firedog,
I prefer pitched roofs...don't have to bend over so much.
What chain ya'll using?
I prefer pitched roofs...don't have to bend over so much.
What chain ya'll using?
Stihl makes a saw; Rescue 460, for firefighters and echo makes one that has a angled bar on it for structure venting. Might look at those.firedog said:Glad you guys liked the pictures just thought it would be something diferent for everyone. Tell you what a roof with a few layers of comp on it can really make a mess of a saw. Nothing like a heavy tar build up. They get totally stripped after each fire, chains get sent in because we usually break to many teeth or they are jsut plain dull. The saws we use at work are Unifire, a Husky 372 with a couple modifications and a big price tag is what they are. Rumor has it the bureau is looking into Stihl's for both our Chainsaws and Rotary saws.
I like the feel of my 361 with the 24' bar on it. Isn't awkward to carry at all. haven't had it out to use it yet but it should be fine. The saws at work balance isn't the big isue being able to get through all the crud is the most important, and running well of course. nothing worse than being on a roof with a saw that won't start.
What is quoted above, was about what I knew before your post, the rest of the post was new information - food for thoughts.....fishhuntcutwood said:I do indeed mean a full wrap handlebar. Full wraps are also known as "Western" style bars, er, handlebars as well. It comes from the pros out here felling trees on heavy, steep inclines, and being able to only work a tree from one side, ..............Jeff
Agree, I don't want the bar tip to be close to the ground, into grass and undergrowth, when carrying the saw.glens said:In my opinion the proper length bar for a saw is one with which the bar will be very nearly horizontal when the saw is held one-handed with the side of the front handle, but then I use a chainsaw in conjunction with cutting trees.
glens said:How does the stuff from http://www.cuttersedge.com/products/bullet.html hold up and work? The carbide appears to be <i>very</i> well-supported.
That's another reason, I guess. I like it to be level so I have a ready reference for making felling cuts.SawTroll said:Agree, I don't want the bar tip to be close to the ground, into grass and undergrowth, when carrying the saw.glens said:In my opinion the proper length bar for a saw is one with which the bar will be very nearly horizontal when the saw is held one-handed with the side of the front handle, but then I use a chainsaw in conjunction with cutting trees.