My first Stihl MS440 and some questions

[TheManOfStihl]

Just got my first MS440 the other day. It's missing some parts, but that's the only way I could afford it LOL. Well, i tore it all down and the piston and cylinder look great. I'm planning to get a new set of rings and put that back together. It came to me with the flywheel nut broken off. The threaded part of the crankshaft is gone. I assume someone used an impact and went the wrong way? These don't just snap off, do they?

The crank bearings turn hard with a lot of gritty noises. I am going to get a crankshaft soon and bearings and seals to put it back together. I am going to begin searching soon for plastic covers and such that I need for it. Seems like the 044 saws are pretty much the same parts wise. Is that accurate?

When you performance guys install a cylinder without the base gasket, do you just use anaerobic sealer or something like that to seal it? Does that make enough difference in compression to get a performance increase?

I was talking to a friend at work the other day about the saw, and told him I'd like to polish the intake and exhaust ports on it, try to get some improvement in power output. He told me I should not polish the intake side, because the texture of the casting on the intake port helps to atomize the fuel, and that the turbulence created here needs to remain. He's going off of automotive knowledge. What do you think, does that sound reasonable? I've repaired saws for awhile now, but never done any porting or polishing or any of that stuff. I'd like to learn, and will read the posts on this site that I can find. In the meantime, is he feeding me a line here?

Please excuse me if answers to my questions are obvious, I have not done much with these saws performance wise, I've always cleaned carbs and replaced parts, and that's always been on 029s and smaller. But this saw I want to tear completely down and clean everything and build it right. Any tips or ideas for going back together to make this thing really scream? I had considered a big bore 52mm kit but this P/C assembly is way too good to replace.

 

[XSKIER]

Welcome to the site!

Great saw, sweet deal! Get yourself a service manual from the beg for manuals thread. It should help with your re assembly. Also, search for a build thread, it'll pretty much show all the details to a 40% gain.

 

[z71mike]

To answer a couple of the questions:

For cylinder sealant, use Yamabond, Motoseal, or equivalent.

He was right with the intake port. Don't polish it.

As far as 044 parts commonality, there were 2 crank sizes, 10 & 12mm. There was also a few different air filter mounts. Be cautious to buy the right parts for your saw.

 

[TheManOfStihl]

Thanks for the info gentlemen. I was reading about measuring the squish with solder, I think I'm going to do that. What I read was .020 - .024" with no base gasket is good for 70cc saws.

I will not polish the intake port Mike, thank you. I am planning to polish the exhaust port to a glassy finish, as smooth as I can get it. Also I have seen somewhere on here where they bevel the outer edges of the exhaust port, going to the muffler. Good idea?

I know this question has been asked before, but I never saw an answer to it in other threads, but is there a way that an average joe like me can run my serial number from this saw, or does the dealer have to do that? I guess it's more of curiosity than anything.

As stated, I'm going to reuse the OEM piston and cylinder from this saw, and order a set of Caber rings for reassembly. Hoping the compression readings are high, but we will see. I am a diesel mechanic by trade, and am wondering if any of you prefer a certain assembly lubricant on the piston and rings for assembly? The MS200T that I built awhile back as a learning experience I had used straight 2 cycle oil and made a light coating on all surfaces, and put it together. Does that sound reasonable, or is there something more preferable to use?

Also, I read on another post about MS440's that someone stated that their saw had the "more desirable non-decompression port cylinder". Why is not having a decomp more desirable? Mine does not have a decomp either.

Also read that ANY up and down play in the rod bearing at the crankshaft was grounds for replacement of the crankshaft. My crank is broken at the flywheel end and will be replaced anyway, but the rod does move up and down ever so slightly. Is the spec really NO up and down play?

Thank you for the advice gentlemen, I appreciate this site and it's member's wealth of knowledge, and willingness to teach novices like me!

 

[z71mike]

Glassy finish = yes.

Match the exhaust port dimensions on the cylinder and the muffler, where they mate up, for smooth flow. Don't worry so much about funnel shaping it or whatever.

For assembly, stick with mix oil.

The advantage to non-decomp is that decomp ports will leak over time, causing a lean condition. That's all. As long as you stay on top of it, you won't have a problem.

For the insignificant price, I'd replace the rod bearing too while you're in there.

 

[TheManOfStihl]

Thanks Mike. Definitely will replace the rod bearing. It will be part of the new crankshaft when I order it. I want to build a muscle saw here and really make her perform. What I don't want is any issues. I've used the same 029 since new, that my old man bought in the early 90's, and we have cut with it for countless hours since then, and it is just now getting low on compression. We have done nothing more than routine filter and spark plug changes, and had the carb adjusted. That's it. This saw lived and worked hard for almost 20 years now, cutting our firewood every year, and we NEVER had issues with it. I want this 440 to be the same way.

