MX2T Mix ratio?
- Thread starter arborman
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
Well, it is a better mix than Husky, so I reckon 50-1 would be OK. But I've never mixed at 50-1, used to do 40 to 45-1, and now mix at about 35-1, based on what many saw builders and racers recommend. I'm using MX2T also, and love it.
having a strong mix like that never causes any problems or fouling plugs or anything? i always just mixed at 50 to 1 becuase its what the manufacturers recomend. geuss i never thought of mixin er a little thicker. but it never hurts to try something new.
Thanks for the quick reply RB
Thanks for the quick reply RB
Lawn Masters
Addicted to ArboristSite
From what I've seen with running MX2T oil, the 32:1 or even 40:1 ratios cant hurt todays saws, instead it leaves a thin oily film on the piston skirt, which I guess means theres plenty of lubrication in there. I know about the oil film because I tore a saw apart after running about a gallon of MX2T gas oil mix through it to see how it performs in terms of wear.
I love MX2T oil. no more storebrand cheapo oil for this guy.
I love MX2T oil. no more storebrand cheapo oil for this guy.
Marky Mark
Hell's Kitchen Trapper
It's amazing how fools rush in when someone says a product is good even after they didn't have any problem with the product they were previously using. Stick with the Dino Oils the synethics make a mess of your saw and sticks to everything.
But don't listen to me just try a whole day cutting with a synthetic mix and see how gooey and sticky the whole mess really is.
Mark
But don't listen to me just try a whole day cutting with a synthetic mix and see how gooey and sticky the whole mess really is.
Mark
Crofter
Addicted to ArboristSite
Marky, I think you and Addict should start a lubrication analysis consultancy. Such an ability to so instantly, and positively reach conclusions would be of enormous value to manufacturers of both engines and lubrication products. The fact that the conclusions can be arrived at with such a low capital expenditure should guarantee financial success; don't hide your candle under a can--
Go for it!
Frank
Go for it!
Frank
I run Mobil One MX2T at 32:1 for all my saws and my Two Stroke motorcycles. The stuff burns really clean. No mess. No black goo out the pipes none of that. I have used it since it was introduced. My saws are run 8-12 hrs a week and my motorcycles is riden about 3 times a week(by me...so if things are going to GOO up it would). My kids motorcycles are ridden daily. So we have quite a lot of diverse experience to draw from. One thing I have noticed is the motorcycles run cooler. AND on the 125's there seems to be less wear on the piston/cylinder than the prior products I have used on the SAME bikes.
I have been riding & racing dirt bikes since 1970. Mostly 2 strokes. I have used everything from Caster Oil based stuff to Belray and now Mobil One. As far as chainsaws....I re-entering the arena. I earned my way through my racing years as a kid cutting pulpwood. Never really paid attention back then. During the Nineties I had an Excavation business and did clear cut for road building ... lots of saw time then...with the standard "dino" based oils.
Bottom line? Mobil One MX2T is as good as it gets. I think its the best bang per buck on the market. My only complaint is it doesn't have a dye so you have to be real careful managing the gas cans...
I have been riding & racing dirt bikes since 1970. Mostly 2 strokes. I have used everything from Caster Oil based stuff to Belray and now Mobil One. As far as chainsaws....I re-entering the arena. I earned my way through my racing years as a kid cutting pulpwood. Never really paid attention back then. During the Nineties I had an Excavation business and did clear cut for road building ... lots of saw time then...with the standard "dino" based oils.
Bottom line? Mobil One MX2T is as good as it gets. I think its the best bang per buck on the market. My only complaint is it doesn't have a dye so you have to be real careful managing the gas cans...
Last edited:
wiley_p
ArboristSite Guru
I,ve gone back to falling timber, and everyone still uses the Stihl or Husky mix on modded saws and the saws last about average, 700-800 hrs. Anyone got anything to add?
They are paying too much for a inferior product. Even if they did not realise any gain in ebgine langetivity they would still be ahead money wise by using mx2t.
As for ratio. Mx2t will wotk fine at any MFG's suggested ratio all the way down to 18:1 depending on the application.
Marky, if your getting unburnt oil out your exhaust(AKA spooge) than you are using the wrong oil or you have a tuning issue. Here are some pics of the muffler outlets of a ms 260g and a stihl br 420 bp blower. Notice they are bone dry.
How many two cycle motors have you tore down? I have done plenty and everyone, regardless of oil type/brand had a coating of oil on all internal parts. Thats how a total loss lube sytem works.
Marky Mark
Hell's Kitchen Trapper
Hi Ben, I see your point, but in the saws I have dismantled that used synthetics, I noticed a pronounced carbon buildup and a thick spoonge like residue that made it difficult to pull the piston from the jug, even though 40:1 was used and the saws had no issues with regards to air/fuel.
Could it be that these synthetics react differently with some pump gases to form this kind of varnish?
