MS361 Price?

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WRW, I agree on pitched roofs. We generally will use the Circ saw on a real steep roof though. I am not sure what chain we are using all I know is that they are carbide tipped and they bring us new ones when we need them :) . I will actually take a look at them tomorrow when I go to work.
 
Just keep in mind that the circular saw has a kickback potential with no safeguards. I personally would rather use chainsaw with one foot on a roof ladder and the other on a slippery haligan butt.
 
Know all about the kick back of a circ saw, we use them a lot and also drill a lot with them. my station has been getting buildings that are going to be torn down to go cut on. So we can go try new techniques and refine others. My station is one of the busiest in the city (Portland) for fires and were a double company so we get some decent roof time.
 
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Great pics firedog! And I agree about the saw balancing well with a 24", which is what I have on mine. But what's the deal with balance? I think that until you start getting up into the 32" range and the bar starts to get cumbersome, balance isn't all that paramount to me. Once it's in the wood, (or roof) balance is a mute point, and the saw is supported by the wood itself. Yes, a 28" is too much on an 026, or even a 361, and could get unweildy, but if the saw hangs a bit nose down, so what? I understand about it coming out of the back of a horizontal cut, and having to be able to keep the bar out of the dirt or whatever, but it all goes back to it not being cumbersome. If you can hold a 24" bar, and support it's weight, you'll have no problems. Just my thoughts on balance.

Take care all,
Jeff
 
In my opinion the proper length bar for a saw is one with which the bar will be very nearly horizontal when the saw is held one-handed with the side of the front handle, but then I use a chainsaw in conjunction with cutting trees.
 
Glad you guys liked the pictures just thought it would be something diferent for everyone. Tell you what a roof with a few layers of comp on it can really make a mess of a saw. Nothing like a heavy tar build up. They get totally stripped after each fire, chains get sent in because we usually break to many teeth or they are jsut plain dull. The saws we use at work are Unifire, a Husky 372 with a couple modifications and a big price tag is what they are. Rumor has it the bureau is looking into Stihl's for both our Chainsaws and Rotary saws.

I like the feel of my 361 with the 24' bar on it. Isn't awkward to carry at all. haven't had it out to use it yet but it should be fine. The saws at work balance isn't the big isue being able to get through all the crud is the most important, and running well of course. nothing worse than being on a roof with a saw that won't start.
 
IMHO Stihl makes the best chain for a vent saw. It's carbide lik the others but has an extra support silver soldered to the carbide. A modified right hand cutter is soldered to a left hand cutter so the carbide is supported from both sides. This really cuts down on broken teeth but the chain is $200 for a 20" loop!
 
There are some great Chains made especially for firefighting. Most of them are so highly priced it makes them hard to buy for a bigger dept. My Dept Has 9 trucks with saws on them and quite a few of the engines carry Chainsaws also. We carry a total of 4 chains with us so that runs into a fairly expensive bill just for chains. And we do break them, if you have something that you thin is unbreakable give it to some firefighters and it will get broke :) I would love to try them out some time though. We got to try this blade for a circ saw a couple years ago. Warthog Blade It was awesome but none of the circ saws we carry are big enough to run it, it recomends a 95 cc saw ours are 71cc. We are looking into bigger saws though :) It is amazing what they charge for things related to the fire service. Like I said our saws are nothing more than a Glorified 372XP and the cost over $1400.
 
firedog said:
Glad you guys liked the pictures just thought it would be something diferent for everyone. Tell you what a roof with a few layers of comp on it can really make a mess of a saw. Nothing like a heavy tar build up. They get totally stripped after each fire, chains get sent in because we usually break to many teeth or they are jsut plain dull. The saws we use at work are Unifire, a Husky 372 with a couple modifications and a big price tag is what they are. Rumor has it the bureau is looking into Stihl's for both our Chainsaws and Rotary saws.

I like the feel of my 361 with the 24' bar on it. Isn't awkward to carry at all. haven't had it out to use it yet but it should be fine. The saws at work balance isn't the big isue being able to get through all the crud is the most important, and running well of course. nothing worse than being on a roof with a saw that won't start.
Stihl makes a saw; Rescue 460, for firefighters and echo makes one that has a angled bar on it for structure venting. Might look at those.
 
fishhuntcutwood said:
I do indeed mean a full wrap handlebar. Full wraps are also known as "Western" style bars, er, handlebars as well. It comes from the pros out here felling trees on heavy, steep inclines, and being able to only work a tree from one side, ..............Jeff
What is quoted above, was about what I knew before your post, the rest of the post was new information - food for thoughts.....
Thank you for explaining, I will print out and save your post. :)
 
glens said:
In my opinion the proper length bar for a saw is one with which the bar will be very nearly horizontal when the saw is held one-handed with the side of the front handle, but then I use a chainsaw in conjunction with cutting trees.
Agree, I don't want the bar tip to be close to the ground, into grass and undergrowth, when carrying the saw.
 
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glens said:
How does the stuff from http://www.cuttersedge.com/products/bullet.html hold up and work?&nbsp; The carbide appears to be <i>very</i> well-supported.


Bullet chain works great with a low kickback potential. The manufacturer recommends high chain speed to keep from loading up the chain when cutting composite.
The Stihl chain is similar to the Raptor chain used on Ventmaster saws. I've never tried out the Stihl chain, but the Raptor chain is very agressive (for carbide chains).
 
SawTroll said:
glens said:
In my opinion the proper length bar for a saw is one with which the bar will be very nearly horizontal when the saw is held one-handed with the side of the front handle, but then I use a chainsaw in conjunction with cutting trees.
Agree, I don't want the bar tip to be close to the ground, into grass and undergrowth, when carrying the saw.
That's another reason, I guess.&nbsp; I like it to be level so I have a ready reference for making felling cuts.

Glen
 
Worked yesterday and took a quick look at the chains we are using. They look like the Stihl RDS chain. I don't think they are Stihl brand, might be. But will take more of a look Sat when I work again. we were to busy yesterday.

Treeclimber jul, From what I have been told we are looking into the Stihl rescue saw. Was on a fire last night and one of our crews was wusing a Stihl that they were testing. From what I have heard they like it real well. last night would have been a good comparison. we had the Stihl and 2 Husky/univents running along with two Univent Circ saws on the roof of a large 4 plex stripping roof.
 
Finally was able to get out and try out the new Saw today. What a great saw, I was cutting fir that had been down for a couple years and the MS361 with RS chain just melted through it. Can't wait till I get back up there and get to use it again :)
 
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