My New Saw - 044 #2 - I Think I Got Lucky

[MustangMike]

Sounds like a really nice saw. I heard the early 044s may have slightly higher compression, which the base delete more than compensates for.

I was thinking of doing that, but w/o C/R, I decided not to do that.

R U also running an HD-2 filter? I think the old 3 layer filters on the old 044s were overly restrictive.

That super must also be real nice. My cousin used a regular 038 for years, and cut more firewood with it than most people ever will.

 

[MuskokaSplitter]

Will its got the hd filter setup whats the hd2?. and I plugged the decomp hole. That way I could put a flat top cover on it.

 

[MustangMike]

I believe the newer HD-2 filter may be even less restrictive, but I'm not positive. You may want to give it a try and see what happens. It does not need a pre filter, and the wood chips just tap out. Just make sure your saw does not run too lean. The filter actually made a bigger difference than the dual port on my 044, but it had an old 3 layer filter, not the HD.

 

[blsnelling]

Maybe you got lucky and got a real good oiler

 

[Trx250r180]

C A D

 

[MustangMike]

Yep, but I do think it was a nice find!

 

[Toyboy]

Could you please explain the 10 mm Stihl 044 designation. I've not heard that term or what makes them special.

 

[MustangMike]

Could you please explain the 10 mm Stihl 044 designation. I've not heard that term or what makes them special.

The 10 mm refers to the wrist pin size, the subsequent ones are 12 mm, which is supposed to be stronger. However, the 10 mm seem to hold up just fine.

The old 10 mm saws had different cylinders (the cylinder has changed several times over the years and may not correspond exactly with the wrist pin change) and different flywheels. Many think the older cylinders had a bit more compression and possibly better porting, others disagree. All I can tell you is that my 10 mm 044 runs very strong for a non-ported saw, and others who have run it (including at the GTG) concur with that assessment. In fact, my 044 seems to run just as strong as my 046, which is why that saw is out getting ported.

My personal opinion, the 12 mm saws performance will partly depend on what cylinder it came with, while the 10 mm saws were consistently strong (note: this statement is just my opinion). The change over from 10 to 12 mm occurred in 1993.

There is no absolute way to determine if a saw is a 10 mm w/o ripping it down, but the best way is to go by the SN (a few 10 mms were produced after the quoted SN change). If you have an original saw with a low SN, it is a 10 mm saw.

As a result, many people seek out the 10 mm saws.

Hope that answers your question.

 

[Trx250r180]

Could you please explain the 10 mm Stihl 044 designation. I've not heard that term or what makes them special.

The piston pin measures 10mm ,the later 044 and ms440 measure 12mm on the pin ,the early ks branded 10mm jugs seemed to have more aggressive port timing ,so they sounded a little angrier and could lean a little harder on them than the newer saws .



Or can add what Mike said

 

[MustangMike]

Thanks Brian, most of what I know about them I have learned from Brian and others on AS. Brian has had many of these saws and has posted pictures of the various jugs in the past. He may be the most knowledgeable person on this site regarding 044/440s, and converting them to big bores.

 

[Spectre468]

Sounds like a great score!

 

[Toyboy]

Thanks for helping me out with that guys.

 

[redfin]

Thanks Brian, most of what I know about them I have learned from Brian and others on AS. Brian has had many of these saws and has posted pictures of the various jugs in the past. He may be the most knowledgeable person on this site regarding 044/440s, and converting them to big bores.

Brian's hybrid is one that pushed me to do mine.

 

[RiverRat2]

The 10 mm refers to the wrist pin size, the subsequent ones are 12 mm, which is supposed to be stronger. However, the 10 mm seem to hold up just fine.

My personal opinion, the 12 mm saws performance will partly depend on what cylinder it came with, while the 10 mm saws were consistently strong (note: this statement is just my opinion). The change over from 10 to 12 mm occurred in 1993.

As a result, many people seek out the 10 mm saws.

I just checked mine I have one that is KS and one is a MAHLE,,,, both are the angle finned pre-decompression valve versions,,,,

 

[MustangMike]

Any difference in how they run? Also, do you care to share the first 4 or so digits of the SN that correspond to them?

 

[Spectre468]

Quick question Mike. As you know, I have and really enjoy my MS 362C, but I'm feeling the need for a bigger saw for bigger wood. I have been debating between the 461R and the 661R. I think you really like the 44/46 series saws. My concern is that it's not that big a jump up from the 362, on paper, and I may be better served with the 661. I did one cut on a small piece of pine with an 044 Magnum close to 20 years ago, so I have no point of reference for comparison. Brad suggested that, even stock, I would be impressed with the 461, even when compared to the 661. Your thoughts?

 

[MustangMike]

The 441 will give a very noticeable difference in performance over the 362 (it has almost 20% more displacement) and the 461 is a further step up from that (29.7% more displacement), at the same wt. My 044 with the dp muff & HD-2 filter is a good deal stronger than the 362 in big wood. With almost 30% more displacement, you will really notice the difference. You should also ask Keith, he has both those saws (362 & 461).

I'm sure the 661 is an awesome saw, the question is will it really fit your needs. I've run ported 660s, and they are awesome, but they are also kind of heavy. After running a ported 460, I decided to get my 046 ported. The power is tremendous, and it is a lot less wt. To see them in action go to youtube and search Smittybilt 460.

I guess it depends on what you plan to cut and what size bar you will use, and how much saw you care to lift. Sometimes, even when using the big saws, I am in awkward settings, where less wt is appreciated.

What size bar do you plan to run, and what size wood do you plan on cutting? If you are not going over a 28" bar, I think I would stick with the 461. Over that, I would consider the 661. I think you will find the 461 useful in a lot more circumstances, and not much it can not handle.

That's my opinion.

 

[Spectre468]

Yes, 28" bar was my thought. Yesterday, I was bucking a trunk that was running 28-36" across with my 20" bar, coming in from both sides. The 362 did it, but seemed like I would have been better off with a bigger, more powerful saw (not necessarily a bigger bar, but I'm sure that would have helped, too). I have one more tree at that site that is about the same size, perhaps a wee bit smaller. Occasionally, I do get into pretty big Pondos where the 28" bar would be helpful, but they are rare for me. The 661 may be a bit more than I need, but I'm not sure if the 461 is enough. Sounds like it could be. Do they have DP muffs for it?

 

[Spectre468]

Just saw the video. Looks like a keeper!

 

[MustangMike]

Ran 044#2 in wood for the first time yesterday, actually, MechanicMatt mostly ran it. I told him to try it out and he just kept using it.

It ran very well, and I think that wide tip 24" bar helps. I did not get the dual port muff cover for it yet, but MechanicMatt told me "leave it just the way it is, it cuts just fine". It did run nice, but I will see if the dual port helps it run even stronger.

It was just a brief cutting adventure, and I did not even fire up 044#1 to compare them, but so far I am very happy with my new purchase.

The saw runs great, and that wide tipped 24" bar is just an unexpected bonus.