Also, when using Dino oils the saw runs much smoother I have noted, so I think synthetics should be reserved for larger displacement engines that have the power to overcome the drag that these type oils cause.
Marky Mark
Could it be that these synthetics react differently with some pump gases to form this kind of varnish?
Also, when using Dino oils the saw runs much smoother I have noted, so I think synthetics should be reserved for larger displacement engines that have the power to overcome the drag that these type oils cause.
Marky Mark
Lewis Brander
Addicted to ArboristSite
MX2T Oil:
Hi fellas. I've just started to use MX2T oils in all my 2 stroke equipment. I find that I have no problems with it. I run it in my saws, Toro roto- tiller and weedeaters. My old Ryan weedeater was bought in 1982 and has only seen dino oil untill recently. I've probably put 6 tanks of the synthectic mix through her. I do notice a black goo dripping from the exhaust or muffler and heaven forbid if you get it on your cloths. It will not wash out. Anyways I feel that the synthectic oil is disolving the carbon build up in the muffler. I've put syn. oil in an old saw that I had. Filled the cylinder at TDC and installed the plug and let her sit. I was amazed at how much stuff was flushed from that cylinder in that old saw. The carbon sofened up and I was able to flush out the cylinder with a little kerosene. I think that if you were to use the syn. oils, that over a period of time it would help remove most of the carbon build up that might be present in your equipmint, as with the old Ryan I have. JMO. I run a 32/1 mix in all my equipment. Yes, I had to readjust the carbs slightlly, but all the equipment seems to run better on it. I'm no expert, but from what I've seen of the stuff and how it works, I'm going to continue to use it. I also use Moble 1 in both my car and truck. No complaints there either. Ok, rambled on enough. All take care. Lewis.
Hi fellas. I've just started to use MX2T oils in all my 2 stroke equipment. I find that I have no problems with it. I run it in my saws, Toro roto- tiller and weedeaters. My old Ryan weedeater was bought in 1982 and has only seen dino oil untill recently. I've probably put 6 tanks of the synthectic mix through her. I do notice a black goo dripping from the exhaust or muffler and heaven forbid if you get it on your cloths. It will not wash out. Anyways I feel that the synthectic oil is disolving the carbon build up in the muffler. I've put syn. oil in an old saw that I had. Filled the cylinder at TDC and installed the plug and let her sit. I was amazed at how much stuff was flushed from that cylinder in that old saw. The carbon sofened up and I was able to flush out the cylinder with a little kerosene. I think that if you were to use the syn. oils, that over a period of time it would help remove most of the carbon build up that might be present in your equipmint, as with the old Ryan I have. JMO. I run a 32/1 mix in all my equipment. Yes, I had to readjust the carbs slightlly, but all the equipment seems to run better on it. I'm no expert, but from what I've seen of the stuff and how it works, I'm going to continue to use it. I also use Moble 1 in both my car and truck. No complaints there either. Ok, rambled on enough. All take care. Lewis.
A couple of more thoughts.
One place I see a real difference between mx2t and other two stroke oils is in in the frequency I have to clean the power valves in the motorcycles in my garage. I don't beleive saws have those things after their exaust ports. Most of my kids newer two stroke motorcycles do. They stay much cleaner with Mobil One than with the prior products I have used in the past...synthetics as I have stuck with synthetics for years. (I mix at 32:1..a compramize..my open class bikes run&wear best at 38:1 and the 125's at 32:1. 125's win and I tune the open bikes to like it)
We burn a LOT of two stroke mix around here between the saws and all the kids motorcycles. I always have a mechanical project in process. At this time I am completeing a ground up rebuild of my old Honda CR125, starting a complete restoration of an old KTM, in the middle of building my Homelite XL-12 (Which had some carbon residue from its long past. Its piston was scored years ago and I ran it until it got hard to start...now its getting a complete rebuild). I also spent many years racing& therefore repairing racing two strokes. (motorcycles) The synthetic's changed what was possible (allowing much more agressive tuning due to higher film strength and better tolerance of heat) and now are a world ahead of the "standard" two stroke oils. I wouldn't even consider running a non synthetic in ANY two stroke after almost thirty years of dealing with performance two strokes.
I had another interesting experience with Mobil One..I worked for an Italian motorcycle company as a consultant for a year or two. Did a lot of testing for Eastern conditions to define what "stock" carb jetting should be. I use Mobil One 15-50 in my fourstrokes and have for quite some time. My first fourstroke I purchased I started with Mobil One..and it puffed smoke for a bout 3-4months and finally quit. The first "test" mule came from that company for me to "setup" and I did my usual setup..dissassemble and grease any chassis pivot point...oil air filer with MY stuff, AND change engine oil to Mobil One. It too would puff a little blue once in a while as well and this concerned me....after a month of this I finally tore down the motor. Basically the motor looked as if it never had been run internally. The Italian Engineer coordinating these projects told me to NOT run synthetic for a couple of weeks on the NEXT test mule....as he wanted to accellerate how fast the rings seated and generally wanted to accelerate the wear so we were testing "real world" conditions. So from that point on I would run Castrol GTX for a week then switch over to Mobil One.
