My 038 Foolium Adventure

[buttercup]

So, I have started to put together some of my mountain of chinesium, taiwaluminum and even some germanium and canadium parts as well.

-It's a random crankcase from aliexpress, looks pretty similar to the Farmertec ones I had but definitely a different production and the nicest one I got.
-It have a crankshaft I got from downunder, my guess is it's a Raisman. However it's perfectly straight with absolutely no wobble at the end of the clutch axle in contrary to the 3 different ones I got from Farmertec.
-Cylinder kit is 52mm Hyway nicasil, it's kinda funny because it's differently ported than the Chineese ones. It's got lower ports and transfers which does not promise well for a high rpm and HP, but at the same time the ports and transfers are significantly wider and flatter. Flatter edges (top/bottom) could rise the question about if the piston rings could catch the edges of the ports more easily but it generally looks just more precise overall, the intake needed some cleaning up though.
-Clutch is Farmertec, the clutch springs are Stihl and the clutch cup is Oregon with a rim sprocket.
-The flywheel is Farmertec, the one I had that didn't have any bent fins...
-The guidebar studs are Stihl.

 

[buttercup]

The oil pump is a chapter of it's own...

The pictures show the Hyway on the left and the Farmertec on the right, at first glimpse they look quite identical.


On the back side (mount surface) they also seem quite similar but the Farmertec one actually looks better and more precise, the Hyway one also needed to be planed because the surface was really roughly and not evenly sanded with something like a belt sander with an extremely coarse grind size. It would definitely leak through the gasket surface as it was.


The left piston is Hyway, it's perfectly machined. The right piston is my modified Farmertec, it was absolutely totally useless as it was. You can see that the modified one is fixed (not adjustable) and have a steeper angle to make it pump more oil.


The drive gear also Hyway on the left and my modified Farmertec on the right. The modification is simply a rubber sheet glued on to the gear with super glue (cyanoacrylate) to prevent massive excessive oil spill in to the clutch compartment. The rubber has a tiny hole in the center to allow some oil from the pump to enter and grease the axle that holds the gear, it's a little too big for the purpose and when I modify the Hyway gear I will make the air/oil leak hole as small as possible.


The Hyway is generally more precise on the inside, the clearance between the drive gear and it's axle is also better. It wont empty the oil tank on a tank of gas like my modified one did but it will likely work close to OEM specs.

 

[buttercup]

I decided to do a full mod on the oil pump, I just don't see any point of having it adjustable as I just want it's max capable capacity.

Here is what I have used; an M4 (4mm) screw, a piece of brass tube that is 5mm outside and fits on the M4 screw, a couple of M5 washers, a M4 washer and a small bearing that is 4mm inside and 8mm outside.


I use the original O-ring as a seal on the screw head side. On the adjuster side I use a little gasket silicone, the M5 washer fits in to the O-ring groove so the bolt/screw self-centers when the nut is tightened.


The ball bearing has the same diameter as the original adjuster bolt and makes sure the oil pump is fixed at it's absolute max possible capability.

 

[Mad Professor]

Do those chinesium parts come with free corona virus?

The torx screws on the oil pump look kind of cheesy.

Besides the o-rings/seals leaking after lots of use, never had a problem with the oem oil pumps.

That is a novel way to modify the pump. Let us know how it holds up and/or if it leaks

 

[buttercup]

Well I'm movin' on and as always its good to have your minidrill nearby when working with these parts, some cleanup and adjustments is often necessary.


Done with the clutch compartment, I use high temp grease on all moving parts and 2-stroke motor oil in any machine parts to give it a gentle start in life.


The clutch compartment cover needed to be planed off to get it flush with the guide bar seat, I just used a hobby bench drill with an aluminum end mill by hand.


The cover also needed some adjustments around the edges and in some of the screw holes to fit properly, but eventually it's in place.


The guide bar seat cover plate also needed to be adjusted because of the clutch cover planing, not much left of it... whatever is necessary to make the guide bar seat flat and level is fine by me.


The guide bar seat cover plate needs to come off again to mount the AV and chain catcher but basically the clutch side is finished.

 

[buttercup]

Do those chinesium parts come with free corona virus?

The torx screws on the oil pump look kind of cheesy.

Besides the o-rings/seals leaking after lots of use, never had a problem with the oem oil pumps.

That is a novel way to modify the pump. Let us know how it holds up and/or if it leaks

Those parts was acquired long before the corona age
The torx screws is from a Farmertec kit, those are one of the few things that have not posed any problems.
Those o-ring seals was not on a static part that was tightened with a screw. 80 dollas + 50 for the freight for an oil pump? Is that what you're suggesting? No thanks, I'm quite satisfied with my modded one.
On my other modded oil pump I used JBweld to secure the M5 washer on the adjuster side and it worked really well, I'll let you know if I need to do that at some point but I'm not too worried about it.

 

[buttercup]

I have mounted the tank/rearhandle to the power head...


The carburetor was already mounted from last time I had my pile of parts together.


Nearly finished now...

 

[buttercup]

I have made a baffle to guide the exhaust forwards on the modded muffler.

I have used some brass plate to make the baffle.


I use silver solder and a propane torch to weld it together.


Some grinding to finish it and making it look nice.


It needs to look this way to get between the muffler and the crankcase, I have tried to preserve the flow as much as possible.

 

[buttercup]

The muffler is finished.

 

[buttercup]

And it's ready to go...

 

[buttercup]

I fired it up today and adjusted the carb in a trunk down the woods.

It started relatively easy and it runs nice and solid at idle, when I was happy with the cut I checked it with my tachometer and it was at about 12600 rpm. I tried leaning it a bit more than that and I really liked the way it cut, but it was screaming and I just wanted to be safe and since it's not run in I turned it a little back out. I have about 4 % oil in the fuel (1/25) and I will use that the first couple of tanks before I go down to 3%.

