MS192T on small removals

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Newguy12358

ArboristSite Lurker
Joined
Aug 31, 2011
Messages
35
Reaction score
4
Location
New Jersey
I have about 6 removals, and some pruning to do. Tree diameters range from 6-10" would a 192t be adequate to accomplish this? All oaks BTW
 
Yes. Though it would not be the ultimum ,it should be adequate.

Be carefull when making the last cut [your flush cut] not to overheat the saw .
The problem with flush cutting with a top handled saw is the exhaust exits the right side ,which means you will basicly be stopping up the exhaust with the ground when it is turned on it's side.
Don't flush cut for more than 2 or 3 seconds at a time.Cut a little ,pull the saw out ,tip it to the normal position,bleep the throttle a few times to let the exhaust clear up ,then cut a little bit more.

I've seen a lot of good trim saws destroyed by being burned up flushing stumps.
 
Funny you should ask that question...I traded up a MS 192t yesterday. It badly needed a chain, I got a new one today and tried it on some firewood. I was very impressed at the cutting speed, especially considering the dimunitive size and weight of the saw. I have a ms660 for the ground-level cutting, so that's not an issue.

BTW, I have $33 bucks in the MS192T, I had to buy some parts for the other saw(free) to fix it. It was a Poulan Pro 42cc saw...hadn't been started in years and was missing bar/chain, and handlebar. I found a handlebar that would fit from another saw, and bought a new oregon bar/chain. Traded for a guy who needed a firewood saw...the top handle saw didn't seem like a real chainsaw to him, and he knew I could put it to better use.
 
I have about 6 removals, and some pruning to do. Tree diameters range from 6-10" would a 192t be adequate to accomplish this? All oaks BTW

That saw is more than capable to do what you want. Question is, is that the saw you have or are you intending on buying one? If you have it go for it, or if you can wait and buy a 200-201, 338xpt than wait....once you use one you wont want to go back to a 192. I think there is an equation like Horse Power squared X Testosterone = big grin!:rock:
Scrat
 
I can wait, Just not sure if I could justify $620 over $320 for a 200T. My only concern is safety while in the tree while pruning and topping. I don't want to worry about to slow of a back cut. I know most of the pros use the 200T and don't speak highly of the 192T. I talked to an old tree climber and the owner of the Stihl shop and he told me I didnt need the 200T for what I wanted to do. (even though he had a 200T and not a 192T in stock). Safety is my only concern here really.
 
Tree work has been done for years with saws a lot slower than a 192. Use good cutting technique, deep enough face-cuts, etc., and you will be just fine.
 
the 192 is a more then capable saw our company wont buy 200's because they are cheap ***** so we have no choice but to run them and yea they dont cut as fast as a 200 but they do get the job done. the guys have never had any issues with the saw cutting too slow if you need the saw to cut "fast" there is something else you should be doing different( deeper, wider, narrower notch, snap cut... ) to help eliminate the need to cut faster. for a few 6-10" trees the 192 is more then enough for those sized trees you could do it with a nice hand saw:msp_wink:
 
I can wait, Just not sure if I could justify $620 over $320 for a 200T. My only concern is safety while in the tree while pruning and topping. I don't want to worry about to slow of a back cut. I know most of the pros use the 200T and don't speak highly of the 192T. I talked to an old tree climber and the owner of the Stihl shop and he told me I didnt need the 200T for what I wanted to do. (even though he had a 200T and not a 192T in stock). Safety is my only concern here really.

get that 200t as soon as you can afford it, lest you never get one -- Stihl has recently replaced it with the 201, and so far, 200T users are disappointed.

that having been said -- the 192 should be more than enough for the project you described. I have a 020T, 3 200T's, a 192T and a 192TC. (had Husky's climbing saw and its been sold lol) 200T is WORTH THE $600.

If you do get the 192, get the smaller bar, remove the spark arrestor, drill the muffler hole a little wider & cut the baffles off the sidecover (I can post pics if you ask), and remove the limiting caps and you'll be much happier with it.

Good luck with your project.
 
Iustinian,
Thanks you just told me what I wanted to hear.:msp_w00t:, my wife just annoyed me too so what a beeter time to buy a 200T!:evilgrin: All kidding aside, I always did better having a little more than what I needed to do any job. I always regretted going with the cheaper of two choices no matter what the situation, (when it comes to tools and equip). That said I do think the 192 would serve me well if I choose to go with it, and I got alot of good advice from everyone on here. What to do... I'll know in about 4 hours.
 
Well fellas I did it. I got a 200T, and they are getting scarce i can tell you. I don't think i'll regret it. I do feel a little guilty though, being a guy that will probably not use it to its potential.
 
That's awesome newguy.But the same thing still applies for cutting stumps.The 200t will have the exhaust pressed against the ground when cutting stumps the same as the 192.

Be a shame to ruin a great saw.
 
Well fellas I did it. I got a 200T, and they are getting scarce i can tell you. I don't think i'll regret it. I do feel a little guilty though, being a guy that will probably not use it to its potential.

Gratz on the purchase! you'll love that saw.

dont feel too bad, probably wont be too hard to sell it if you needed too. Used MS 361's sell for near new price, I think bc they replaced it with 362.

If ya ever get around this way, you're welcome to test cut the muffler modded 192, 260Pro, 210, 170, 361, several ported/modded 460's, 660, or 088
 
Last edited:
Good advise Oz thanks.
My saw came with a 16" bar on it but I had it switched to a 14. Limbing, Topping, and Chunking is what I plan on doing. I have enough clear room to drop with my buddies farm boss once I get down the trunk past where I would need more than a 14" bar.
 
takes about 5 minutes, and REALLY helps wake this little saw up

I second Rudedog. I would like to see pics of the mods you described.

IMG00274-20111122-2247.jpg


IMG00276-20111122-2247.jpg


close-up - the hole you see was drilled slightly larger, take the side cover off and cut that portion of the baffle off

IMG00277-20111122-2248.jpg


this spark arrestor/screen -- when you take the side cover off, you will see the top peice, easily removed with a screwdriver. The screen can become plugged with unburned hydrocarbons and the saw will run very poorly. This is common if you run the saw too rich or use crappy 2 cycle oil. I can tell you from experience, Stihl, Amsoil, and Royal Purple are worth using; I've seen side-by-side the difference in cylinders in saws run on cheap stuff and the good stuff.

Anyway, hope you enjoy the pics.
 
Appreciate you taking the time to put those up. Definitely going to be adding that to my to do list in the shop this weekend. Seems like a straight forward mod that will leave me happy with the results. Thanks again Iustinian.
 
Appreciate you taking the time to put those up. Definitely going to be adding that to my to do list in the shop this weekend. Seems like a straight forward mod that will leave me happy with the results. Thanks again Iustinian.

no problem, I'm getting ready to start some porting on a 361 soon, and a 441CM when I get time to map it. That little mod on your 192 takes about five minutes and pretty easy.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top