9?cc about same size as 066/660
My first attempt at a homemade CSM 1"square .083 using super 250 mac
- Thread starter August76
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9?cc about same size as 066/660
Cool I'm pretty impressed with this old McCulloch super 250 at 87cc
It's got some real grunt. The 038 mag isn't up to the task on a regular basis. I imagine a 044 or ms440 isn't either and 8 won't waste my time trying this 372xp
Do it in stages, a few degrees each sharpening, so you don't waste a lot of tooth. It should start to feed better ripping.
It didn't work out well. But this was a wet log. I thought it was seasoned the saw barely finished the cut. The chain locked up some how. I took the bar off and it came loose. The motor didn't wanna re start either. Bubbles in the gas so a little vapor lock maybe. So I need to try dry wood to see if it works better. Still have potato chip grooves.
What am I doing wrong here. Maybe I need a vertical cutting mini mill
WolfMann
ArboristSite Operative
Hey August what fuel/oil ratio are you running in that saw? A lot of people like 40:1 or 32:1. It's a good idea to set the high jet a little on the rich side. Also nice to give the saw a 30-45 sec break or two while milling, maybe halfway through the log. One more thing, when you finish a big cut, be sure to let the saw idle for 2-3 minutes before shutting it down, this helps get the temps down.
WolfMann
ArboristSite Operative
I'm no expert when it comes to chain sharpening, but Im wondering if having the leading edge of your top plate at 10° and the following edge at 35° is interfering with the smoothness of your cuts. You may want to commit to bringing the whole top plate to one consistent angle, I think there's a 15° marking on those file plates, that might be worth a try. What do you have the depth gauges set at? Can usually go lower than factory recommended.
WolfMann
ArboristSite Operative
After the chain, cut smoothness is largely on the operator. Like Semo was saying, try not to seesaw the bar through the cut, I generally run the bar parallel to the log. Finding the right pressure is a big factor too, if I understand right those older saws have a lot of grunt at lower rpms which is great for milling, but I would avoid pushing too hard. If you have to push hard to make the cut its most likely on the chain. Should take a light pressure to see the saw glide through the wood. You want the four stroke to clear up, you don't want the saw to bog down. Somewhere between those two is your sweet spot. Experience is probably your best teacher here, but listen to exhaust note in relation to cutting speed, and you should be on your way.
40:1 all my saws get 40:1 ethanol free gas.
I do stop and pause. It just didn't want to cut that wet log. It was wet to the touch. I let it sit it burnt the grass from exhaust since I have it pointed down. On the Mac you can rotate it. I don't think the auto oiler is working. But it has manual over ride. I would stop and put 40w oil on the bar still issues. So chain or wood was to blame here but the terrible cuts is odd. I'm pretty steady here.
Any saw shop can order you in some .404 chain if they dont stock it.
The super 250 uses a uncommon thickness. Most convert to 3/8
Wow the damn dolkita put all my saws to shame and I got some of the best cuts so far. But still hit or miss but the difference is big
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Yeah. This saw amazes me. I bet the 7900 would be even better. Same saw different piston n jug same weight.
I need a rip guide for my skil 77 saws. Ripping with El cheapo Ryobi cordless saw sucks. Made some 2x3s for my garage shelf I'm building. It goes along where the door rolls up. They had already did one on the other side so I'm copying it.
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Yes that beak is most likely making the furrows in the flitches.
Better to sharpen WHOLE cutter, bringing the angle back a few degrees (ca. 5) with each sharpening. You can do it all at once, but then you lose a lot of metal/chain life.
I am not using that saw chain combo any more. That 404 .058 chain is way to big
Yep that's a better way to do it. AND don't forget to drop the rakers as well.
The kerf will be bigger with that, but filed right, should still give a decent flitch.
Your latest stuff looks decent. Try working that chain back to ~ 10 degrees as you sharpen it.
If the saws will do dual duty, get 1 for milling and another for crosscuts
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