It definitely empty the gas tank quicker than the oil tank but it seems to oil plenty still, it's got a 20" guide bar.
There is no oil seeping out from the clutch compartment after use and it doesn't leave a puddle of oil on my bench so there is no sign of excessive oil spill or leak in the clutch compartment.

The sound is probably just as loud as any chainsaw at max rpm but it was not annoying at all and I think perhaps my muffler design takes the edge of the most painfully annoying frequencies. It's not opened up that much perhaps somewhere between 10 and 15% outlet area increase, the basic outlet area trough the dividing plate in the muffler is about 1" in diameter and the area of the 3 outlet tubes are together about the same.

I will be trying it out some this year and I will do some spruce milling with it too, next winter I might pull it apart and evaluate how its doing. I think it looks promising for now, I love this utterly solid and grunty design - looks good too.




I wish you all a happy firewood harvest season.

 

[big hank]

Sweet saw and interesting muffler design!

 

[grizz55chev]

The muffler is finished.
View attachment 802749 View attachment 802750
View attachment 802751

No spark screen, probably not needed in your area, but definitely needed in ours.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

No spark screen, probably not needed in your area, but definitely needed in ours.

What does the internal mesh screen do then?

 

[grizz55chev]

Guess I shoulda looked at the pics closer.

 

[buttercup]

Guess I shoulda looked at the pics closer.

Yea, that was one of the things I wanted compared to the standard aftermarket 038 muffler, along with the combination of increased flow and still better silenced.

Sweet saw and interesting muffler design!

Thanks, I have a few quality saws now but surprisingly I currently care the most for this collaboration of pirate parts. I guess it's because I have put some effort in to it.

 

[auskip07]

Great writeup, when did you purchase the kit? since you mention that it was before the corona age? My kit was purchased in Dec 2017 just trying to get an idea of what possible issues i will have to tackle vs your kit

 

[buttercup]

Great writeup, when did you purchase the kit? since you mention that it was before the corona age? My kit was purchased in Dec 2017 just trying to get an idea of what possible issues i will have to tackle vs your kit

Last year spring time I guess.

- The oil pump might be ok or not, you will find out obviously.
If you get massive amounts of oil in to the clutch compartment thats because of the hole in the center of the plastic gear going down to the axle in the oil pump.
You can cover that hole using a rubber gasket sheet cut to a suitable patch and glue it on with CA glue (super glue) after cleaning and perhaps some sanding to roughen the surface of the plastic gear as well as the rubber.
- You will know this by a lot of oil seeping out and make a puddle on your bench/shelf after use.
It has a purpose: to lube the gears and (perhaps most importantly) make sure they don't melt from the heat of the clutch.
However, I milled the beech wood on my avatar with one of these with the axle hole covered and completely without any intentional oil leak and it didn't melt. Also it was completely dry and oil free after use.
- If the oil tank is nearly full (like 80-90% full) after running a tank of gas then you should consider the oil pump is not working properly.

- The clutch springs will snap after a couple of hours, use OEM clutch springs to avoid this problem.
You will know this by that the chain will no longer stop at idle.

- The bar stud threads will give away if you tighten the nuts too much, use OEM bar studs and nuts to avoid this problem.

- The clutch compartment cover might be needed to be milled off if you want the guide bar to sit solidly to the mount surface, have a look at my post about that it's really simple to do.
You need a mill bit (I used a 6mm diameter aluminum mill bit) and a bench drill or similar that can set the mill bit/drill in a certain height position above a work surface, or use your imagination to get it done.
If you take too much off or it don't look nice it don't matter, just as long as the cover does not protrude outside the bar mount seat.

It's a grunty saw, once you have sorted out the child problems you will love it!

 

[Mad Professor]

Last year spring time I guess.

- The oil pump might be ok or not, you will find out obviously.
If you get massive amounts of oil in to the clutch compartment thats because of the hole in the center of the plastic gear going down to the axle in the oil pump.
You can cover that hole using a rubber gasket sheet cut to a suitable patch and glue it on with CA glue (super glue) after cleaning and perhaps some sanding to roughen the surface of the plastic gear as well as the rubber.
- You will know this by a lot of oil seeping out and make a puddle on your bench/shelf after use.
It has a purpose: to lube the gears and (perhaps most importantly) make sure they don't melt from the heat of the clutch.
However, I milled the beech wood on my avatar with one of these with the axle hole covered and completely without any intentional oil leak and it didn't melt. Also it was completely dry and oil free after use.
- If the oil tank is nearly full (like 80-90% full) after running a tank of gas then you should consider the oil pump is not working properly.

- The clutch springs will snap after a couple of hours, use OEM clutch springs to avoid this problem.
You will know this by that the chain will no longer stop at idle.

- The bar stud threads will give away if you tighten the nuts too much, use OEM bar studs and nuts to avoid this problem.

- The clutch compartment cover might be needed to be milled off if you want the guide bar to sit solidly to the mount surface, have a look at my post about that it's really simple to do.
You need a mill bit (I used a 6mm diameter aluminum mill bit) and a bench drill or similar that can set the mill bit/drill in a certain height position above a work surface, or use your imagination to get it done.
If you take too much off or it don't look nice it don't matter, just as long as the cover does not protrude outside the bar mount seat.

It's a grunty saw, once you have sorted out the child problems you will love it!

 

[Mad Professor]

So "bar studs threads will give way..."

WTF! Is it the studs/steel or the Chi-Com chinesium case?

I can't see even Chi-Com steel stripped studs, before the piss-poor case gave up threads./broke.........

Case, or studs?

I'm glad I've got LOTS of OEM parts saws...............