My Disston DO-101 pics (I hope)

[Lewis Brander]

Old Fuel Meters:

Hi Scott. If you want send an email and your mailing address and I'll send a pair of upper homemade diaphragms to you. I still have the jigs I made to do the diaphragms on. What does your gasket under the side plate where the impeller drive is look like? Is it still good? Mine is still OK. I used the O rings on that impeller drive shaft. I put one inboard next to the brass bearing and 2 outboard on that shaft between the impeller and the old seal in the cover. If I dared to remove the seal in the cover to get a size, I think a seal from a carb kit for a throttle shaft might work in it's place. Don't know for sure. I'll get my stuff out and get the diaphragms made for after the new year weekend. Talk later. Lewis.

 

[Ranchero50]

Carb pics

Not much time to type tonight before bed. Played with it and turned it over with a drill motor and got spark right away. I was surprised how slowly the chain moved at 3000rpm crank speed. Spent the rest of the evening cleaning it up and putting it back together.

Lewis, I saw the manuals and will let the puter try to download them toniight (???? the dialup)

For colors, mine orange is just about the same as the Stihl orange and will be painted with Rustoleum Industial Enamal 'equipment orange' The silver I plan to leave alone (gives the saw a 'working' look)

here's a couple pics of the saw apart showing the carb details.

BTW, the ranchero50 is just a username that I use everywhere eBay included. My name is Jamie.

Thanks,

Jamie

 

[Lewis Brander]

Adapted Carburetor:

I was thinking at one time to do about the same thing to mine. I would imagine that it would work if a person could get the right throttle linkage made up to adapt with the throttle set up on the saw, but I managed to make the diaphragm for the old fuel meter instead. Had mine running a while back and it's great she still runs as well as she does. You will not probably need to use the old AC Delso fuel pump with that carb. It could probably be removed and the mounting hole covered. You'll have to adapt just one gas line from the tank to the carb you have and plug off the other tank fitting where the return line from the old fuel meter returned fuel back to the tank. Then all you should have to do is make up a fuel pick up and filter as used in a regulaar saw for inside the tank. Was just thinking that this has already been done if the saw has been running at all with the carb that's on it.

Did the PDF files download for you alright? Might have been faster to have brought them up on screen and just print them off instead of downloading them. OK, talk later. Lewis.

 

[Ranchero50]

Lewis, I managed to print them out at work today, thanks. Spent the evening trying to get it to fuel. Turns out the impulse fitting is stripped out at the intake. The other end was silver soldered to the impulse fitting going to the oil pump. I removed all that stuff and am going to reinvent the wheel a little differently.

Wish me luck.

Jamie

 

[Lewis Brander]

To McC:

Hi Scott: Sent you an email, but have those diaphragms almost done. Will mail out Saturday or Monday if all goes well. I'll send those "O" rings I used on the Impeller shaft if you need them. Just email me and let me know. Lewis.

 

[Lewis Brander]

To McC:

Hi Scott. I emailed you but the diaphragms are done and they and the O rings will be mailed out tomorrow. Hope they help in getting your saw back to running conditon. Did you get the rewind repaired? Send a picture to me, once you get the saw running. Hopefully she'll be running to demonstrate her at the Badger Steam and Gas show in Barraboo. Would love to see a movie clip of her running. Thanks. Lewis.

 

[McC]

I did repair the recoil this summer before the Baraboo show. I wanted to display it there, but couldn't stand looking at the starter cable hanging out. The cable pulley was split, good thing I bought 3 parts saws a couple years ago. Thanks for all the support Lewis. I'll have to get that 101 going sooner than planned now that I'll have the parts to do it.
Scott

 

[Lewis Brander]

To McC:

Hi Scott. If the mail man picks up the mail tomorrow around 1 to 2 PM, you should have them by Wed or Thrusday. Take care. Lewis.

 

[Mike Acres]

I will post the Owners Manual that Lewis scanned into Adobe, it will be in the section for Service Manual. I have the parts manual so I will scan it and get it in there so you can see what you are up against. The paint I use for Disston is the Allis Chalmers Orange found in most automotive stores.

 

[Lewis Brander]

Hi Mike:

Hi Mike: I can send you the Parts and owners manuels if you want. I have them both scanned to PDF files. It will save you scanning them. Just let me know. Lewis.

 

[Ranchero50]

Lewis, spent the last two days pulling and pulling and pulling and pulling. Not gas the the jug and not much spark. The thing didn't even kick on gas mix in the cylinders. How much spark does your saw throw out? The service manual that you sent says it'll jump a 1/4" gap when in good shape. Mine barely seems to fire the plug. In other news I took the 041 super out in the woods today and cut up about 4000lbs of dry firewood and loaded it on the trailer. Current plan is to remove the fan and check the electrical stuff out and redo the carb mounting.

Jamie

Jamie

 

[Lewis Brander]

Ranchero50:

Hello Rancheo50. My saw initially threw a bright blue spark while the plug was out of the saw at normal .025" gap. But would not fire at all doing the same thing as you did. I double checked the point gap, made sure the points were dresssed and cleaned, checked the condencer for leakaged and checked the coil for shorts to ground and continuity. The resistance reading across the coil secondary seemes low, so concluded that the secondary coil was shorted internally. Like I said she would throw a great spark at normal gaps but if you opened it to say .100" gap a very weak and intermittent spark. I finally ordered a coil from Grubb's at:< www.oldmercs.com > . The Part number for the coil to fit the Bendix Scintilla magneto is 399-125, price $41.75. The condencer is 399-123, price $4.00 and you'll need the high voltage insulating greas part # 92-41669-1, price $3.75 to put under the coil where the high tention lead attaches. There is no points listed that I could find. Check them out. After installing the coil she would throw a 1/2" spark. After fueling her up she started on the second pull. I have the timing gauge for my saw. The timing is set to 26 degrees BTDC. Which means that the laminations on my saw was turned almost fully counter clockwise. That might change depending on how worn the point rubbing block is, etc. But if the points are adjusted properly the timing should be close if you haven't disturbed the 3 mounting screws for the laminations. Check Grubb's Catalog out and see what you think. Look at the condencers to see if the ones listed are the right ones for the saw, etc. If I can be of any more help ?? let me know. Take care. Lewis.

