OK - I just checked out your cutters and rakers on the first photo.
That's because it's the photo where the cutters are closest to the middle of the photo which makes the angle measurements more accurate to determine from photos than when the cutters are too high or low in the shot.
My first comment is you don't have enough hook or top plate cutting angle. Have read of the CSM 101 sticky - post 106 for what that means
Compare your cutters with these ones (Mine [bottom) and Will Malloff's [TOP])
You can achieve a greater hook just by going to a slightly smaller file or (if you use a file guide) putting the same file you use in slightly larger file guide.
Now the raker angles.
I measured and calculated 3 rakers in photoshop.
This is the angle I mean by raker angle
The calculated on this cutter is 4.3º, I measure 2 others and got 4.1º and 4.65.
This about normal for a standard raker gauge
The nominal raker angle to start with is at least 6º
In pine with a big saw you might want to think about running 7º or more, you just have try it out and see what works.
Mntgun was running 9º on small pine logs with a 660 at altitude.
I run 6.5º with the 42" bar in hard hardwood with the 880, and 7.5º using Lopro with the 441, and 25" bar.
Higher angles mean the chain will be grabby and cause more vibe and B&C wear and tear but it will cut like a (as we say here) shower of $hi7!
If you haven't got an DAF (Digital angle finder) to measure the raker angle use a micrometer to measure gullet width to raker depth ratios.
A raker gap that is 1/10th of the gullet width gives about a 6º raker angle.
Now we'll get into the last few % of speed.
1) Notice how my gullets are fully cleaned out, this helps to clear sawdust and can be significant on a wide cut
2) Notice the steeper angle of my raker top, and also how Will's is not steep.
My rakers are wide so I put a steeper angle on them. If the rakers are narrow it's not as important.
Raker top angles (not the same as Raker Angle - see above) contribute to the extent of cutter bite.
It might not appear so but rakers actually slightly penetrate the wood allowing the cutter edge to tilt more and thus to penetrate more wood and take a bigger chip out.
It's the subtle combo of raker angle, hook, and raker top angle that makes a saw self feed although there won't be much self feeding in 50" wide cuts.
3) You have a lot of resin on the chain. I would run more aux oil. Pine resin is a mongrel (that's why I rarely cut pine) but consider having a pump pack of diesel on hand and squirt that on the chain. 3/4 bar oil and 1/4 diesel is another alternative.
After all that you probably think, he has really studied this in detail and that I'm some kind of anal retentive nerd but that's just my science training coming out.
Hope that helps.