( You motorcycle guys need to follow the manufacturer's recommended break in proceedures! A lot of thought & testing has actually been done and motorcycles do react differently from brand to brand..trust me on that!) I wasn't the only one who went through that deal...I STILL have the first test bike and that first Four Stoke I had purchased. And they did finally break in and quit puffing blue smoke. Took almost 6 months. I did take a look internally on the "mule" this year and its amazing how little wear it has. (the only way you could tell its age is the valve seats, valve "shims" and rocker arm wear)
I live by imperical data.
One place I see a real difference between mx2t and other two stroke oils is in in the frequency I have to clean the power valves in the motorcycles in my garage. I don't beleive saws have those things after their exaust ports. Most of my kids newer two stroke motorcycles do. They stay much cleaner with Mobil One than with the prior products I have used in the past...synthetics as I have stuck with synthetics for years. (I mix at 32:1..a compramize..my open class bikes run&wear best at 38:1 and the 125's at 32:1. 125's win and I tune the open bikes to like it)
We burn a LOT of two stroke mix around here between the saws and all the kids motorcycles. I always have a mechanical project in process. At this time I am completeing a ground up rebuild of my old Honda CR125, starting a complete restoration of an old KTM, in the middle of building my Homelite XL-12 (Which had some carbon residue from its long past. Its piston was scored years ago and I ran it until it got hard to start...now its getting a complete rebuild). I also spent many years racing& therefore repairing racing two strokes. (motorcycles) The synthetic's changed what was possible (allowing much more agressive tuning due to higher film strength and better tolerance of heat) and now are a world ahead of the "standard" two stroke oils. I wouldn't even consider running a non synthetic in ANY two stroke after almost thirty years of dealing with performance two strokes.
I had another interesting experience with Mobil One..I worked for an Italian motorcycle company as a consultant for a year or two. Did a lot of testing for Eastern conditions to define what "stock" carb jetting should be. I use Mobil One 15-50 in my fourstrokes and have for quite some time. My first fourstroke I purchased I started with Mobil One..and it puffed smoke for a bout 3-4months and finally quit. The first "test" mule came from that company for me to "setup" and I did my usual setup..dissassemble and grease any chassis pivot point...oil air filer with MY stuff, AND change engine oil to Mobil One. It too would puff a little blue once in a while as well and this concerned me....after a month of this I finally tore down the motor. Basically the motor looked as if it never had been run internally. The Italian Engineer coordinating these projects told me to NOT run synthetic for a couple of weeks on the NEXT test mule....as he wanted to accellerate how fast the rings seated and generally wanted to accelerate the wear so we were testing "real world" conditions. So from that point on I would run Castrol GTX for a week then switch over to Mobil One.
( You motorcycle guys need to follow the manufacturer's recommended break in proceedures! A lot of thought & testing has actually been done and motorcycles do react differently from brand to brand..trust me on that!) I wasn't the only one who went through that deal...I STILL have the first test bike and that first Four Stoke I had purchased. And they did finally break in and quit puffing blue smoke. Took almost 6 months. I did take a look internally on the "mule" this year and its amazing how little wear it has. (the only way you could tell its age is the valve seats, valve "shims" and rocker arm wear)
I live by imperical data.
Last edited:
Mark, Which syn oil where you using?
WoodTick007
Addicted to ArboristSite
I use mx2t in all my air cooled 2-stroke power tools(chainsaws, blowers, trimmers, mowers,....) and the only potential problem that concerns me is the fact that it is colorless. To solve the color problem I mixed a small percentage of colored 2-stroke oil with the mx2t. But it is still sometimes diffacult to tell when poured.
This may sound Demented...... But I even like the smell of it better than other 2-stroke oils.
This may sound Demented...... But I even like the smell of it better than other 2-stroke oils.
Crofter
Addicted to ArboristSite
Mary Mark;
I have only been using synthetics for about a year and have only had a few occasions to have jugs off. I have had mufflers off quite a bit though and have not noticed the effects you mention. This is the first I have heard along this line and was so convinced you were just pulling our leg, that I replied with some foolishness.
I would like to hear more about this. The synthetics I have used are Shell and Belray.
Frank
You will not find a oil cleaner burning than mx2t. Be it mineral or synthetic.
Here are some pics of the muffler cover and exhaust outlets on two pieces I run mx2t in. Notice the dry, creamed coffe patena . Thats what an exhaust should look like when operated under normal conditions.
Here are some pics of the muffler cover and exhaust outlets on two pieces I run mx2t in. Notice the dry, creamed coffe patena . Thats what an exhaust should look like when operated under normal conditions.
Last edited:
muffler
blower
outlet
Similar threads
