MS661 vs 390XP

[nk14zp]

I personally only use the dogs for felling ,or parking the saw in a log ,when bucking if the chain is so dull i have to do that ,another one gets swapped on ,i do not like to overheat stuff like bar rails ,clutches etc from undo load when no need for it .

Also it's hard on motor mounts when you lean on them. And you are right there is no need for cutting with a dull chain.

 

[Tree Sling'r]

It would be interesting for many of you fellas to run a real good chain. There would be no pushing or leaning. Testing or not. A good chain will show the saws true power. Many of you are proud and put forth lots of effort, therefore your chain is tits, but... a real good chain is the true mod.

 

[wigglesworth]

It would be interesting for many of you fellas to run a real good chain. There would be no pushing or leaning. Testing or not. A good chain will show the saws true power. Many of you are proud and put forth lots of effort, therefore your chain is tits, but... a real good chain is the true mod.

Yup.

 

[KG441c]

It would be interesting for many of you fellas to run a real good chain. There would be no pushing or leaning. Testing or not. A good chain will show the saws true power. Many of you are proud and put forth lots of effort, therefore your chain is tits, but... a real good chain is the true mod.

Id like to see a good in depth tutorial on round filing

 

[Tree Sling'r]

Id like to see a good in depth tutorial on round filing

I learned on a busy landing. An older fella gave me a quick tutorial, I learned quick. I round file at work, never in a hurry, the results are very good. Rakers on a round chain need to be lower than those on a square ground/filed chain.
Don't use the same raker numbers, there's a big difference.
Many guys on here are dang good, but remember the rakers are equally as important.
I grind close to 50 chains per week, gutting and rakers included. It makes a bad saw look good .
Anyway, back to saw model and brand brawling. Lol

 

[KG441c]

Round file tutorial sounds better!!! Lol!!

 

[KG441c]

I learned on a busy landing. An older fella gave me a quick tutorial, I learned quick. I round file at work, never in a hurry, the results are very good. Rakers on a round chain need to be lower than those on a square ground/filed chain.
Don't use the same raker numbers, there's a big difference.
Many guys on here are dang good, but remember the rakers are equally as important.
I grind close to 50 chains per week, gutting and rakers included. It makes a bad saw look good .
Anyway, back to saw model and brand brawling. Lol

Raker height for hardwood on 3/8 and 404 on ported 70cc and up? Angle? Drop angle?

 

[Tree Sling'r]

Raker height for hardwood on 3/8 and 404 on ported 70cc and up? Angle? Drop angle?

You need to experiment on depth, but for sure angle you're rakers. Madsen's website has some good graphics. I don't do numbers, not even on the saws I port.

 

[KG441c]

You need to experiment on depth, but for sure angle you're rakers. Madsen's website has some good graphics. I don't do numbers, not even on the saws I port.

Ive been experimenting lately with cleaning the gullet out to the tie strap and 30° on top with a 10° drop and raker at about .025? Pretty aggressive with the gullets cleaned out

 

[Tree Sling'r]

Ive been experimenting lately with cleaning the gullet out to the tie srap and 30° on top with a 10° drop and raker at about .025? Pretty aggressive with the gullets cleaned out

I know I said I'm not a numbers guy, but my settings on my square grinder's are around *43 top plate and *88 side cutter. Aggressive, yet smooth. Hard or soft wood, rakers are the key.
But, I don't mess with old petrified hard wood either. The top plate angle would decrease if I did, followed by raker experimenting.

 

[KG441c]

Most my cutting is white, red, willow, postoak, hickory, cedar, cypress, loblolly

 

[KG441c]

I know I said I'm not a numbers guy, but my settings on my square grinder's are around *43 top plate and *88 side cutter. Aggressive, yet smooth. Hard or soft wood, rakers are the key.
But, I don't mess with old petrified hard wood either. The top plate angle would decrease if I did, followed by raker experimenting.

Ive given up on square in the field. I do ok on my bench with light and glasses but in the field all I see is shadows

 

[cgraham1]

It would be interesting for many of you fellas to run a real good chain. There would be no pushing or leaning. Testing or not. A good chain will show the saws true power. Many of you are proud and put forth lots of effort, therefore your chain is tits, but... a real good chain is the true mod.

 

[treesmith]

Hmmm, we run a few saws, each crew sharpens their own and they've been doing it long enough to know what they're doing and they get them sharp, maybe not as sharp as a race chain but as sharp as a good work chain cutting all manner of aussie tree species needs to be. I can't remember seeing anyone cut without dogging in and giving it a bit. I'm not talking about forcing a dull chain but a good sharp chain being pushed a little in the cut. we don't seem to go through AV mounts or wear bars out that often. The worst for worn av are 201ts

I've had a good play with depth gauge settings here and there on my saws, softwood setting sometimes works pretty well in the "softer" stuff on a 90cc with 25" but it's grabby and not as safe, in some woods it just doesn't work at all. I think I'd rather change AV and bars a bit more often than have to change chain all the time

 

[treesmith]

Think I'll do some experimenting with gullets now though

I'm here to learn and my ears are always open

 

[rogue60]

Hmmm, we run a few saws, each crew sharpens their own and they've been doing it long enough to know what they're doing and they get them sharp, maybe not as sharp as a race chain but as sharp as a good work chain cutting all manner of aussie tree species needs to be. I can't remember seeing anyone cut without dogging in and giving it a bit. I'm not talking about forcing a dull chain but a good sharp chain being pushed a little in the cut. we don't seem to go through AV mounts or wear bars out that often. The worst for worn av are 201ts

I've had a good play with depth gauge settings here and there on my saws, softwood setting sometimes works pretty well in the "softer" stuff on a 90cc with 25" but it's grabby and not as safe, in some woods it just doesn't work at all. I think I'd rather change AV and bars a bit more often than have to change chain all the time

It's not like we have a choice to use the dogs or not, well apart from limbing and such..
As soon as the chain hits our hardwoods it bites in and pulls the powerhead hard into the wood..
I'd give any man a chocolate freddo frog if they could hold a 660 off the dogs in something like a 20 inch Steel Box for like half a tank of fuel bucking ha! they would be spent done for the day! haha and have bugger all cut without the use of the dogs! well lots of peak revving and smoke coming of the bar and chain is about all that would be going on lol...
And pulled clean off their feet if they tried it with an 090! ...All IMHO of course.

 

[Hedgerow]

It would be interesting for many of you fellas to run a real good chain. There would be no pushing or leaning. Testing or not. A good chain will show the saws true power. Many of you are proud and put forth lots of effort, therefore your chain is tits, but... a real good chain is the true mod.

Mmmm...
Chains...

 

[nk14zp]

It would be interesting for many of you fellas to run a real good chain. There would be no pushing or leaning. Testing or not. A good chain will show the saws true power. Many of you are proud and put forth lots of effort, therefore your chain is tits, but... a real good chain is the true mod.

And the chain can be should be filed to match the saws characteristics.

 

[Moparmyway]

Mmmm...
Chains...

Congrats on taking the purses Champ !!

 

[Trx250r180]

Mmmm...
Chains...

Witch ......