MS460 High Output Oiler Upgrade

[JonCraig]

All went back together nicely. I found that pushing the new control bolt back in was easiest using a bench vise gently. Also, make sure that you have the cutout of the control bolt lined up so that it will clear the turn stop in the oil pump housing. Bushing also went back in very easily with bench vise.

Oil output was noticeably higher. I'm off to buy another control bolt for my 046 project now!

 

[blsnelling]

I'm off to buy another control bolt for my 046 project now!

It's not just the control bolt. The piston is different as well.

 

[JonCraig]

The OP found no difference between the old & new pistons. Maybe he was given the wrong part?

 

[blsnelling]

He did and clarified it later. They are definitely different.

 

[JonCraig]

You're right. I was misreading the follow up posts. Thought they were talking about the differences between the control bolt. But the other replies are talking about the ramp angle on the piston. Whoopsie!

 

[JonCraig]

You think a fella could file a steeper ramp onto that pump piston?

 

[drf255]

Question,

It appears that the HO piston has more gear teeth on it than the standard version. Is that an illusion, or are there more teeth which would cause the pump to turn more rpm?

 

[drf255]

You think a fella could file a steeper ramp onto that pump piston?

Was thinking the same, but would have to be machined perfectly. Doesn't the piston ride on it?

Would take a skilled machinist with a good mill to do it I guess?

 

[mdavlee]

Done it with a cutting wheel for a dremel...

 

[JonCraig]

How much needs to be taken off the shorter side?

 

[mdavlee]

Only .010"

 

[JonCraig]

Oh I bet I can try that. Succeeding is another matter, but I'm sure I can try! ;-)

 

[Aggie 2012]

When y'all say shorter side I'm assuming the side closest to the center of this counter bolt?

I can see where the peg is off center from the middle but I'm basically trimming more of this or are you actually angling this peg?

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[JonCraig]

That's the control rod. I believe someone else has ground on that a bit to make it more eccentric, but I'm not sure.

What I was talking about was the piston; the thing with the teeth that the worm gear drives. I ground about .01 off mine with a dremel today and it seems to feel fine and allow more travel.

Not much sense grinding on the control bolt; they're $14 for OEM on eBay. The pump piston, however, is more expensive.

Once I get this 046 up and running, I'll let you know how the oil output is. (I can say it is higher than stock with just the control bolt swapped.)

 

[Aggie 2012]

ahah! Thanks for the clarification Jon.

I need to pull the piston out I guess and see if I can't forgive this out.
Just bought a 32" light ES bar but have the stock oiler


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[Aggie 2012]

I mean standard oiler


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[Raganr]

Been a while since I logged in. Glad to see the pictures are still working and others doing this mod.

I have tried to mod the parts for an MS 261 since high output parts are not available. I dont think I went far enough/did it correctly. Mdavlee, if you have a picture, can you post exactly where you grind on the pump piston (part with gear teeth). I understand how to mod the control bolt by grinding more of the nipple to make it favor one side more.

 

[quattro90]

I know this thread is old, but it has some very useful information. That being said, even after reading the thread and looking at the photos from the OP I still wasn't able to visually identify the difference between the HD oil pump and control bolt. I took some additional up close macro photos that will hopefully help shed light on the differences. It appears that both on the control bolt and the oil piston pump there are "annular" grooves/lines as referenced in the service manual excerpt I have included in the pictures, which wasn't 100% clear from the OP photo. Also, according to my "cheapo" calipers there is approximately .01" difference in the cam lobe, on the control bolt, as well as .01" difference in the depth of the upper cam on the HD oiler piston pump. This is in addition to all the other contributors to this thread who have discussed the other physical differences. Hope this helps future users with upgrades and visual identification of the HD vs regular pumps. For reference: All photos of mine show HD on L and Regular on R.

OP PHOTO OF REGULAR VS HD

 

[JonCraig]

Nice!

 

[ericm979]

Thanks to all the contributors to this thread: I did the parts swap today so I can run a 32" bar. There's two reliefs around the brass plug. I chucked the pump in a vice with soft jaws and used a hammer and a tiny screwdriver in those reliefs to drive the plug out. Be careful to not tighten the vice too much and crack the pump body.