ms 360 case splitting

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ftm

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Here is the story. Was cutting with the saw and it would not idle so I turned it up a bit. Funny I thought as it was fine the last time. Eventually it stopped again while idling and would not restart. It was harder to pull. Pulled the plug and still hard. I start taking everthing external off and finally pull the cylinder and see that the case's plastic bearing cage has disintegrated on the flywheel side. This seems a little strange but maybe the plastic cage hardened up with age?
My questions, I know I need a puller for the flywheel but I assumed I would be able to knock the crank out of the clutch side with a dead blow hammer. Does it need to be pressed out? Yes, all the screws are out and I knocked down the dowel pins so the cases will spin on the crank.

While it is torn down what else should I do? Cylinder hone, wrist pin bearing, clean up the carbon buildup? The compressioin was about 140 cold. The cylinder looks good. New rings then?
 
Bearing cage collapse happens from time to time... I see a few a year. I suspect a combination of heat and additives in gas, but I'm guessing. The broken cages are very brittle, and the new cages start off more flexible.

There is an even chance that your clutch side bearing is damaged. When the flywheel side collapses, the off-axis stress is transmitted to the clutch side bearing. Check your crank for run-out...

You can't (or really you shouldn't) get the crank out with the method you describe. It needs a combination of pulling against the case and pressing. Before I bought the "real" stihl tools, I had a big assortment of tubes, shims, old clutch housings, left thread nuts, pullers, a bench press etc etc. PITA.. With the right tools is not difficult job at all. The assembly also requires pulling against the case/bearing. If you use a press you can move the position of the case bearings. If you are very careful, first fit the crank into the flywheel side bearing and press (2 ton will give you the reach) it home, then use long (72mm) screws to tighten the case together over the clutch side crank... but be very careful or you'll have a cracked case.

The bearings need to be fitted by heating the case. If you have an 036 with a steel insert in the clutch side, (most of the later types) it's quite difficult even with heat. I heat mine to 325F for 20 minutes in a convection oven, freeze the bearing, use anti-lock compound and they still need a 2 ton press to insert them, and you have to be very quick! After case heating, the flywheel bearing can be inserted by finger pressure. The clutch side bearing is positioned against the oil pump housing and needs to be exact, so it pays to have an old pump housing attached before heating the entire case.


You really need to get a service manual...
 
ftm said:
My questions, I know I need a puller for the flywheel but I assumed I would be able to knock the crank out of the clutch side with a dead blow hammer. Does it need to be pressed out?


Do not try to knock it out with a hammer! It will most likely come out, but you will probably bend the crankshaft inward towards the counterweights. I have bent two crankshafts doing this. They are currently in the shop being straightened. After getting some great advice from the experts here, I am prepared to do the job right with some heat and dry ice when I get the cranks back.
 
ftm said:
Here is the story. Was cutting with the saw and it would not idle so I turned it up a bit. Funny I thought as it was fine the last time. Eventually it stopped again while idling and would not restart. It was harder to pull. Pulled the plug and still hard. I start taking everthing external off and finally pull the cylinder and see that the case's plastic bearing cage has disintegrated on the flywheel side. This seems a little strange but maybe the plastic cage hardened up with age?
My questions, I know I need a puller for the flywheel but I assumed I would be able to knock the crank out of the clutch side with a dead blow hammer. Does it need to be pressed out? Yes, all the screws are out and I knocked down the dowel pins so the cases will spin on the crank.

While it is torn down what else should I do? Cylinder hone, wrist pin bearing, clean up the carbon buildup? The compressioin was about 140 cold. The cylinder looks good. New rings then?

What??? Plastic bearing cage in a 'pro' saw? Imagine that! And here I was told that the Stihl 'pro' saws were "all metal"! It seems that was a lie. Why...I'm shocked! shocked I say!
 
hey Sap I,m having trouble chasing you around.
Did you ever get that Sthil Dealers Name and Phone #

(polo)
 
coveredinsap said:
What??? Plastic bearing cage in a 'pro' saw? Imagine that! And here I was told that the Stihl 'pro' saws were "all metal"! It seems that was a lie. Why...I'm shocked! shocked I say!

Plastic has been used for years!

Hertzel , the makers of some of the biggest aircraft properllers have been using plastic bearing cages in there prop hubs for decades, never a failure! and the C-force is nearly 25 tons at flight speed.

But this still dose not give us the name of your Stihl Dealer?
 
It was the one closest to his house. Which one is that? I know someone knows.Just call the guy to give him the option of defending himself.

Fred
 
Thanks for the thought. I worked at a cycle shop for several years and never thought a chainsaw would be such a pain in the butt. It didn't run for long in that condition but I will certainly check the runout.
 
coveredinsap said:
What??? Plastic bearing cage in a 'pro' saw? Imagine that! And here I was told that the Stihl 'pro' saws were "all metal"! It seems that was a lie. Why...I'm shocked! shocked I say!

Idiot. Do you even know what a cage is or does? As usual a perfectly good thread has been derailed by a sociopath.
 

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