MS200t bogging/stalling on startup

[Nathan Graff]

I don't know. Been about 1/3 of a gallon coming from the same can in that saw, and I haven't finished the can yet. Maybe I should add a cap full or 2 of seafoam to the tank and run it, see if that fixes it.

I was thinking of muffler modding the saw. How big of a hole should I drill in the muffler?

they have a rate of 2 oz per gallon of premix for 2 stroke right on the can? ive used it lots on 2 strokes, even had it turn non runners into runners after a couple weeks of sitting in the carb.

To be clear, are you talking about adding seafoam to the premix gas?

 

[cus_deluxe]

yes, a little dash of seafoam in your mixed gas wont hurt a thing. not sure it will solve ur problem, but it certainly wont cause ur saw to melt down.

 

[Nathan Graff]

So, the saw started to start normally for a bit, then went back to bogging. It seemed to stop bogging when I pulled the spark arestor screen, but I think more testing is necessary to rule that out. The screen has been burned clean.

However, I'm not comfortable running the saw without the screen due to how dry it is here on any given day. I'd rather have the screen and drill another exhaust hole, or leave the saw as is.

I put some seafoam in the gas, and I start it every few days and run it for a bit. Seems to be smoothing out a bit at startup.

 

[dmb2613]

I am sure I WILL CATCH SOME GREEF ON THIS, BUT THERE IS NOTHING YOU CAN BUY IN A CAN THAT WILL FIX A CHAINSAW

 

[68 Buick]

If you are careful usually can remove diaphragm without tearing it. While you are in there, check carb internal mesh screen/filter.

There was a good tip a while back to put a film of vasilene on carb gaskets/diaphragms and they come off without tearing.

I agree with the Mad Professor, I have found a lot of times that the internal mesh captured too much trash and cleaning the mesh out seem to work.

 

[Nathan Graff]

So, I haven't had much time with farming to play with my saw, but a few weeks ago, there was a mess of snow that broke a bunch of trees. I brought out the MS200t, and it ran just fine. It didn't stall, and no other problems with it.

Dad was surprised how fast that little saw ripped through those apple tree branches.

 

[lone wolf]

I am sure I WILL CATCH SOME GREEF ON THIS, BUT THERE IS NOTHING YOU CAN BUY IN A CAN THAT WILL FIX A CHAINSAW

Put that as your Sig!

 

[SCHallenger]

Leave the muffler alone! Just pull out the screen and it will gain about 1 second in a 10 inch cut.

+1. Yeah, the 200 rear handle I was talking to you about has had the screen removed. That produces an immediate muff mod with NO drilling of the muff required. After doing that, you will likely have to remove the limiter from the H needle so you can safely & correctly retune to a richer mixture. Mine gained 1K RPM after removing a dirty screen! Made a real efficient screamer out of it!

 

[lone wolf]

+1. Yeah, the 200 rear handle I was talking to you about has had the screen removed. That produces an immediate muff mod with NO drilling of the muff required. After doing that, you will likely have to remove the limiter from the H needle so you can safely & correctly retune to a richer mixture. Mine gained 1K RPM after removing a dirty screen! Made a real efficient screamer out of it!

Yes cold weather is coming so you need to run them a tad richer cut the limiter off the H.

 

[Nathan Graff]

So, I've been playing with the saw off and on. Today, I pulled the carb, it's a model S61A, cleaned it up, put it back in, and started the saw. After starting and warming up, the first rev went fine, but after that it started to bog. If I feathered the throttle, it worked the next rev or 2, then after that wouldn't get up to speed.

I'm wondering if it's a crank seal issue.

 

[lone wolf]

So, I've been playing with the saw off and on. Today, I pulled the carb, it's a model S61A, cleaned it up, put it back in, and started the saw. After starting and warming up, the first rev went fine, but after that it started to bog. If I feathered the throttle, it worked the next rev or 2, then after that wouldn't get up to speed.

I'm wondering if it's a crank seal issue.

Only way to easily tell is either a new or working carb or a pressure test. Usually its the carb.

 

[Nathan Graff]

Is there a way to plug off the acc pump on the S61 carbs? Or should I go for the 126 series carbs?

 

[lone wolf]

Is there a way to plug off the acc pump on the S61 carbs? Or should I go for the 126 series carbs?

126 series is better. Does you carb have an accelerator pump? Send me a pic of the carb.

 

[lone wolf]

 

[lone wolf]

If it dont have the plate by the green arrow no pump is there.

 

[Nathan Graff]

Here's the pic of the carb.

2019-11-16_11-31-34 by wolverine00089, on Flickr

 

[Gypo Logger]

Sometimes debris can be caught between the screen in the carb and the metering assembly. Take them both out and hold it up to a light. You should be able to see through clearly.

 

[Nathan Graff]

I did that as well.

 

[lone wolf]

Here's the pic of the carb.

2019-11-16_11-31-34 by wolverine00089, on Flickr

Now one from the other direction .

 

[Nathan Graff]

It's a bit blurry. I couldn't get my camera to focus.

2019-11-16_05-38-41 by wolverine00089, on Flickr