My MS251 C is burning through chains like nothing

[Alder]

I have tried everything. I cleaned the clutch cover. I checked the oiler port and it's pristene. I cleaned and dressed both of my bars and cleaned out the oiler holes. I ordered new chain. I checked the manual many times too see what that I am doing wrong. I am at a loss for words here. I don't think that my poor little chain on my little eighteen inch bar is getting any oil. I have ruined two chains and singed two more. I ordered one of those bar nut clutch covers last night from Amazon. The easy comfort model is great at first but the extra parts cause a lot of problems in the long run. I should have my head examined for buying a star sprocked yard homeowner saw too be a backup helper saw on a tree farm. This has been a great saw for three years but it's an occasional use saw and I use it too much.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Alder

 

[cookies]

remove the clutch cover and bar then start the saw and bring up the rpms and see if oil is being delivered to the bar mount plate to the point it comes out and steadily drips at medium to high engine rpms.

 

[Alder]

remove the clutch cover and bar then start the saw and bring up the rpms and see if oil is being delivered to the bar mount plate to the point it comes out and steadily drips at medium to high engine rpms.

I will do this tomorrow morning.

 

[HarleyT]

Put up a pic of your sprocket, as well as one of the ruined chains.

 

[Alder]

Put up a pic of your sprocket, as well as one of the ruined chains.

I will try to do this at a later time.

 

[Okie]

You can review on-line how to check a chainsaw bar/chain to see if it's oiling.

A quick test is too hold the tip of the bar within about 3 inches of a white background object or the side of your truck (middle of the drivers side door is a good place to test) and piss rev the saw and watch for oil specks.

No need in ruining chains and bars cutting wood as a test of the saw's oiler.

 

[Alder]

Put up a pic of your sprocket, as well as one of the ruined chains.

Put up a pic of your sprocket, as well as one of the ruined chains.

Here is some dirty, filthy chainsaw shots for ya. It's a nice day in Oregon as you can see.

 

[Alder]

You can review on-line how to check a chainsaw bar/chain to see if it's oiling.

A quick test is too hold the tip of the bar within about 3 inches of a white background object or the side of your truck (middle of the drivers side door is a good place to test) and piss rev the saw and watch for oil specks.

No need in ruining chains and bars cutting wood as a test of the saw's oiler.

Thank you. I will do this.

 

[Wood Doctor]

Another possible cause. Your bar oil is worthless or the pump cannot get that oil through to the oiler port. See Cookies' post #2.

 

[HarleyT]

That is one of the ruined chains?

 

[dwafl3]

I had the 231 it's was the same piece of sh... Changed the oil pump, used thiner oil and that saw it's built in a way that it doesn't uses to much oil, almost half tank of oil per tank of gas, especially with pine or wood that produces more dust.

 

[grizz55chev]

That is one of the ruined chains?

I can't see anything wrong with his chain, the sprocket shows wear, but usable. There's a lot of life left in the chain in my opinion.

 

[Philbert]

Follow the path of the oil from the fill cap. Clogged filter? Cracked / broken tube? Is the oiler drive gear making contact with the oiler pump?

Been a while, and mostly worked with MS 250’s. But follow the full path from filler cap through the oil hole in the bar.

Philbert

 

[trains]

Is the bar pad square, it looks as if near the top where the rubber oiler bit (round) where it meets the oil slot/ gallery, is not making full contact with the bar, and leaking out oil from the top and back part of where the oil comes out, instead of the oil going to the bar, its leaking there, up and out the bar, not into the oiler hole of the bar.
put a straight edge along the bar pad, and see if its rounded over there, has the saw been leaned on, wiggled side to side in the cut etc when stuck, its only plastic.

not the first time I have removed the bar stud and filed down the bar pad square again so the bar laid flat and would oil correctly.

 

[user 122190]

Need a closer look at the chain. From what I can see, I don't see the problem.

 

[Brushswamper523]

What happened with the oil test @cookies suggested?

 

[dboyd351]

Can also try thinning bar oil with kerosene or diesel at 3:1 bar oil to kerosene. If the lines are clogged should help clear them out.

 

[stihltech]

Inquiring minds need to know. Is the oil coming out of the port to the bar?

 

[cscltd]

You have 3/8 low profile picco chain and I think a 3/8 low profile bar (but can’t read bar numbers from pic) on a .325 sprocket on power head.
that is the problem, they are mismatchEd
oiler is probably fine From looking at chain. It would dry and crusty if oiler was issue.

 

[Okie]

You have 3/8 low profile picco chain and I think a 3/8 low profile bar (but can’t read bar numbers from pic) on a .325 sprocket on power head.
that is the problem, they are mismatchEd
oiler is probably fine From looking at chain. It would dry and crusty if oiler was issue.

If you have been doing this that cscltd mentions you most likely have damaged both your sprocket and the roller tip on your bar. You might consider taking your saw to a Chainsaw shop so as they can look at the chain/bar and sprocket to see if they are mis-matched and what damage has been done.

You might consider getting yourself a Oregon 556418 measuring tool like this one at this link, but it does NOT indicate the difference in the 3/8 pitch Low Pro (LP) or also called Picco chains and the regular 3/8 pitch chains. (the difference is in the slight shape of the drive link (DL) tangs)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1239273318...005g8adS37vrDRJJxsHawu/GAzCP|tkp:BFBM8pyz0Mpg