MS201T Upgrade Kit Installed

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Planning on buying a 201 this week...is there a date somewhere that shows when it was made to know if you're getting the upgrade?
 
I've heard the new, upgraded version has a sticker on the case in the front of the saw. Usually where the sticker "Made in Germany" is.. I think it will have the make and serial numbers on the sticker as I've seen on our newer saws. Im not a dealer. Just a arborist who plays with saws all day..haha...
 
I've heard the new, upgraded version has a sticker on the case in the front of the saw. Usually where the sticker "Made in Germany" is.. I think it will have the make and serial numbers on the sticker as I've seen on our newer saws. Im not a dealer. Just a arborist who plays with saws all day..haha...
Thanks!
 
The kits supposed to increase the rev limiter from 13,600 to 14,000 or 14,100 supposedly? Also bigger carb for faster throttle response. But all new 201t's made from February 24th of this year already have the kit installed. I priced the kit out at my local dealer at $138.00... if you have both saws, can you see where they stand rev wise? From your vids the saw before and after sounds like its revving a tad higher. But that's all I see. Cut times seem relatively equal.
Thanks for that info. I thought that perhaps the rev limiter was a little higher. That won't do anything to help performance though. Is there a Serial Number break point? That would be most helpful.
 
Brad,

Thanks for all of the info you have posted and work you did with regards to the MS201t.

I had a couple of questions regarding the carburetor basic settings.

I know you state you set L at around 1 1/8 turns out and the H between 2 - 2 5/8 turns out. I was wondering what setting you used on the carb that came with the enhancement kit (upgrade kit)?

Also I was wondering what the factory settings are for the original carburetor (H & L) and the carburetor that came with the upgrade kit (H & L).

My final question is how much of the key do you remove from the upgrade kit fly wheel. Do you still take off the ~1/3rd of the key?

Thanks,
Brandon
 
1-1 1/8 on the L, 2 1/2 on the H is where I usually end up. These are brand new saws from my dealer. You have to tune your modded saw by ear though. You cannot take someone elses settings and call it good.

I don't know exactly what the factory settings are.

I remove about 1/3 of the key, then put it in place using a degree wheel. I give them 6°-8° of advance, then lock it in place with the flywheel nut.
 
Thanks Brad. I am getting similar settings approx. 1-1/8 for the L and 2-1/4 for the H using an early version (pre-upgraded) carburetor. Any richer on the H and the saw bogs down in the cut. All hesitation is now gone thankfully. I do find it hard to tell when the saw is four stroking even in the cut with these rev limited saws.

Also do you notice fuel consumption increases notably after the mods?
 
Thanks Brad. I am getting similar settings approx. 1-1/8 for the L and 2-1/4 for the H using an early version (pre-upgraded) carburetor. Any richer on the H and the saw bogs down in the cut. All hesitation is now gone thankfully. I do find it hard to tell when the saw is four stroking even in the cut with these rev limited saws.

Also do you notice fuel consumption increases notably after the mods?
One of my users would have to answer that. I tune them and send them out the door.
 
I think they use more fuel for sure after the mod , i also find the easier to tune in the cut in small bits of wood rather than a full bar buried when i first modded mine it cleaned up nicely in the cut after 4 stroking then i heard one of the boys pruning with it and sounded really rich and probibly went a quarter turn in i think , they also seem to like been really lean on the l u have to let them idle for about 20 seconds the snap the throttle to make sure they still have good respone , i gotta say they are GREAT saws after modding and thankyou very much for sharing blsnelling
 
I have a yet to be installed upgrade kit with the latest S283 carburetor with the H initially locked in place. Just thought I would share after removing the limiter pin that from the factory the S283 carb is set to: L = 1 turn out & H = 1-3/4 turns out.
 
The limiter cap was removed as well as the pin prior to making the H = 1-3/4 turns out reading from the factory on the S283 carb. With this carb there is zero H adjustment prior to removing the cap.

Also I have measured the amount of advance on the new flywheel from the upgrade kit and it is ~5 degrees.

