MS201T

[Tcirre]

Have a 201t that I keep having bounding up issues with. Have put a new chain, bar and clutch on so far and still having the issue. Will run freely as it should for awhile and then all of a sudden seize up and I have to loosen the bar to free it up. No plastic or guard damage so I’m not sure what’s causing it or where to look! TIA!

 

[Woodslasher]

Are you sure the bar/chain are the same gauge and the chain, bar, and clutch drum are the same pitch? Also, are you cutting wet/punky wood? My MS250 would bind up fairly frequently when I was cutting wet, rotten pine logs because the wood would pack up in the bar rails over time.

 

[Tcirre]

Are you sure the bar/chain are the same gauge and the chain, bar, and clutch drum are the same pitch? Also, are you cutting wet/punky wood? My MS250 would bind up fairly frequently when I was cutting wet, rotten pine logs because the wood would pack up in the bar rails over time.

Everything is to spec. I have the issue when cutting anything dry as well as just free running in my hand without cutting. Was wondering if a bent crank could be a culprit but I didn’t want to break the whole thing down if someone had other suggestions.

 

[Woodslasher]

Everything is to spec. I have the issue when cutting anything dry as well as just free running in my hand without cutting. Was wondering if a bent crank could be a culprit but I didn’t want to break the whole thing down if someone had other suggestions.

I would think a bent crank would not be an "occasional" problem, rather it would cause binding after each revolution. When you have to loosen the bar, what exactly gets freed up? Is the chain "stuck" in the bar groove? Is the chain too tight?

 

[Tcirre]

I would think a bent crank would not be an "occasional" problem, rather it would cause binding after each revolution. When you have to loosen the bar, what exactly gets freed up? Is the chain "stuck" in the bar groove? Is the chain too tight?

Yeah I was thinking the same for the crank but wasn’t sure. It’s runs like a peach and then binds up like a normal chip jam or bar crud but I can’t free it by log like normal. I have to loosen the tensioner and most times the casing and the chain will free up. It’s hard to really explain and almost impossible to film as it’s so hit and miss happening lol. Now that I’m thinking about it I wonder if my tensioner is somehow running itself tight. I have heard of this in newer models…?

 

[trains]

did you replace the clutch bearing at the same time ?
sounds typical of a worn clutch sprocket, but you replaced yours.
And as already mentioned above, check the pitch is correct too, incase you got the wrong chain in a miss labeled box.

 

[trains]

Yeah I was thinking the same for the crank but wasn’t sure. It’s runs like a peach and then binds up like a normal chip jam or bar crud but I can’t free it by log like normal. I have to loosen the tensioner and most times the casing and the chain will free up. It’s hard to really explain and almost impossible to film as it’s so hit and miss happening lol. Now that I’m thinking about it I wonder if my tensioner is somehow running itself tight. I have heard of this in newer models…?

When that happens, is the bar rail jammed with debrits, or a build up anywhere else? sprocket nose of bar jamming up ?

 

[Tcirre]

When that happens, is the bar rail jammed with debrits, or a build up anywhere else? sprocket nose of bar jamming up ?

Drum(Sprocket), Clutch and bearing were all replaced together. That was my initial diagnosis. But it’s continuing to occur. Correct bar and chain. It happened with old bar and chain as well. There is no build up any where on saw or bar. I’m beginning to believe it may be a tensioner self tightening somehow. I’m open to other opinions but will be trying the zip tie block trick on tensioner this weekend when I get a chance.

 

[trains]

Drum(Sprocket), Clutch and bearing were all replaced together. That was my initial diagnosis. But it’s continuing to occur. Correct bar and chain. It happened with old bar and chain as well. There is no build up any where on saw or bar. I’m beginning to believe it may be a tensioner self tightening somehow. I’m open to other opinions but will be trying the zip tie block trick on tensioner this weekend when I get a chance.

hate to ask, but are you lifting up the tip of the bar when setting the initial tension, and snugging up the bar nut (dont need to over tighten it).
Is the bar then shifting down, and back up again during use ?
bar mount area not clean can cause issues with bar not being kept captive.
dont go all gorilla on tightening up the bar nut.

 

[Tcirre]

hate to ask, but are you lifting up the tip of the bar when setting the initial tension, and snugging up the bar nut (dont need to over tighten it).
Is the bar then shifting down, and back up again during use ?
bar mount area not clean can cause issues with bar not being kept captive.
dont go all gorilla on tightening up the bar nut.

Kind of offensive but I’ve had worse lol. Yes tip pulled. I tension with about 1 drive above and damn near just past hand tight bar nuts on all saws. Never had this issue aside from the minor and occasional jam up/binds that you can free up on the wood.

 

[tomalophicon]

I had a friend who had a Chinese clone saw which would do the same. The adjustment screw was bent or something (can't remember the full details) and the chain would get tighter and tighter as it ran till it got to the point it wouldn't spin. I think he scrapped the saw though so can't comment on the fix.
Tom.

 

[Tcirre]

I had a friend who had a Chinese clone saw which would do the same. The adjustment screw was bent or something (can't remember the full details) and the chain would get tighter and tighter as it ran till it got to the point it wouldn't spin. I think he scrapped the saw though so can't comment on the fix.
Tom.

I’ve seen it happen before. Most recently on the husky 540i. I actually recall watching a random video on YouTube that ended showing a zip tie used as a wedge in the tensioner space. I’ll have to see if this is possibly my issue and bandage it or order the parts! I’ll keep watching this but will also circle back with my findings!

 

[trains]

Kind of offensive but I’ve had worse lol. Yes tip pulled. I tension with about 1 drive above and damn near just past hand tight bar nuts on all saws. Never had this issue aside from the minor and occasional jam up/binds that you can free up on the wood.

All good, one of the issues when trying to diagnose sight unseen, and other side of the world, question was more for me and clarification so we dont leap frog over the problem.
is the tensioner screw/ stub that engages the bar bent ?
Again, I ask, when it binds up, is the bar sprocket jammed with wood fibers, or fibers jammed up in the bar rail ?
I havent read where you ruled that out yet.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

Again, I ask, when it binds up, is the bar sprocket jammed with wood fibers, or fibers jammed up in the bar rail ?
I havent read where you ruled that out yet.

I take the answer to that last question as- I have the issue when cutting anything dry as well as just free running in my hand without cutting
Or- There is no build up any where on saw or bar.

 

[lone wolf]

Drum(Sprocket), Clutch and bearing were all replaced together. That was my initial diagnosis. But it’s continuing to occur. Correct bar and chain. It happened with old bar and chain as well. There is no build up any where on saw or bar. I’m beginning to believe it may be a tensioner self tightening somehow. I’m open to other opinions but will be trying the zip tie block trick on tensioner this weekend when I get a chance.

Tensionor cant tighten after the bar nut is tightened. Is it oiling? Are you leaving enough slack in the chain ? Sprocket new?

 

[Tobystihl]

Run the chain a little slacker, turn up the pump to max, these 201's are miserly with the oil, something to do with the emissions and saving the planet !