Doesn't a normal person just by all 4? Even in multiples of some? All 4 are great, even better ported. My 400 is still stock with a straight shot and it has a 25" on it. I don't think it would be strong enough for a longer bar in some really dense oak or bodark.
Ms400 vs Ms461 vs Ms462 vs 500i?
- Thread starter Courage
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
But a ported 462 is stronger than a stock 462. Both of my ported 462s are noticably faster than my stock one in the same wood. Just depends what you want. I will say a ported 462 can be stronger than a stock 500. Just depends what you want. A 461 is a great saw and there is a reason it has a following. Just more vibes than the newer saws and no M-Tronic.
A similar 5-10 cord a year 70YO firewood guy (but almost all hardwoods).
A real CL FB scrounger I am. Decided to relax and chill sold the old 028WB and 440, got a 261C and a 462C, real happy I did.
Like you I was looking at 400 462 500 and when a legit one tree of use 462C showed up at a great price I grabbed it.
As I slow down the bought new 261 is going to see the most use. But when the trunk is above ~14-16" the bigger saw goes to work. That usually wears a 25" but use a 28" also. So far my only gripe with the 261C is it seems more likely to plug up in the sprocket cover than the 028.
Don't be afraid to kneel while sawing on the ground to ease back issues. Zero issues so far with the motronic.
Since you are shopping used you'll just have to stay flexible, any of the 400 462 500I will work if you see the right deal.
A real CL FB scrounger I am. Decided to relax and chill sold the old 028WB and 440, got a 261C and a 462C, real happy I did.
Like you I was looking at 400 462 500 and when a legit one tree of use 462C showed up at a great price I grabbed it.
As I slow down the bought new 261 is going to see the most use. But when the trunk is above ~14-16" the bigger saw goes to work. That usually wears a 25" but use a 28" also. So far my only gripe with the 261C is it seems more likely to plug up in the sprocket cover than the 028.
Don't be afraid to kneel while sawing on the ground to ease back issues. Zero issues so far with the motronic.
Since you are shopping used you'll just have to stay flexible, any of the 400 462 500I will work if you see the right deal.
- Joined
- Mar 18, 2023
- Messages
- 428
- Reaction score
- 565
That took some grit to sell that 028 and 440 I wouldn't be able to ever sell my 028 or 038.
In 20 years, a 461 will still be able to be serviced. In 20 years you better hope you find a dealer with 20 year old legacy software to program a new carb...
20 years comes at you fast...
20 years comes at you fast...
Todd727
ArboristSite Lurker
Lot of talk about powerhead and bar length, but no mention of chain. I'm running a 400 (bought when they first came out) with a 28" bar, but with the 33RMF chain and it runs great through oak. For reference, I have a 661 for comparison. I am not disappointed in the 400 and the weight is nice.
Also the 461 shares some parts with the 046/460 so that can be advantageous in servicing/ repair. Truthfully you can't go wrong with any of the 4. And once you get bitten by the bug, you won't stop there.
What won't be able to be serviced on an m-tronic saw as opposed to a standard carb saw in 20 years ? It's a solenoid and a few wires.
You think stihl is gonna have an abundance of parts for a 461 in 20 years ?
Most people buy chainsaws to use them until they are no longer useful, if I get 5 years out of a chainsaw it paid for itself 1000x over. And for a 5 cord a year user it's gonna last you a lifetime. If you're that paranoid buy a 30 dollar solenoid and a 20 dollar wiring harness and keep it on hand for when your saw fails in 40 years from it's occasional use.
That's not the hard part.
Not shopping, buying chainsaw deals from the classifieds
cuz II have my "Lifetime saws" is the HARD part.I still buy/sell motorcycles. ;^) Whew.