I find with the upgrade kit installed with the flywheel advanced to 7 deg (without the muffler mod) the optimum carb settings are L = 1 turn out, H = 2 turns out.

Also just wanted to note that it is very easy to just press the limiter pin out of the carb (no drilling required) after the limiter cap is removed. Just need a vice and a slightly smaller pin/punch. After the pin is removed you can reinstall the cap with unrestricted adjustment.
 
"Also just wanted to note that it is very easy to just press the limiter pin out of the carb (no drilling required) after the limiter cap is removed. Just need a vice and a slightly smaller pin/punch. After the pin is removed you can reinstall the cap with unrestricted adjustment."

I have modified four of these carbs. Care to share with me as to how you removed H cap with pin in place?
That would really simplify this modification.
 
"Also just wanted to note that it is very easy to just press the limiter pin out of the carb (no drilling required) after the limiter cap is removed. Just need a vice and a slightly smaller pin/punch. After the pin is removed you can reinstall the cap with unrestricted adjustment."

I have modified four of these carbs. Care to share with me as to how you removed H cap with pin in place?
That would really simplify this modification.

To remove the cap without drilling out the pin you just need to press the pin (which is a light press) using a small pin, nail, or screw using a vise or other clamping means through the carb body and into the cap. Then you can remove the cap using the specialty Stihl carb cab removal tool which is a reverse threaded puller or by just tapping a screw into the end of the cap and pulling it out.
 
Just want to say nice work brad. I have done a couple of these for or tree crews. Word is spreading and the do pick up a pile.
 
To remove the cap without drilling out the pin you just need to press the pin (which is a light press) using a small pin, nail, or screw using a vise or other clamping means through the carb body and into the cap. Then you can remove the cap using the specialty Stihl carb cab removal tool which is a reverse threaded puller or by just tapping a screw into the end of the cap and pulling it out.
Thanks, BRS ---I will try that.
 
My MS201t was a lemon saw. It ran average for 1 year then wouldn't cut properly. I couldn't figure out what was wrong with it. So I went to the local stihl shop and asked for a new ignition module which they didn't have in stock but they did have this "upgrade kit" which I purchased for au $35.00. The kit makes these lemon recall saws fully functional, its a con really, I reckon Stihl had to release this upgrade kit because the saws were not of merchantable quality. Some rogue Stihl shops are even demanding a $200 fee to install this "upgrade kit", refusing to sell you the ignition carby and flywheel, like I got for $35. BTW I've worked at consumer protection - if your MS201t is dodgy but not under warranty then technically, you can still access a right to get it fixed free of charge if you allege that the saw was not of merchantable quality, especially cos its a very expensive saw.
 
In 2012 I bought one of these POS-- NEW. It has set for about two years with a non-firing coil. After reading post on this site and others, I tried to purchase a new ignition coil. I talked with my two local dealers and, surprisingly, found that they knew nothing of Stihl's manufacturing screw up.
I was given a phone number for Stihl and spoke to a 'Chris"
My MS201t was a lemon saw. It ran average for 1 year then wouldn't cut properly. I couldn't figure out what was wrong with it. So I went to the local stihl shop and asked for a new ignition module which they didn't have in stock but they did have this "upgrade kit" which I purchased for au $35.00. The kit makes these lemon recall saws fully functional, its a con really, I reckon Stihl had to release this upgrade kit because the saws were not of merchantable quality. Some rogue Stihl shops are even demanding a $200 fee to install this "upgrade kit", refusing to sell you the ignition carby and flywheel, like I got for $35. BTW I've worked at consumer protection - if your MS201t is dodgy but not under warranty then technically, you can still access a right to get it fixed free of charge if you allege that the saw was not of merchantable quality, especially cos its a very expensive saw.
a representative. He was of very little help and in the end offered to replace the defective coil if I paid dealer labor to replace. Problem was---Stihl would only replace with another OLD DESIGN COIL! ! January of this year, My dealer agreed to contact Stihl for the details and, to date, I still have a non-running $600.00 + saw!
What a great product backing!!!
 

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