plus no EPAYes...when the saws were not built as tight, and didn't run as fast or as hot
Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk
plus no EPAYes...when the saws were not built as tight, and didn't run as fast or as hot
Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk
This explains it fairly well despite the photos being AWOL. https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/poormans-guide-to-vacuum-testing.42768/the base of the cylinder seemed to have some light pitting, other than that it was almost new looking
the piston had very light scoring when we pulled the muffler, gonna see about a pressure test
what all does a pressure test need? do you just put the cylinder under pressure (with the piston at tdc) or do you individually check everything from the intake to the muffler?
Yes, I'm aware. I felt it pertinent at the time it was decent tid bit of information to share. not that I advocate for using straight weight oil, as we have much better options available.Yes...when the saws were not built as tight, and didn't run as fast or as hot
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Most likely had a air leak, that was the first cause of your issues. Better get set up for pressure and vacuum testing. Make sure you didn't blow a crank seal or whatnot.update, saw wouldnt idle, ran ok wide open, pulled it apart again, and honed the cylinder (Yes, your not supposed to)
now it wont hardly run, probably just gonna get a new cylinder and piston, or a new saw
I will see about getting set up for that, thanks SeanMost likely had a air leak, that was the first cause of your issues. Better get set up for pressure and vacuum testing. Make sure you didn't blow a crank seal or whatnot.
well, its what we haveone more time.... milling with. a 60cc saw is asking for trouble. Clamshell only worse trouble........got both?
I been looking around, thanks manOr find an affordable old boat anchor like a Stihl 050/051/075/076. They may feel a bit heavy and slow but get the job done...
You and I must be members of the SAME CHURCH..I swear you are preaching MY sermon...THIS 50:1 message reminds me of the story of the tower of Babel where all of us spoke the same language until an Angel looked through a hole in the sky and saw humans building a TOWER to Heaven..God asked, "How far have they Gotten?" Pretty far the Angel said. God asked, "is the labor force Mexicans?: The angle replied not that I can see,, just some white guys and a few blacks. God said, NO problem.. They will never make it. They'll be fighting and the project will end.. Bring me another beer and lets finish this Game of Chess. Nothing to worry about. Of course you probably heard the CBS and NBC news version..Ha. Ha Don't believe it..Ha. Ha..BUT OIL saves saw engines.. For Saws it's the real Savior..Praze de LARD.and give 10% to the oil companies..ha...haOK, Here is my opinion. Milling and cutting wood is similar, but a bit different. Milling is generally at full throttle for minutes at a time. This generates a lot of heat. Especially with modern saws, already set lean. Normal wood cutting is usually full throttle but not for extended lengths of times. As mentioned with milling the heat generated literally saturates the entire cylinder. The heat is your enemy. How do we get rid of the heat? Richen the mixture and add more lubrication. As mentioned with my 041, the saw was used with 30 weight oil for years at what ratio I have no idea but the dealer mentioned 16/20 -1.Yes this is a lot of oil buy todays standards. The 041 cylinder fins were caked with saw dust, but the saw showed no signs of any over heating issues. What I am trying to say is richen it up and run say 32/1. I would make a bet that your saw will thank you for this. In my personal opinion 50/1 is the very bare minimum. The EPA doesn't care about your equipment. In all my saws I run 32/1 Amsoil. Never had a overheating or oil related issue
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