike,

I ordered the dawgs from Baileys for $24.95. You have the choice on the 372xp to get 4 point or 5 point dawgs, mine are the 5 point.

(Click for larger picture)



I was a little surprised, to say the least, when I opened the package! I expected them to be a little bigger than stock, but they are about 1 1/4" longer. This means you lose that much of your bar, but gain great leverage and the ability to roll your cuts farther without bumping the hand guard or muffler. The picture below shows a comparison of the smaller stock dawgs versus the 5-pointers.

(Click to enlarge)


Pro's:

• Looks mean
• Allows you to roll your cuts nicely without bumping handguard or muffler
• Aggressively bites into lumber

Con's:

• Lose 5/4" usable bar compared to stock dawgs
• Saw doesn't sit flat on ground due to 5th spike

I must admit they do garner attention! I'd be tempted to get the 4 pointers if their length fell somewhere between stock and these (and allow the saw to rest flat on the ground). But then again, I'm a weekend warrior and using these is kind of fun.

I've had several mentions from West Coasters that these type spikes are very useful on big lumber. I imagine the coarseness of the bark, large protrusions, and long bars/big rolling cuts make these very useful for them.

I also just ordered these big dawgs for my MS650 and was just wondering how you like them so far. Or anyone else that has these big dawgs.