SteveSr
Addicted to ArboristSite
Hello,
Did some Hurricane Florence disaster recovery work and one of the guys brought a MS390 with the above b&c setup. I did most of the sawing with it on a 42" DBH pecan tree that failed the high wind test. the saw had a spur sprocket on it and showed some wear but not terrible.
The original chain (stihl RS) was not in good shape so after a few cuts the first day I sharpened the cutters that evening. While doing this I noticed that a goodly percentage of depth gauges were too low but decided to see how it would cut anyway. The chain cut but was very "grabby" and "catchy". Like to beat me to death trying to control it. I finally asked if he had any new out of the box chains and he did so I switched. Cut much smoother.
Finally got to the base of the tree and probably ran into some "hardware". Put on a second new chain and continued until I think I hit an embedded rock or maybe some more hardware. Went back later in the day and tried to remount the better of the 2 new chains so that I could field sharpen it only to find that they wouldn't fit in the bar groove any more. It appears that the end of some of the drive links had been peened.
So what likely caused the drive link peening? Worn sprocket or was it catching on the embedded hardware?
When I got home I found that this saw is only spec'd for 20" 3/8" setup. This may explain the weak bar oiling as well.
I am assuming that he will want to keep the 25" setup. Can you make any recommendations to "improve" this setup? My only thoughts are rim drive conversion and semi-chisel chain. Any thoughts about running half or full skip to lighten the load on the powerhead and oiler?
Thanks,
Steve
Did some Hurricane Florence disaster recovery work and one of the guys brought a MS390 with the above b&c setup. I did most of the sawing with it on a 42" DBH pecan tree that failed the high wind test. the saw had a spur sprocket on it and showed some wear but not terrible.
The original chain (stihl RS) was not in good shape so after a few cuts the first day I sharpened the cutters that evening. While doing this I noticed that a goodly percentage of depth gauges were too low but decided to see how it would cut anyway. The chain cut but was very "grabby" and "catchy". Like to beat me to death trying to control it. I finally asked if he had any new out of the box chains and he did so I switched. Cut much smoother.
Finally got to the base of the tree and probably ran into some "hardware". Put on a second new chain and continued until I think I hit an embedded rock or maybe some more hardware. Went back later in the day and tried to remount the better of the 2 new chains so that I could field sharpen it only to find that they wouldn't fit in the bar groove any more. It appears that the end of some of the drive links had been peened.
So what likely caused the drive link peening? Worn sprocket or was it catching on the embedded hardware?
When I got home I found that this saw is only spec'd for 20" 3/8" setup. This may explain the weak bar oiling as well.
I am assuming that he will want to keep the 25" setup. Can you make any recommendations to "improve" this setup? My only thoughts are rim drive conversion and semi-chisel chain. Any thoughts about running half or full skip to lighten the load on the powerhead and oiler?
Thanks,
Steve