Yeah saw was pulled over several times, and test was done on several different occasions, old rings was 135psi after I purchased it. The new rings are showing a bit of wear mostly on where the ring gap is, that is the part out the cylinder that also has very light scoring, cannot be felt with fingernail etc etc, also couple of other spots on the rings.
Stihl 044 what did i do wrong? EDIT: I think It's Fixed
- Thread starter Indy Red
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Ok I have just done another compression test with the carb on this time through the intake hose, It is leaking air out of the throttle shaft of BOTH the new and old carb, I know it will lose pressure out of them but I cannot even get a reading it is leaking that fast, would that be the problem?
The muffler is also covered inside with what looks like used car engine oil, It was so thick I'm worried Opec will be round to start drilling.
Would a Walbro HD-19 fit instead of the Walbro HD-15B, The 19 is the only used one on Ebay
The muffler is also covered inside with what looks like used car engine oil, It was so thick I'm worried Opec will be round to start drilling.
Would a Walbro HD-19 fit instead of the Walbro HD-15B, The 19 is the only used one on Ebay
You have to block off between the carb and the cylinder itself.
This setup test the intake boot also.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/3650003183...WWit8wHXNewBjWS+Tz9YV6wg==|tkp:Bk9SR6qovIyaZA
https://www.ebay.com/itm/3852372883...XAEzhpBaempcWdCIwTgDcmiw==|tkp:Bk9SR4Cf1oyaZA
This setup test the intake boot also.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/3650003183...WWit8wHXNewBjWS+Tz9YV6wg==|tkp:Bk9SR6qovIyaZA
https://www.ebay.com/itm/3852372883...XAEzhpBaempcWdCIwTgDcmiw==|tkp:Bk9SR4Cf1oyaZA
I am showing that 044 can be set up with these carbs (HD-10, 11, 15 and 17, along with a couple of others), see attachment.
Have done all that mate, pressure/vac tests fine, I just wanted to see if it leaked between carb/intake boot
SteveSr
Addicted to ArboristSite
Did you pressure test the fuel inlet of the amazon carb? AM carbs can be dodgy.
Did you put grease between the FW side worm gear spacer? This is sort of a built-in leak This spacer goes between the crankshaft and the FW seal underneath the clutch.
Only other thought at this moment is if the crank seals are driven to the correct depth and if one of them may have lost a spring during the install process.
Did you put grease between the FW side worm gear spacer? This is sort of a built-in leak This spacer goes between the crankshaft and the FW seal underneath the clutch.
Only other thought at this moment is if the crank seals are driven to the correct depth and if one of them may have lost a spring during the install process.
SteveSr
Addicted to ArboristSite
I just looked at this photo again in closeup. The throttle plate appears to be on the WRONG side of the shaft. Note that the notch in the plate needs to go inline with the idle drillings in the carb throat. If it is the correct parts you should be able to turn it back around and have it work.
I was thinking intake boot too. Is it clamped on proper too?
Do you mean the bushing under the oiler? If so that was replaced as it was leaking air, the seals were driven in using the Stihl tools.
The AM carb was also pressure/vac tested and was fine.
Oh good spot, will swap round after I finish my nightshift, 8 week back order on part, I did notice a line/marks where the plate finished but it no longer hits those marks and I've noticed it seems to sit on top of the 2nd drilling
Have a feeling this saw has been messed about with
When you say compression test here I presume you mean pressure test? Carb will always leak that much on the shaft, that is why it must be sealed on the cylinder side of the carb.
I have had a saw develop a case leak between the crankcase & oil tank. It caused similar symptoms to what you are experiencing & did not show up doing a normal pressure/vac test.
I would drain all fluids, seal intake & exhaust, open the oil tank & then pressurise it & dunk it in a container of soapy water
SteveSr
Addicted to ArboristSite
That's the one. You shouldn't have had to replace it. Just seal it with some thick grease between the crank and sleeve.
It would explain the oil in your muffler & the variation in running/tuning. If the leak is bad enough just emptying the oil tank & leaving the cap off should make a noticeable difference to it running & show up with a pressure/vac test
Still stuck at work so have been looking at pictures of the HD-15 and the throttle plate does appear to be on the inner part of the shaft, you still think it's on the wrong side or do you mean the shaft needs to be spun 180 degrees?
SteveSr
Addicted to ArboristSite
Throttle plate is on the wrong side. When it is on correctly the only daylight that you should see in the bore is through the cutout by the idle drillings. Seat the plate in the bore and THEN tighten the screw. Throttle shaft should only go one way or the linkage won't line up if backwards
BTW, does anyone have the Walbro documentation for the HD series? All that I can find in my archive is the HDA (HDB, HDC) which appears to be older which uses a circuit plate instead of a welch plug. I have attached the 1994 HDA lit as it still has a good theory of ops even if it is not exact for the HD model.
Thanks will have a read, so I removed the flap and put it on the front but it just jams in the bore and will not turn, have a feeling its the wrong plate, worse still is I tried all day to put it back how it was and its impossible
SteveSr
Addicted to ArboristSite
Did you get it right side up? look at the bevel on the edge of the plate. It only fits one direction and will definitely jam if upside down.
Did not matter mate, both ways would jam, will try again but new part on the way anyway
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