MS250

[Opihi59]

Since no spark now, I'd be interested to the point of almost suspect that your original coil is ok. Hopefully you kept it just in case. I think it's time to start posting pics of the setup. One pic I saw in post 14 looked like a large gap b/n coil and flywheel. Could just be angle of pic though but looked more than a business card thickness to me.

I'm trying to follow suggestions. Gap is at 0.015 by feeler gauge. Yes I did keep the original coil, and perhaps I may just swap it back in, once I pull the flywheel and reinstall it. Currently is getting a PB blaster soak. I do not know if the case is cast, or is plastic. It seems to me that this era of saw would not be plastic, but I haven't tested that yet.

I'll try some more on the saw and see about the recommendations to start it w minimal choke, etc to avoid flooding. Never realized these were problematic saws with flooding.

 

[Patrick62]

never worked on a 011. MY experience with the smaller cylinders (saws, weed trimmers, etc) is that they can be ever more temperamental. You go thru the usual checks, when they are right they work pretty nice. My little 150T is a good one.
Going back to those echo's that I had... my gosh I fought them when they got cranky

 

[stihltech]

I think I got lost here.
If we are talking the 250, the case is plastic. If we are talking the 011, the case is metal.
Ground wire to case needed on 250, not on 011. And yes the coil must ground to metal either way.

When we first saw 029s with plastic cases, we said "That will never last".
And I am still working on those original running 029s.

 

[Opihi59]

Okay folks. Pulled flywheel, key was fine, had not spun on the crank. Antiseized and reinstalled. Put saw back together with the OEM original coil, set gap at like 0.012". Gave one pull on full choke and it "suggested" it was willing to fire up. Put on no choke and cranked and it started on like the 3rd pull. It ran fine, twisted up the idle, re started a few times on wide open/no choke. It was spitting gas out the exhaust after running/during running......muffler got wet on the outside. So now it's a flooding/carb issue?
I am curious if it is a Diaphragm and Gasket kit issue now, or should I find a new carb? I get the feeling I could blow out the cylinder w air, and it would run again. Just got that feeling, but at the moment I'm sitting back and thinking.

 

[Opihi59]

Following the successful start and run series above, I shut it off. It wouldn't re start until I let it dry out/aired out via pulling muffler/plug etc......and then it fired up on the first crank. While it runs, muffler gets wet with gas so I'm pretty sure it's being overserved with fuel.
I only use ETOH-free gas, with Stabil. I don't use synthetic 2-stroke oil though. Video w wet muffler after running a bit. I don't seem to recall having wet mufflers in the last 50 or so years.

 

[ZeroJunk]

Following the successful start and run series above, I shut it off. It wouldn't re start until I let it dry out/aired out via pulling muffler/plug etc......and then it fired up on the first crank. While it runs, muffler gets wet with gas so I'm pretty sure it's being overserved with fuel.
I only use ETOH-free gas, with Stabil. I don't use synthetic 2-stroke oil though. Video w wet muffler after running a bit. I don't seem to recall having wet mufflers in the last 50 or so years.

Run it for a while and see. A lot of fuel can pile up in the bottom of that crankcase and once you got it started, it is just spitting it out.

If it keeps doing it bite the bullet and buy an OEM carb. Or, put a kit in the carb you have. Old carbs or any carbs can have a stiff diaphragm just laying on the metering needle all the time.

 

[Opihi59]

Run it for a while and see. A lot of fuel can pile up in the bottom of that crankcase and once you got it started, it is just spitting it out.

If it keeps doing it bite the bullet and buy an OEM carb. Or, put a kit in the carb you have. Old carbs or any carbs can have a stiff diaphragm just laying on the metering needle all the time.

Okay. This does make some sense. I'll run it, but will also start looking for a DG kit.

 

[Patrick62]

the metering diaphram isn't expensive. I have repaired bunches of those with just a couple of diaphrams...
Glad you got it going. check the carb out pretty well tho. the 250 is one of the easier ones to remove!