Need a head for a 5.9 Cummins

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Any body know where I can find a good used head for a 1999 F800 with a 5.9 Cummins? Cast/head # is 3943627. My mechanic tells me it's the same head as on a dodge cummins but it's ported bigger...?
 
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Call and check with these guys. Puredieselpower.com and mumaudiesel.com. Either one of them will be able to help you out.
 
give him a call http://stores.ebay.com/Redlinear?_rdc=1 think hes wrong about the port sizes, all that matters is tHAT ITS A 24V port sizes r the same. u might be runnen a bigger turbo with a t4 flange but all thats on the exhaust manifold which is mounted to the head.
 
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I found a couple possibilities. I am not having much luck with help on the cummins forum though and am hoping someone on here can answer a couple questions for me.

The cast number on my truck's head is 3943627. I found a replacement head off of a 99 dodge that has the same cast number on it but with a "-03" at the end of it. Anybody know what the "-03" is for?

The head also has "2.45" above the cast number and a paper sticker with 3945624 below it so not sure what the heck all these numbers mean.

Are these heads compatible? The price is $700.

I also found a rebuilt head guaranteed for 1 yr for $1800. Is it worth the risk to try the used head vs going with a rebuilt one? The used head came off of a block that was run out of oil but the head is supposed to be in good shape.

Thanks.

Thanks.
 
I found a couple possibilities. I am not having much luck with help on the cummins forum though and am hoping someone on here can answer a couple questions for me.

The cast number on my truck's head is 3943627. I found a replacement head off of a 99 dodge that has the same cast number on it but with a "-03" at the end of it. Anybody know what the "-03" is for?

The head also has "2.45" above the cast number and a paper sticker with 3945624 below it so not sure what the heck all these numbers mean.

Are these heads compatible? The price is $700.

I also found a rebuilt head guaranteed for 1 yr for $1800. Is it worth the risk to try the used head vs going with a rebuilt one? The used head came off of a block that was run out of oil but the head is supposed to be in good shape.

Thanks.

Thanks.

The shop gave me an engine # of 45782878 if that helps clarify what head to use on it.
 
as i said earlier, all that matters is a 24v head, u could go from 98.5-02 they all used the same 24v head, there might have been upgrades to the valve seats and valve metal, but the porting and valve sizes r the same, regardles if the head came from an h.o or s.o. 24v engine, if u call a cummins distrib. give them your esn and the one from the donor u will find the correct part number......if u cant get your esn, look for a cpl#, ive been working on and own two cummins for years. my only reccomendation would be for u to deck the head and use a marine head gasket, its stout. thats a little pricey for a reman, i wouldn't hesitate on the other one, just have it decked and checked out.


http://truckpartsinventory.com/info.aspx?part=297751&p=3&val=c91_m7&o=30&d=d
 
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as i said earlier, all that matters is a 24v head, u could go from 98.5-02 they all used the same 24v head, there might have been upgrades to the valve seats and valve metal, but the porting and valve sizes r the same, regardles if the head came from an h.o or s.o. 24v engine, if u call a cummins distrib. give them your esn and the one from the donor u will find the correct part number......if u cant get your esn, look for a cpl#, ive been working on and own two cummins for years. my only reccomendation would be for u to deck the head and use a marine head gasket, its stout. thats a little pricey for a reman, i wouldn't hesitate on the other one, just have it decked and checked out.


http://truckpartsinventory.com/info.aspx?part=297751&p=3&val=c91_m7&o=30&d=d

forgive my mechanical cluelessness. When you say to have a head "decked", what does that mean?

I ended up finding an even cheaper head for $400 plus shipping. Came off of a 99 dodge. Hope it works out. Should get it today or tomorrow. Guy said he'd guarantee that it's in good shape or I can return it. Was just a couple hundred miles from me.
 
put straight edged on it and use a feeler guage under the straight edge, I dont know what spec is for the head but if theres more then .020 gap u need to have the surface of the head machined flat and use the marine head gasket its thicker and more durable. If the engine is a keeper with low miles and in good shape, id send the head out either way. id also be looking into a new set of injectors since its all apart. What happened to the original head ? did it crack or warp? if so was crack near #6 cylinder cause theres a way of preventing it from happening again.
http://www.competitiondiesel.com/forums/showthread.php?t=40090
http://www.competitiondiesel.com/forums/showthread.php?t=51103&highlight=coolant+bypass
http://www.competitiondiesel.com/forums/showthread.php?t=33430
 
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id also be putting in new head bolts. if u blew your hread gasket the old ones r stretched. I know u prob. didnt plan on spending quite so much on a simple head job, but at the very least new head bolts r a must.


What ever u do if u machine the head .010 u need to install .010 thicker injector washers, if u use .020 marine gasket u need to install .020 thinner injector washers,,,,,this keeps the injector spray angle correctly postioned in the piston bowl. If u take off .020 off the head and put on .020 marine gasket u can
use stock size injector washers, either way id put in a new set of injector washers anyway, their cheap insurance.
 
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put straight edged on it and use a feeler guage under the straight edge, I dont know what spec is for the head but if theres more then .020 gap u need to have the surface of the head machined flat and use the marine head gasket its thicker and more durable. If the engine is a keeper with low miles and in good shape, id send the head out either way. id also be looking into a new set of injectors since its all apart. What happened to the original head ? did it crack or warp? if so was crack near #6 cylinder cause theres a way of preventing it from happening again.
http://www.competitiondiesel.com/forums/showthread.php?t=40090
http://www.competitiondiesel.com/forums/showthread.php?t=51103&highlight=coolant+bypass
http://www.competitiondiesel.com/forums/showthread.php?t=33430

I'll have to check on where the crack was. The leak was on the back of the engine (towards cab) so I assume that's were the crack was. If that's the location of the #6 cylinder, what's the preventative measure?
 
u need to install a coolant bypass hose like in the above links, the flow to #6 is poor and your boiling the coolant when pulling a heavy load, thats why u cracked the head, it will happen again. U might also have #5 and or 6 injector slightly overfueling, so at the very least have the injectors cleaned and flow tested, to me id never spend the money on that, id just buy new injectors from http://pensacoladiesel.com/dodge-cummins/injectors-and-performance-parts.html reputable, no core return, and cheapest your gonna find for 24v isb injectors.

like i said earlier u dont want to go thru this again, if the truck will be a keeper it pays to get the head checked, new head bolts/studs
gasket and new injectors with new washers. make sure your cross over tubes r reusable too or youll need to order those too.
 
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thanks, mini14 for all the detailed info. I forwarded this thread to my mechanic who said he'd take a look at your comments.
 

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