Meanwhile, my Craftsman and Poulan wielding buddies are showing me their brand new saws every few years! Ha!

 

[z71mike]

I feel ya. I still got my grandfather's 056 he bought brand new some 30 years ago. Runs great.

 

[windthrown]

All fine advice given above. Do yourself and your 440 saw a favor and pop a dual port Canuk 460 Mag muffler cover on that saw. It is a perfect fit, no mods needed other than readjusting your carb, and it will give you about a 10% gain in power. Oh, and you will want to pull the limiter tabs from the H and L screws on the carb (use a sheetrock screw), trim the tabs, and re-set them back in place. Then you can fully tune the carb richer. You will want to do that after squishing the jug anyway. With that and a DP muffler you will have more power than a stock 460.

Stihl DP 460 muffler cover PN: 1128 140 0801

Aftermarket NWP cover is said to work as well, and there are some other complete AM 460 DP mufflers on Ebay for $20.

 

[TheManOfStihl]

All fine advice given above. Do yourself and your 440 saw a favor and pop a dual port Canuk 460 Mag muffler cover on that saw. It is a perfect fit, no mods needed other than readjusting your carb, and it will give you about a 10% gain in power. Oh, and you will want to pull the limiter tabs from the H and L screws on the carb (use a sheetrock screw), trim the tabs, and re-set them back in place. Then you can fully tune the carb richer. You will want to do that after squishing the jug anyway. With that and a DP muffler you will have more power than a stock 460.

Stihl DP 460 muffler cover PN: 1128 140 0801

Aftermarket NWP cover is said to work as well, and there are some other complete AM 460 DP mufflers on Ebay for $20.

Thanks, I appreciate that advice, I will get a dual port cover! Limiters are already gone from the carb, so that's done. I'm getting excited about this build, I just gotta find the cash to get the parts. I've used my trusty 029 for years, and that's probably the largest saw I've ran. I can't wait to see what this saw can do!

 

[z71mike]

I've used my trusty 029 for years, and that's probably the largest saw I've ran. I can't wait to see what this saw can do!

6-cylinder vs 8-cylinder, my friend. Do me a favor and have someone video the look on your face for that first run. I wanna see it

 

[TheManOfStihl]

Haha I'll see if I can arrange that Mike!

For now I gotta repair some of my smaller saws and move them along to fund my project!

 

[TheManOfStihl]

I just looked closer at my carb, its a walbro hd17a and is labeled as an 1124 series. This is a carb from an 088? Did someone rig this carb on here or is that the correct carb?

Sent from my MOTWX435KT using Tapatalk 2

 

[Frank Boyer]

The size of the wrist pin is the crank size, 10mm or 12mm. Does anyone know if the 044/440 that have a 3/4 wrap handle use a high out put oiler? Is there a high out put oiler available for the 044/440's?
THANKS

 

[z71mike]

I just looked closer at my carb, its a walbro hd17a and is labeled as an 1124 series. This is a carb from an 088? Did someone rig this carb on here or is that the correct carb?

Sent from my MOTWX435KT using Tapatalk 2

That's the right carb.

 

[TheManOfStihl]

Ok. I wasn't sure due to the 1124 on the compensator piece. Thought I might have to find a carb too!

 

[redfin]

6-cylinder vs 8-cylinder, my friend. Do me a favor and have someone video the look on your face for that first run. I wanna see it

More like a boosted v8. I can assure you if that saw is running correctly you may never pick up the 029 again.

While your in there bump the timing up at tad by shaving off the right side of the flywheel key. I took .020" off my 044, there is a noticable increase in throttle responce and rpm in the cut.

 

[TheManOfStihl]

While your in there bump the timing up at tad by shaving off the right side of the flywheel key. I took .020" off my 044, there is a noticable increase in throttle responce and rpm in the cut.

Does that give you kickback when starting, from advancing the timing? Are there any adverse effects at the low end of the RPM range? I realize you cut wide open, and that's where the timing advance helps, but just wondering about side effects?

 

[Philip Wheelock]

Does that give you kickback when starting, from advancing the timing? ...

Both of my stock MS440's can get feisty when starting; you might hold off on advancing the timing on yours until you run it for awhile.

 

[redfin]

Does that give you kickback when starting, from advancing the timing? Are there any adverse effects at the low end of the RPM range? I realize you cut wide open, and that's where the timing advance helps, but just wondering about side effects?

I have not noticed any difference in starting this saw.

 

[spindrift7mm]

I'll 2nd the hold off on the timing change, my early MS440 non decomp will kick the snot outta ya if you get lazy. We've had the kick back talk before here on these 044/440 and never came to an answer. I build a lot of 066/660 timber saws,not stock and none of them kick like that old stock 440 ! It's just about the last stock saw I have and is the most dependable solid saw I just don't know if I'll ever tear into it, can't remember the last time I even put a fuel filter in. Good saw ! Ken