Redbull
ArboristSite Guru
Any preferences on types of mulch for use around trees?
Mulch preference
- Thread starter Redbull
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Dan F
ArboristSite Operative
Anything but the red crap!
And NO fabric under organic mulches!!!
Dan
And NO fabric under organic mulches!!!
Dan
Redbull
ArboristSite Guru
I don't do fabric even in landscape installs unless it's an unorganic mulch.
Dan F
ArboristSite Operative
It's all TOO common! That's why I stated what should be the obvious. :wink:
Dan
Dan
Kate Butler
ArboristSite Guru
mulch prefs
What he said! Mulch is supposed top look like soil, NOT pickled sausages.
Dan F said:
What he said! Mulch is supposed top look like soil, NOT pickled sausages.
Dan F
ArboristSite Operative
How do you get pickled sausages from fabric under mulch? Not sure I've seen what you are referring to....
Husky288XP
ArboristSite Guru
I use single shredded natural mulch because its holds the moisture better than double shredded. But, any mulch is better than no mulch.
What plants are you mulching? for acid-lovers I use pine bark, most others shredded hardwood.
Under pines, use pine, under oaks, use oak chips...you get the idea.
husky, I thought that the more it was shredded, the finer and more moisture-retentive mulch is.
Under pines, use pine, under oaks, use oak chips...you get the idea.
husky, I thought that the more it was shredded, the finer and more moisture-retentive mulch is.
Redbull
ArboristSite Guru
This is going around an approx. 20"-24" DBH SweetGum. Roots are exposed all the way out to the dripline which has a total diameter of 30'. The roots are being damaged by the lawn guy and I convinced her to mulch to the drip line. My understanding is 2-3" is the recomended depth. Is it necessary to go all the way to the dripline? An yes I know, NO MULCH VOLCANOS!
Dan F
ArboristSite Operative
There is a "rule" of thirds.
For the best appearance, you want to mulch either 1/3, 2/3 or 3/3 of the dripline. So if you have a 30' dripline, you should have a mulch ring diameter of 10', 20' or 30'.
It's really up to you/the client as to what you want, but if roots are exposed all the way out, the turf probably isn't doing well. I'd mulch the entire dripline in that case. I'd kill off the remaining turf with a small application of glyphosate (Round-up or similiar) and spread the mulch a week or two later without trying to remove the dead grass. Waiting a while after application allows you to see exactly where you sprayed. I would try to cut an edge before mulching; that will help to hold the mulch in and keep the grass out.
HTH. Any more ????'s, ask away.
Dan
For the best appearance, you want to mulch either 1/3, 2/3 or 3/3 of the dripline. So if you have a 30' dripline, you should have a mulch ring diameter of 10', 20' or 30'.
It's really up to you/the client as to what you want, but if roots are exposed all the way out, the turf probably isn't doing well. I'd mulch the entire dripline in that case. I'd kill off the remaining turf with a small application of glyphosate (Round-up or similiar) and spread the mulch a week or two later without trying to remove the dead grass. Waiting a while after application allows you to see exactly where you sprayed. I would try to cut an edge before mulching; that will help to hold the mulch in and keep the grass out.
HTH. Any more ????'s, ask away.
Dan
Redbull
ArboristSite Guru
Is round up such a good idea around the base of the tree? It's really not necessary anyway since the grass is not growing under the tree. I did plan to cut an edge for the mulch, I don't like to use edging if at all possible. Thanks for the replies, I just wanted to make sure I was doing the right thing for the tree and cust.
Kneejerk Bombas
ArboristSite King
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I like to spread some compost first, then add chips. Keep the chips away from the trunk and don't exceed 2 or 3 inches depth.
Be careful not to cut roots when making an edge. It's best to do this by hand.
If you really want to help the tree out, you might want to first bring the grade down to meet the root flare, since it's probably planted too deep.
Be careful not to cut roots when making an edge. It's best to do this by hand.
If you really want to help the tree out, you might want to first bring the grade down to meet the root flare, since it's probably planted too deep.
Kneejerk Bombas
ArboristSite King
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Dan F said:
I'd say 1/3 or 2/3 is not really enough, 3/3 is just short of most arborist minimum goal of just past the drip line.
Many open grown trees have a concentration of roots at or just past the dripline. The roots tend to grow outward until they hit the hot dry soil just past the shade. There is also an area there where there is slightly more soil moisture because of rain water shedding from the crown.
The one third rule sounds like a silly landscapers design thing, that has nothing to do with tree health. In reality, the design shouldn't be round circles of mulch, which not only look unnatural, don't complement having other trees or shrubs planted nearby. A good mulch bed should look natural and can be used to combine separate planting beds using gently curving lines, instead of a bunch of circles.
Redbull
ArboristSite Guru
The tree was not planted too deep, so grade is not an issue. There has been some erosion over the years which probably helped to expose some of the roots. Unfortunately I don't have pictures and this is a customer that lives about 40min. away. She's a good customer so it's worth the travel time, but not for a picture. Sorry.I would like to be able to add compost first but cost is an issue. I gave her a bid of $285 for 6.75cu yards of mulch delivered and installed and she was a bit surprised by that but willing to cough up the dough. That's enough mulch to cover 2-3" deep all the way out to the dripline. Sound good?
Dan F
ArboristSite Operative
You actually sound a little cheap to me on the price, unless you are getting your mulch at a wholesale (~$16/yd) price.... But if you can make money on it, go for it.
Mike, as for a "silly landscaper's design thing", I'm not going to debate that with you, of all people. For a single tree out in the yard, the 'thirds' rule will work. Now if you have several trees close together, it's a different ballgame....
Mike, as for a "silly landscaper's design thing", I'm not going to debate that with you, of all people.
For a single tree out in the yard, the 'thirds' rule will work. Now if you have several trees close together, it's a different ballgame....Redbull, sounds like you are doing a really good thing. The compost may be worth the money in some yards, but not this one. I agree with Mike on the 1/3 rule being strictly a design issue, but that is part of arboriculture.
As long as the mower stops whacking the roots the tree is much better off for your efforts.
As long as the mower stops whacking the roots the tree is much better off for your efforts.
Redbull
ArboristSite Guru
I'm only paying $107 for 6.75yds and I have my own dump truck so I'm making some on delivery as well. I'm not making much on the installation but this is a good, repeat customer of mine who I like to take care of. She's one of the few who listen and heed my advice about her trees. Not too many people are willing to fill a 1/3 of their yard with mulch, just to benefit the tree, but she knows it would be for the better.
Kate Butler
ArboristSite Guru
mulches
Red mulch is the COLOR of pickled sausage: it clashes with other plantings and stains hands and clothes of those working it.
Dan F said:
Red mulch is the COLOR of pickled sausage: it clashes with other plantings and stains hands and clothes of those working it.
BostonBull
Addicted to ArboristSite
I always thought Cedar was the best bnecause of its moisture retention abilities.