- Joined
- Mar 18, 2023
- Messages
- 428
- Reaction score
- 565
I still got newer saws, Stihls are known as lifetime saws by some people I guess I am scared to sell them, I might die the next day hahaha, One year short of 70. I still ride mc's
I sold my 261 after I got a 400 because they were so close in size/weight that I never used it! The 400 Is plenty big enough for 99% of my needs with a 25" bar but if you're keeping the 261 I'd get something bigger to put some clear daylight between. Personally a 462 as a 500 is overkill for firewood. A 462 is probably overkill but just a bit less
!
Whichever you get it'll be a cracking saw!!
!Whichever you get it'll be a cracking saw!!
- Joined
- Mar 18, 2023
- Messages
- 428
- Reaction score
- 565
I got a new non mtronic 362, it was pretty gutless till I De EPAed before it was even broke in. I really don't give a crap about the warranty, it would barely pull the 25" it came with, it does now. I cut a lot of big ash with it quick now.I sold my 261 after I got a 400 because they were so close in size/weight that I never used it! The 400 Is plenty big enough for 99% of my needs with a 25" bar but if you're keeping the 261 I'd get something bigger to put some clear daylight between. Personally a 462 as a 500 is overkill for firewood. A 462 is probably overkill but just a bit less
Whichever you get it'll be a cracking saw!!
I'm with @SAWMIKAZE on the m-tronic. It just works. I've owned some version of auto tune and m-tronic saws since 2012. Service saws and other equipment for local loggers and a few tree companies as a side hustle. I've very seldonly seen issues with m-tronic that wasn't a busted wire or a seliniod issue. Gotta remember it's still 90% a normal carb.
I'd personally go with the 462. It will work for your needs just fine. Will handle a 28" bar pretty well. I have a 400, great saw and I use it a lot, but it won't be happy with a 28" bar for my uses. That's a well running 70cc+ and preferably something 90cc+ in wood around here.
I'd personally go with the 462. It will work for your needs just fine. Will handle a 28" bar pretty well. I have a 400, great saw and I use it a lot, but it won't be happy with a 28" bar for my uses. That's a well running 70cc+ and preferably something 90cc+ in wood around here.
- Joined
- Mar 18, 2023
- Messages
- 428
- Reaction score
- 565
I would probably get one if I was still working for the mills, it would be great to not have to tune when I do the altitude change 3800 to around 8500 to 9000. I don't and can't bust ass working anymore so tuning them for elevation is no biggy now. MS290 20" MS362 25"and a MS460 28" (not often)to the mountains to buck, all the others stay home.
It's true..
My first 462 made it almost 5 years until the piston cracked..the newer ones addressed that issue, and those were 5 HARD years..not like any 440 or 372 didn't have issues after 5 years of hard commercial use.
In 20 years a 461 is gonna be over 30 years old..I'm sure there's gonna be a ton of parts available at stihl...
Auto saws did a few good things for the companies and the user, and those few good things are obvious.
Personally, for the limited use you're going to have, I'd use which ever one I could find for the lowest price. With the limited use you have, you won't notice enough of a difference between a 461 and a 462 to actually tell them apart. If you do notice a difference, it likely has more to do with how the saws are tuned than the actual capability of the saw itself.
To me, the 400 replaces the MS360 family of saws. At only 1/2 lb more weight, they produce considerably more power and make a great middle saw for a 3 saw plan. You can run a longer bar on them occasionally, but similar to the 360 family, they aren't quite big enough to be a big saw in most 2 or 3 saw plans. If you want to run a 28" bar occasionally, but plan on normally running a 20"-25" bar, I think the 400 would be a great fit. It would make a great work horse for most of your bucking needs. If you're looking for something that will pull a 28" bar on a regular basis, or you think you might need something longer on occasion, my opinion is that you're into the 460 family of saws. If you're needing to run a premium bar oil to support the bar length, then you're bar is too long for your primary firewood saw. Even if you're normally running a 24" bar, there are things you can do with your chain that will let you take advantage of the additional HP available compared to the 400.
