Stihl 044 what did i do wrong? EDIT: I think It's Fixed

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Doubt this will help also, will try to adjust it but i imagine a new flap and shaft may be needed, shaft looks a bugger to get hold of though
The icing on the cake is the screwed up throttle plate. They are generally beveled and made to go in only one way. I don't know whay anyone would try to remove the throttle plate unless your particular carb has an accelerator pump that is operated by the throttle level. If it does and that is screwed up you have more headaches.
I'm not sure that throttle plate is (or was) wrong... looks like the stop screw might be adjusted a bit far in though
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I'm not sure that throttle plate is (or was) wrong... looks like the stop screw might be adjusted a bit far in though
View attachment 1192359View attachment 1192358
Interesting! I have never seen a carb where the screw threads are in the throttle plate instead of the throttle shaft. They must have changed this to provide more threads in the throttle shaft.

If that is the case the OP might be able to fix this by backing the idle screw off all the way, loosening the screw, let the throttle plate self center and then tightening the screw. If this fixes it make sure to wedge/booger the back side of t he screw to keep it from falling out and being ingested by the engine.
 
Left off work early and had another go at it, Soon as I picked it up I could see why It would not fit, It was meant to go in between the shaft, not behind it or in front, have put it back together but still lots of gaps so will wait for new part.
 
Left off work early and had another go at it, Soon as I picked it up I could see why It would not fit, It was meant to go in between the shaft, not behind it or in front, have put it back together but still lots of gaps so will wait for new part.
Make sure that the bevel and notch are in the correct location and try my tip above.
 
By God I thinks It's fixed!!!
Fiddled a bit more with the carb throttle plate and it now sits just right with no gaps, but also found another important part to replace, as I stated before I replaced the tank vent but even though I had the part I had forgot to replace the little orange grommet in the fuel tank, I went to pull it out and it just dissolved into nothing, little more tuning to do but almost there.
 

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By God I thinks It's fixed!!!
Fiddled a bit more with the carb throttle plate and it now sits just right with no gaps, but also found another important part to replace, as I stated before I replaced the tank vent but even though I had the part I had forgot to replace the little orange grommet in the fuel tank, I went to pull it out and it just dissolved into nothing,
The tank vent isn't likely the cause of any running problems. Don't be surprised if it still seeps/leaks a bit around the vent. Mine does.

little more tuning to do but almost there.
The stock settings on these non-limiter cap carbs is 1 turn out from lightly seated on both the "H" and "L" needles. If it is more than 1/2 turn off you still have either a carb problem or air leak.
 
The tank vent isn't likely the cause of any running problems. Don't be surprised if it still seeps/leaks a bit around the vent. Mine does.


The stock settings on these non-limiter cap carbs is 1 turn out from lightly seated on both the "H" and "L" needles. If it is more than 1/2 turn off you still have either a carb problem or air leak.
I am 1 turn out on both, it seems to have a very small sweet spot, unlike my 036 which is far more tolerant on tuning.
 
I am 1 turn out on both, it seems to have a very small sweet spot, unlike my 036 which is far more tolerant on tuning.
The difference between a "fully adjustable carb" (ALL fuel goes through the needle) and a "bypass" carb where only part goes through the needle.

Now go cut wood under load at WOT to seat the rings. It takes compression pressure to do this. Idle won't do anything.
 
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