More power from your ms200t

[Lumberjack]

I split the muffler. Then thought like I was water (water and air have similar properties, but I can "see" water flowing better). I pictured the water coming out of the port and made the path to the new hole as smooth and restriction free as possible. I left the baffles on the far side because I wanted to direct all the flow to the new opening. Best I remember I used a grinder and/or an air powered flute cutter with a rounded nose.


Guy, no doubt, open the can and put in the plugs!

 

[Jim1NZ]

Oh yea ok. So far the baffles are out and today i opened the exhaust hole up to double standard. Il see how it goes, if nothing, it sounds way grunter haha

 

[Lumberjack]

MAKE SURE TO RETUNE.

Do a search for info on how to do this. You will most likely burn up the saw from it running to lean if you dont retune it. There were other restrictions in mine that I smoothed out.

Did you break the 4 bolts that hold the two halves together? Just curious, I did and didnt replace them. No problems to date.

 

[Jim1NZ]

Ok will do, no i didn't take any screws out because i thought they would break! They must be lock tighted in or something. There is a bit of a lip in the muffler about a cm back from the original hole so i just made my hole to there.

 

[TimberMcPherson]

Let me know if you need some bits Jim, I have a few 020 in bits around the place. One of my ms200's Im turning into a felling saw, a bit more aggressive and louder for dismantles and keep the other stealthy for pruning.

 

[Jim1NZ]

Yea will do Timber cheers, thats exactly what i was trying to do with my saw - speed it up for dismantles when contracting etc...

 

[Jim1NZ]

Good to see another kiwi on Arboristsite!

 

[Lumberjack]

Ok will do, no i didn't take any screws out because i thought they would break! They must be lock tighted in or something. There is a bit of a lip in the muffler about a cm back from the original hole so i just made my hole to there.

Yes they are lock tighted in. Then around the edge of the muffler there is a sealant or glue. I broke mine off, gently pryed the halves apart and went to work. Some say to heat the holes to loosen the lock tight, I say just break them.

Once inside you will see baffles circling the port, I removed the ones heading to the new hole, as well as any other obstructions.

When I put it back together I just used the two bolts that hold it to the flange, and havent had a problem with the lack of the other 4 bolts.

 

[kf_tree]

just break the screw's......are you kidding me? if those srews are broken or missing the muffler WILL crack with out a doubt. breaking things is no way to modify a saw.

 

[Lumberjack]

KF, my muffler has not cracked and it has been san screws for 1.5 years now. Therefore I must call your blanket statement false.

The can has a strong interferance fit at the lip, and the two screws that hold it to the port help clamp it together also.

 

[kf_tree]

KF, my muffler has not cracked and it has been san screws for 1.5 years now. Therefore I must call your blanket statement false.

The can has a strong interferance fit at the lip, and the two screws that hold it to the port help clamp it together also.

sorry but i just see that as giving bad advice.....go ahead break it, it doesn't matter. i just can't see giving giving advice like that. i used to spin a wrench for a living and attitudes like that from other mechanics drove me nuts. if you going to do something do it right. but then again it lasted a year and a half so i guess you know best.

hell, most cars have 5 lug nuts holding the wheel on, but 3 will do the job.

if you sent your saw to a builder and it came back with broken bolts in it and he said ahhhh don't worry about it......she'll be fine, would you accept that?

 

[darkstar]

i got my 394 xp back from the shop ...and my saw man had drilled 2 holes in the muffler ... he said it was heating up to much and this would help ... hmmm i trust him though hes been working saws for 30 years .....

 

[Lumberjack]

sorry but i just see that as giving bad advice.....go ahead break it, it doesn't matter. i just can't see giving giving advice like that. i used to spin a wrench for a living and attitudes like that from other mechanics drove me nuts. if you going to do something do it right. but then again it lasted a year and a half so i guess you know best.

hell, most cars have 5 lug nuts holding the wheel on, but 3 will do the job.

if you sent your saw to a builder and it came back with broken bolts in it and he said ahhhh don't worry about it......she'll be fine, would you accept that?

I have turned wrenches all my life (long time I tell ya) and have been around grease monkeys all my life. I am in a 13 bay garage at least once a week shooting the breeze, or using a lift, or bringing some humor. I am friends with the owner and his family and have had him testify on various matters in court. We all have a background.

If I sent it to a reputable builder and he said it? Sure, after all it is his job to know.

I didnt say I knew what was best, I said it worked for me. It has worked for 1.5 years, yet yours all break?

The analogy with the car is flawed, but I get your point. I am for doing it right, however, if you say doing it right is keeping the factory stuff the same then why mod the muff? If it works just as fine without them then how is that "wrong"? The can fits together tight, and yes you put way more hours on your saws per week, but I havent had a problem with my muffler, yet you call it butchery and sub par work (the bolts) and yet your cans crack? Sounds bass ackwards to me.

Not starting a pissing war either. What did you work on as a mech?

 

[kf_tree]

I have turned wrenches all my life (long time I tell ya) and have been around grease monkeys all my life. I am in a 13 bay garage at least once a week shooting the breeze, or using a lift, or bringing some humor. I am friends with the owner and his family and have had him testify on various matters in court. We all have a background.

If I sent it to a reputable builder and he said it? Sure, after all it is his job to know.

I didnt say I knew what was best, I said it worked for me. It has worked for 1.5 years, yet yours all break?

The analogy with the car is flawed, but I get your point. I am for doing it right, however, if you say doing it right is keeping the factory stuff the same then why mod the muff? If it works just as fine without them then how is that "wrong"? The can fits together tight, and yes you put way more hours on your saws per week, but I havent had a problem with my muffler, yet you call it butchery and sub par work (the bolts) and yet your cans crack? Sounds bass ackwards to me.

Not starting a pissing war either. What did you work on as a mech?

dude .....what ever floats your boat. if your so proud of your work and think the broken screws are fine, post this on the chainsaw forum and see what they think.

i'm out

 

[Greg]

That saw, outta the box has plenty of power. Why increase the noise for a little gain in speed/power? I worked the muffler of a MS290 and that saw runs and cuts like a champ, very strong saw!!! But I sold it to a buddy of mine cause it was way too loud to work with, sounded like a dirt bike. Man did it cut!! I value my hearing more ----plugs, muffs, I know but get real.

Go easy on the muffler mods, you do get a gain, but you need a saw you can stand to run for several hours of the day. I have done the mufflers on all of my saws (except the MS200) but went light and did not open them to the max like I did on the 290. My 044 and 660 are bad a$$ muthas!!
Greg

 

[Jim1NZ]

Well id did some minor mods to the muffler, didn't open the hole thing up or brake any bolts, i thought it would be just too much trouble. I made the hole where the baffles were a bit bigger and smoothed it out.

Just got it back from the shop after a straight carb tune and it is going MINT! I admit it is a bit louder but its worth the extra power increase. Its no louder than a 660 and my ear muffs are good.

I'm stoked