As far as standard carbs vs Mtronic, I'm firmly in the standard carb category, but I don't actually think there's any reason not to buy an mtronic. They've been on the market long enough now that they are proven. The reason I don't use or want them is simply because I want to be the one who decides how my tools operate. I've spent the majority of the last 3 decades working on automated equipment in hot, humid environments, and I've seen what the heat does to electronics over the course of decades. Mechanical wear, stiff or cracked rubber, corrosion, these are things I can see and trouble shoot. A faulty chip on a circuit board, however, can be a nightmare to diagnose. In a saw, however, the answer is normally to simply replace the entire component. So long as that component is reasonably priced, I'm fine with it. Every Stihl dealer I've ever stepped foot into was WAY more interested in selling me a new saw than they were in keeping an older saw running. If they tell me I need a new saw because I've been running the same $5 sparkplug for 6 years, I don't trust the to tell me I need a $20 solenoid instead of a $1500 saw. Basically, I'm of the mind set that I want to know enough about my tools and equipment to be able to efficiently maintain, operate, troubleshoot, and service them. I think a person could do that with Mtronic saws just as easily as they could with a standard carb, but I'm also pretty stubborn so there is that....
To me, the 400 replaces the MS360 family of saws. At only 1/2 lb more weight, they produce considerably more power and make a great middle saw for a 3 saw plan. You can run a longer bar on them occasionally, but similar to the 360 family, they aren't quite big enough to be a big saw in most 2 or 3 saw plans. If you want to run a 28" bar occasionally, but plan on normally running a 20"-25" bar, I think the 400 would be a great fit. It would make a great work horse for most of your bucking needs. If you're looking for something that will pull a 28" bar on a regular basis, or you think you might need something longer on occasion, my opinion is that you're into the 460 family of saws. If you're needing to run a premium bar oil to support the bar length, then you're bar is too long for your primary firewood saw. Even if you're normally running a 24" bar, there are things you can do with your chain that will let you take advantage of the additional HP available compared to the 400.
As far as standard carbs vs Mtronic, I'm firmly in the standard carb category, but I don't actually think there's any reason not to buy an mtronic. They've been on the market long enough now that they are proven. The reason I don't use or want them is simply because I want to be the one who decides how my tools operate. I've spent the majority of the last 3 decades working on automated equipment in hot, humid environments, and I've seen what the heat does to electronics over the course of decades. Mechanical wear, stiff or cracked rubber, corrosion, these are things I can see and trouble shoot. A faulty chip on a circuit board, however, can be a nightmare to diagnose. In a saw, however, the answer is normally to simply replace the entire component. So long as that component is reasonably priced, I'm fine with it. Every Stihl dealer I've ever stepped foot into was WAY more interested in selling me a new saw than they were in keeping an older saw running. If they tell me I need a new saw because I've been running the same $5 sparkplug for 6 years, I don't trust the to tell me I need a $20 solenoid instead of a $1500 saw. Basically, I'm of the mind set that I want to know enough about my tools and equipment to be able to efficiently maintain, operate, troubleshoot, and service them. I think a person could do that with Mtronic saws just as easily as they could with a standard carb, but I'm also pretty stubborn so there is that....
- Joined
- Mar 18, 2023
- Messages
- 428
- Reaction score
- 565
After being stranded a few times, + or - miles from nowhere in my G M., Ford and Dodge truck (varieties I've owned over the years) because of electric anythings you wanna call them. Every work truck I have whenever possible has been changed over to old school functioning systems. I know how to work on all the new systems and have all the code readers and test equipment so I will stop negative comment before they start about not knowing how to work on them. All the old GM's, Ford's and Dodges can be repaired easily as long as you keep the simple parts in your glovebox that will leave you walking. The best are the old diesel engines that only needs a starter. Unless it's a catastrophic mechanical failure you won't be walking except to the back of your truck to get tools. I know a lot of the new saws will go into a "safe mode"or "default" and still run. Name of the game is getting your job finished not throwing your saw in the truck and calling it a day because your saw stopped. Oh, well, actually a lot of years doing wood harvest and very few days lost because of equipment failure, vehicle or saw. I know, just my fact based opinion. Even if I did buy a new one now it would not pay for it self.
