More questions about bucking...

[litefoot]

Hi everyone. I did a search on bucking downed timber laying flat and difficult to roll. I read all the threads and I'm still a little uncertain. Some of you said that you use wedges. As I understand it (and please correct me if I'm wrong), you start the cut and then place a wedge in the kerf behind the bar. Then at about 3/4 of the way into the cut, you then pound the wedge deeper into the cut (toward the guide bar?) which has the effect of lifting the bucked section slightly off the ground so you can finish the cut without grounding the guide bar. Have I got that right? If so, I'm not sure I understand the physics of this. Please straighten out this confused lad!

 

[ShoerFast]

Hi everyone. I did a search on bucking downed timber laying flat and difficult to roll. I read all the threads and I'm still a little uncertain. Some of you said that you use wedges. As I understand it (and please correct me if I'm wrong), you start the cut and then place a wedge in the kerf behind the bar. Then at about 3/4 of the way into the cut, you then pound the wedge deeper into the cut (toward the guide bar?) which has the effect of lifting the bucked section slightly off the ground so you can finish the cut without grounding the guide bar. Have I got that right? If so, I'm not sure I understand the physics of this. Please straighten out this confused lad!

Driving a wedge is not going to lift the lower portion of the log off the ground as much is it is going to not allow the kreft to pinch/bind the B&C.

A trick that will work for you to keep the B&C out of the dirt is to finish the last portion of the cut with the very end of the bar, if you look thought the cut you can watch , and just cuts into the inner bark. If you stop your cut right, just a good thump and it will brake off the rest.

 

[manual]

Driving a wedge is not going to lift the lower portion of the log off the ground as much is it is going to not allow the kreft to pinch/bind the B&C.

A trick that will work for you to keep the B&C out of the dirt is to finish the last portion of the cut with the very end of the bar, if you look thought the cut you can watch , and just cuts into the inner bark. If you stop your cut right, just a good thump and it will brake off the rest.

yep I do the same thing,
I also buck the logs untill I see the log start to pinch the bar. Pull the bar out and move on to next cut. You sometimes get 4 or more rounds then the log has a sweet spot that lets me cut all the way through. or just enough to roll the rounds that are still together.
then I finish the cuts having the uncut areas looking at me.

 

[Urbicide]

How big is the timber you are cutting? These tools might be of some assistance to you:

http://store.baileys-online.com/cgi-bin/baileys/561?mv_session_id=VeDSrnWY&product_sku=15810

http://store.baileys-online.com/cgi-bin/baileys/5322?mv_session_id=VeDSrnWY&product_sku=CH 042

 

[smokechase II]

lifting the log

The wedge will not only keep the log from settling. Yes, it will also lift the log higher if the wood is solid and the tree not too big.
Key point to any wedging like this while bucking, need adequate diameter of log to cut through and establish the wedge. If that is not available, see #3 below as one of the possible solutions.

A couple other tricks;
1) Place larger limbs under the tree before you start bucking.
2) If several trees are to be dropped, see if you can drop the first two at what will be right angles to the rest. Limb, top and buck those first two, then use them as supports for the rest.
3) Cut out a wedge/pie shape from the compression side to allow a place for the log to go (Provided that ground clearance will not be a problem) then finish the cut from the bottom heading up.
4) Cut part way through where you want for firewood needs, and then cut all the way through where you can and avoid dirt/rocks. Then roll that section 1/2 way over and finish the bucks.
5) Cut as a team with another who takes on the more likely to find dirt cuts and you keep your falling chain sharp. {Picture how common this is for those putting in fireline where many old stem half buried in the dirt have to be moved.}

Did this in a hurry, spouse is driving a wedge to get me out the door.
All the Best

 

[turnkey4099]

I use the 'cut most of way through several rounds' then cut all the way through a round (using a wedge if needed). "baby" the saw the last little bit as it starts to finish the cut. Yes you can feel it, then keep revs low, blip the throttle. Usually you will come to a spot somewhere that is clear of the ground enough to cut all the way without hitting dirt. You can roll a really respectable length of log, larger works better than smaller as you get some leverage.

Bucking in general: I cut from the top down and limb as I go. This allows any stresses, etc to be worked out little by little instead of one big jolt and also allows you to keep your body clear of the remaining log and limbs. Any limb large enough to use as firewood gets chopped up until I get to the trunk if I can reach it.

Harry K

 

[ShoerFast]

Harry

Yes, and if you plan it out, a few of those limbs will work as a lever to roll the log.

 

[smokechase II]

safety

A few safety thoughts:

Bucking can, of course be fairly dangerous. Avoid cutting from the downhill side. A longer bar is a safety advantage is these situations.
There are plenty of gentle hills where this isn't really a concern. Be ready to say no on those that are.

Side binds can slap a log back at the cutter. Broken legs and back injuries are unfortunately all too common. You can place yourself, usually, where the log cannot come at you.

A log being bucked can dislodge either other objects that could come at you or a spring pole.

You are limbing and bucking a tree you just fell. Did you make sure there were no widow-makers left in neighboring trees as it came down?

Lots of dangers out there. I've listed just a few to get some reading here to consider this:

I'd recommend Tim Ards eBook. It is listed as a Complete Guide while it clearly is just an almost complete how to open face cut in smaller timber. But it does that well. Then add say Beraneks book, "Fundamentals of General Tree Work" and I think you've got the best of video(ebook has some OK film) or print out there.

If you're cheap, find an experienced logger, with no scars or limps, who used to also be a teacher and buy him burgers and a beer to show how.

 

[manual]

I get more kick back action on those dime size branches then any other.
Makes me slow down and watch what I am doing.

 

[Diesel JD]

I agree with manual. those springy limbs are dangerous! If I ever get cut, that's probably where it will be. To reduce teh danger I try to hold the saw well away from my body, keep my body out of the plane of the bar, and limb the opposite side of the tree from where I am standing. RE: bucking. The way I have used wedges is I begin the cut, then as soon as the bar starts to pinch, I stop cutting and drive the wede. You can then begin to plunge cutbeneath the wedge...but be VERY careful, plunge cuts increase kickback tendency. Hold on tight and stay out of the saw's kickback path. Stay alert and at NO TIME let the nose of teh bar come into contact with anything else. Alternately, if you're lucky and the log is off the ground, you can finish the cut from the bottom sidewith or withouth the wedge. With the wedge is still safer adn easier. Be aware that the log may roll and cutting off even a firewood size piece will cause some reaction with the saw and the log. I don't advise looking into teh kerf as you're cutting, cause that puts your face in the kickback path. Instead watch your stream of woodchips, when you start to see bark(darker or maybe with some wood lighter) chips blown out, or the least bit oif dust/dirt STOP cutting immediately. If you feel safe doing it, you could also use a bow guide. They tend to do well cutting that type of log as long as the log isn't very thick, that is less dia than the bow nose(mine is 16"). Just some thoughts from a guy who knows what kind of wood you're struggling with. Good luck,
J.D.

 

[Doctor Dave]

yep I do the same thing,
I also buck the logs untill I see the log start to pinch the bar. Pull the bar out and move on to next cut. You sometimes get 4 or more rounds then the log has a sweet spot that lets me cut all the way through. or just enough to roll the rounds that are still together.
then I finish the cuts having the uncut areas looking at me.

Waht I do too. However, if you are dealing with a valuable log as opposed to firewood, the objective is not to split the log. I was taught to leave holding wood in the center of the log, by cutting from the top about 1/3, then a plunge cut and cutting the bottom 1/3, then cutting each side. Last, the middle, from the top.