 

[weimedog]

Try using 100LL Av gas. It doesn't have any of the alcohol additives and other stuff that attacks the old outboard & chain saw diaphrams. Any small GA airport will sell the stuff. Usually around $3 per gallon. I use it in my older outborads, motorcycles, AND now chain saw. Typically you loose a bit of power but run cooler with the stock timing on those loder two strokes. If you like to build motors you can bump the compression and advance the timing to more than gain what you loose in peak power. Benn using this for years. Have to remember aviation is yet another world...MANY of the planes serviced buy these airports are from the 50's and 60's. GA airport have to have a fuel to support those oldies...100LL is it.

 

[Lewis Brander]

100LL Avation Fuel:

Hi Weimedog. Haven't thought about the avation fuel that much. I've been trying to find a source for the Aspen fuel used in Sweden, Britian and Europe. It's an Alkylate fuel with additives added to use in 2 stroke engines called 2T fuel. 4 stroke fuel is 4T fuel. It's not suupposed to affect the rubber parts in fuel systems and is more enviromentally friendly. Have sent out emails to different Oil Companies to see if they offered such a fuel but no replies. They make it, form what I gather, but use it to blend with other fuels. I know that fuel for antique cars is sold around the country, but nothing like that in this area that I can find. I'll have to call the local airport and see what they offer. A friend of mine used to get 112 octain for his High compression truck engine he built. Was the only thing he could run in it, with no pinging. It had 13/1 compression ratio with about 320 lb's of compression. Couldn't use a push in type compression gauge to get any readings. Had to use the screw in type. Anyways, my wife's brother in law works for Conoco Fuel and he's checking into it. Electrolux and Husqvarna have investments and interest in the Aspen company from what I understand, but it's not imported into the states or canada. I'm told they're thinking about doing this, but don't know when. Hoping to hear shortly on what my brother in law has found on the subject. I'm not chemical engineer and don't pretend to know, but trying to get more information. Thanks for the tip. You take care. Lewis.

 

[Mange]

I think we are making some progress with this fuel business

http://w3.conocophillips.com/search/search.aspx?Query=Alkylate

http://www.phillips66.com/brands/marketing.htm

http://www.conocophillips.com/brands/brands.asp

 

[Lewis Brander]

Hi Mange.

Thanks for the links. I've done searches and viewed a few links from various sources. But haven't come up with what I'm looking for. I'll check these out further and see what I can find. Lewis.

 

[Ranchero50]

Lewis, tore the fanwheel off today and the coil is cracked like you suspected and not putting out much spark at all now. Going to pony up for the new coil and condensor. My secondary is about 7.5 Mohm. The points look great, the gap was down to a loose .016"

Thanks for the help.

Jamie

 

[Lewis Brander]

Coil Readings:

Hi Ranchero50. My primary side side of the coil, if I recall right, was around 400 ohms. The secondary side read about the same, which means to me it's internally shorted. Thoes old coils, after the outside material would crack, would allow moisture,etc in and the windings would corroed and short out. Can't remember for sure but believe the new coil read around 500 ohms on the primary and close to 5,000 ohms on the secondary. The new coil would throw a good 3/8" spark just by spinning the flywheel by hand. With the rewind it would throw a 1/2" spark, no problem. I find for these older saws to run you need a good hot spark, to fire the the 16/1 fuel ratios they used. Call Grubb's and if you have a credit card, pay over the phone and you'll get the parts in no time, seeing where you live in MD. Again good luck. Lewis.

 

[Ranchero50]

Parts on order... What momma don't know...

Funny thing is my primary side was only about 8ohms with the points open and 2ohms with them closed. Either my primary shorted or I have other wiring problems. I did remove the cut off switch to eliminate it.

Jamie

 

[Lewis Brander]

Testing coil:

Ranchero50: When testing a coil disconnect the wires from the points and ground wires to isolate the coil. Check, with an ohm meter from the point wire to the ground wire to get a reading. Then check from the point wire to the laminations, with the ground wire not touching the laminations. The same with the secondary side ot the coil using the spark plug wire. You'll get a reading across the primary, then get a reading across the secondary. there should be no reading from either wire to the laminations.

OK, if you use an older multimeter that has a 9 volt battery in it, you can check the condencer. Set it on the high Ohms scale and touch the ohm meter leads to the condencer. One lead to the wire and one lead to the case. There should be no reading (if there is its shorted and no good). Now carefully reverse the leads and watch the ohm meter scale. The needle should drop momentarily and return back to the infinate mark on the scale. When you touch the leads one way, you charge the condencer. When you reverse the leads the condencer discharges and causes the needle to deflect, showing the discharge. That should be the only reading you get. Make sure the meter is on zero and calibrated for the scale your using. Any readings that you get across the condencer while the leads are connected means the condencer is internally shorted or leaking. Confused yet? The points should read 0 ohms when closed and infinate when open. Hope this helps. You have to isolate each component when testing it to get accurate readings. Lewis.